Cutting Melamine Chip Free Strategy

[webpp]

Hello all,

I know this board has been over this problem some time ago. However, I need a refresher on the issue and perhaps people also have come up with new ideas to cut melamine chip free. I have 2 ideas I want to share and need your opinion on them.

IDEA #1

Use good grade melamine (TFL) such are Egger or Uniboard, etc and not the cheap stuff sold at the big box store.

Using the TS-75 and the Seneca Parallel Guide, score the melamine 3mm on one side pulling the saw backward then flip the board over and score the second side 3mm pulling the saw backward using the parallel guide, and finally cut the entire depth. Will this give chip-free cut on both sides of the melamine? Will the cut be accurate on both sides since we are using the parallel guide?

IDEA #2

Cut the melamine 2mm more than needed using the TS-75 without scoring. Then clamp a straight guide such as the Woodpecker Story Stick and using a straight router bit with bearing guide and the OF1400 to make the final cut. I know it’s a 2 step process, but will this result in a chip-free cut on melamine?

Your opinion and thoughts are highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

[#Tee]

I normally use the highest tpi blade for cleaner cuts, run a 2mm backward cut like you said or use some tape on the cut. Never do a full cut on 3/4 thick boards.

 

[grobkuschelig]

I ALWAYS tape the cuts, if I need good quality.
Might be superstition, but I tell myself it helps.

I also bought the melamine/chipboard blade for my TS55 and was astonished by it’s cut quality.
I did NOT score. Just cut straight through on 19mm melamine MDF.
Finish was good enough for me.

I always fear of making a „ding“ into one of the edges with the second cut by slightly holding the saw the wrong way. [emoji33]

 

[lwoirhaye]

IDEA #1

Use good grade melamine (TFL) such are Egger or Uniboard, etc and not the cheap stuff sold at the big box store.

Using the TS-75 and the Seneca Parallel Guide, score the melamine 3mm on one side pulling the saw backward then flip the board over and score the second side 3mm pulling the saw backward using the parallel guide, and finally cut the entire depth. Will this give chip-free cut on both sides of the melamine? Will the cut be accurate on both sides since we are using the parallel guide?

Melamine is not prone to chipping on the opposite site.  I'm not saying it cannot ever happen but I do think scoring the down side is overkill.  Use a blade rated for melamine.  Some give quite good cuts with no scoring when they are very sharp.  Try scoring and/or putting painters tape on the cut line too.  See what works for you.

 

[Sparktrician]

We always used a sliding table saw with a scoring blade when I worked in the semi-custom closet industry because of the cleanliness of the cut quality. 

 

[Holmz]

I highlighted the important point.

Hello all,

I know this board has been over this problem some time ago. However, I need a refresher on the issue and perhaps people also have come up with new ideas to cut melamine chip free. I have 2 ideas I want to share and need your opinion on them.

IDEA #1

Use good grade melamine (TFL) such are Egger or Uniboard, etc and not the cheap stuff sold at the big box store.

Using the TS-75 and the Seneca Parallel Guide, score the melamine 3mm on one side pulling the saw backward then flip the board over and score the second side 3mm pulling the saw backward using the parallel guide, and finally cut the entire depth. Will this give chip-free cut on both sides of the melamine? Will the cut be accurate on both sides since we are using the parallel guide?

IDEA #2

Cut the melamine 2mm more than needed using the TS-75 without scoring. Then clamp a straight guide such as the Woodpecker Story Stick and using a straight router bit with bearing guide and the OF1400 to make the final cut. I know it’s a 2 step process, but will this result in a chip-free cut on melamine?

Your opinion and thoughts are highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

The same Concepts should apply when using a deWalt or any other saw, it is mostly about the blade, unless the saw also scores.
(plenty of teeth are better then fewer.)

Even using my rainbows&unicorns MT55 with the scoring function the cheap stuff will chip, and the good stuff does not need scoring. The TS75 also has no special magical powers to overcome cheap boards.

Whether adhesive tape is worth using requires trying it to see if it helps. Might be faster(cheaper) to use better boards.

 

[JBag09]

I just cut some a few weeks ago for a project I did at work. We ordered a few sheets of the GOOD melamine. I think it was Uniboard actually.  Now we do nothing as far as cabinetry at my employer, we have a panel saw for cutting the sheet goods we use. However it isn't big enough for the 10' sheets we ordered. So I took my TS55 in to do some rip cuts. I used a 28 tooth blade and stacked 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
When I cut the shelves and dividers I used the panel saw with a scoring blade, 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
So my take is it has more to do with the material than anything else.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Michael Kellough]

I just cut some a few weeks ago for a project I did at work. We ordered a few sheets of the GOOD melamine. I think it was Uniboard actually.  Now we do nothing as far as cabinetry at my employer, we have a panel saw for cutting the sheet goods we use. However it isn't big enough for the 10' sheets we ordered. So I took my TS55 in to do some rip cuts. I used a 28 tooth blade and stacked 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
When I cut the shelves and dividers I used the panel saw with a scoring blade, 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
So my take is it has more to do with the material than anything else.

Do you mean 48 tooth blade?

 

[Sparktrician]

So my take is it has more to do with the material than anything else.

Material used is a significant factor, but it also requires a VERY sharp blade that has been trued to remove as much runout as possible.  We had our blades sharpened and trued every week without fail. 

 

[JBag09]

I just cut some a few weeks ago for a project I did at work. We ordered a few sheets of the GOOD melamine. I think it was Uniboard actually.  Now we do nothing as far as cabinetry at my employer, we have a panel saw for cutting the sheet goods we use. However it isn't big enough for the 10' sheets we ordered. So I took my TS55 in to do some rip cuts. I used a 28 tooth blade and stacked 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
When I cut the shelves and dividers I used the panel saw with a scoring blade, 2 sheets and had zero chipout.
So my take is it has more to do with the material than anything else.

Do you mean 48 tooth blade?

No, it was a 28 tooth blade

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JBag09]

So my take is it has more to do with the material than anything else.

Material used is a significant factor, but it also requires a VERY sharp blade that has been trued to remove as much runout as possible.  We had our blades sharpened and trued every week without fail.

That you are correct about sharp blades. I am a huge believer is finding a good company to service our tooling at work. And I also have them service my own tooling.  Much cheaper than buying new blades and router bits constantly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ear3]

I've had excellent results using the laminate blade for the TS75 (they also make one for the TS55), though I've only ever worked with decent quality melamine:https://www.festoolproducts.com/fes...-blade-for-ts-75-plunge-cut-saw-60-tooth.html

No scoring was needed, nor worries about chipout on the underside.

You can cut melamine with a sharp standard blade a few times with good results, but it will start to dull the blade pretty quickly in my experience. 

 

[Holmz]

I've had excellent results using the laminate blade for the TS75 (they also make one for the TS55), though I've only ever worked with decent quality melamine:
...

And I used the best saw currently on the market, with a scoring function, and using a special melamine blade... and on cheap melamine it is still pretty ordinary looking result...
And on good stuff I do not need to score it.

So I conclude it is primarily more about the material than the scoring or blade.
(But those both help)
Basically the magical saws help, but a sow's cannot easily become a silk purse... the magic is just not that strong.

 

[Naildrivingman]

I do not cut a lot of melamine, but when I do, I use higher quality goods and I tape both sides.  No scoring cut and the cut is damn good.  A sharp/laminate grade blade is always used as well.

 

[jacko9]

I use Forrest DURALINE HI-A/T blades for sheet goods only and keep them sharp.  Silvers Mill has a very good supply of Forrest products;
https://www.sliversmill.com/category_6_Duraline_Hi_AT.html

Jack