sprior said:
Last weekend I bought the TS 55 EQ with the original justification of ripping and crosscutting pieces of plywood which were too big for my contractor sized table saw. My task for today is to rip some shelves from a piece of plywood, all the same width and while I can do it with the table saw I'd rather use the new toy. With the table saw I'd just set the fence to the right width and send the plywood through, but probably with some minor issues with the wood steering away from the fence. It appears that with the Festool saw you've got to measure/mark the width for a piece, put the guide rail in place, make the cut, then start measuring again. Is there a faster way that avoids measuring each piece individually? I don't have the parallel guide.
[welcome] to The FOG, Sprior,
Before Festool introduced the Parallel Guide Set with Extensions, I routinely needed to turn sheets of plywood into shelves of identical width using a TS55 and a Guide Rail. Although I now own a large shop with a Pressure Beam Saw, I still use my trusted method when the shelves need to be beveled.
Since normally plywood shelves are made with the veneer grain running the long way, I start breaking down the sheet of plywood by carefully cross-cutting the sheet into pieces with parallel cut sides the length of the finished shelves.
Step 2 is to use a sacrificial surface set at a convenient working height. At the end where I want to work I fasten a piece of scrap the same thickness as the shelves about the width of the shelves. Along the start end of the cut I fasten a long 4" wide piece of scrap at an exact right angle to the other piece of scrap but separated from the end scrap by just over the width of the shelves. At the far side or end of the cut I fasten still another long 4" wide piece of scrap, also separated from the end piece by just over the width of the shelves, at an exact right angle to the end scrap, but far enough from the start edge scrap the blank shelf plywood slides freely.
Step 3 is to place a shelf blank sheet on the surface, snug to the start end scrap. Measure from the end scrap the width of the shelves, plus 2.2mm to allow for the kerf of the TS55 saw blade. Mark that at on both the start and finish end pieces of scrap. That mark is where the splinter guard of the guide rail needs to be. Clamp the guide rail so it stays on that mark.
Step 4 is to fasten a small scrap of 12mm material to the start and finish long pieces of scrap snug to the far side of the rail away from the splinter guard.
The way I use this fixture is to position a fresh shelf blank snug against the start scrap about 12mm beyond the rail's splinter guard. I make a clean-up cut of that factory edge of the blank. Then I move the blank's clean edge snug against the end scrap. From then on I hold the rail's far side against the small blocks make a cut and remove the new shelf. Then I keep doing the same thing until the remaining shelf blank is too narrow to support the guide rail.
I solve that issue by using either the next blank or a finished shelf to support the rail and at the same time hold the last bit of blank snug against the end stop.
Probably it has taken me longer to explain this fixture and method as it does to finish a batch of shelves. Long before I bought Festools I would use either double-headed nails or dry wall screws to temporarily fasten cleats and stops to my sacrificial surface, I continue to do so even when using guide rails, so clamps do not get in the way of using the TS55. Each time I set up this sort of fixture I place the end scrap a different distance from the end of the sacrificial surface, so the groove from the saw blade is not in the same place.