cutting out sinks & hobs

[ifit]

Whats your prefered method & why

TS55 or carvex

I have always used my TS55 but i only own a makita jigsaw which does not cut very square

 

[adsjoin]

Since discovering Festool and especially the ts55, I wouldn't entertain cutting hobs,sinks out with anything else other than the ts, as you will know the cuts are true and straight. I can remember how many jigsaw blades that were dulled on each cut out! And never truly straight cuts. NO BRAINER for me

 

[SMJoinery]

I always use my carvex..cuts are nice and straight, plumb and can start the cut without a hole.  [scared]
Also my TS55 can't cut those round sinks out without burning the top.  [tongue]

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

TS 55 for me as well.

I use a Gecko on the rail just to hold it, mainly for peace of mind. Kick back stop is a must.
Sometimes, the Riving knife can jam as the plunge is made, but it depends on the diameter of the holes that have needed to be drilled in the corners first.

Tim.

 

[ifit]

Do you do your cutouts before fitting or after?

I do them after fitting 90% of the time due to strength of the top, fitting on my own, also you need to put the top on to mark out causing double lifting - I try to be as efficient as possible

The downside is you cant see the line very well on the back edge &  the ts55 does not go deep enough to go through the rail

 

[ifit]

TS 55 for me as well.

I use a Gecko on the rail just to hold it, mainly for peace of mind. Kick back stop is a must.
Sometimes, the Riving knife can jam as the plunge is made, but it depends on the diameter of the holes that have needed to be drilled in the corners first.

Tim.

I never clamp my rail  and dont use a kickback stop, I push down on the base plate of the saw with my thumb to control kickback, I never drill the corners either

 

[adsjoin]

Do you do your cutouts before fitting or after?

I do them after fitting 90% of the time due to strength of the top, fitting on my own, also you need to put the top on to mark out causing double lifting - I try to be as efficient as possible

The downside is you cant see the line very well on the back edge &  the ts55 does not go deep enough to go through the rail

always before the tops go in, and sometimes the sink in before depending on where the sink clips are located. Unless it's a Franke sink with the pressure clips, love those sinks. I do have someone with me to lift the tops in though, so it's more manageable.

 

[Deansocial]

I use my ts. Turn unit rail so its vertical to maintain strength and dont cut it. Try and fit the sink then lift it in

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

TS 55 for me as well.

I use a Gecko on the rail just to hold it, mainly for peace of mind. Kick back stop is a must.
Sometimes, the Riving knife can jam as the plunge is made, but it depends on the diameter of the holes that have needed to be drilled in the corners first.

Tim.

I never clamp my rail  and dont use a kickback stop, I push down on the base plate of the saw with my thumb to control kickback, I never drill the corners either

So, I assume you finish the corners with a jigsaw after you have done the plunge cuts......?????

I ALWAYS do my cut-outs prior to the installation of the tops. I have lost count of how many kitchens I've ripped out that have had the rails and gables cut up where the tops have been cut-out in situ. It is a bodge IMO..!!!!!

What do you do if the cut-out HAS to have radiused corners, for example, solid Surface tops?

Personally,  i find 4 holes drilled of a diameter to suit the hob or sink are simple to do.

The Gecko is useful for so many things, especially long cuts on solid surface material where you need 100% accurate joins. I use 2 on island top fabrication when using a 3mtr rail. Perfect butt joints every time.

The island top in my picture on the LHS here was cut in this way!

Tim.

 

[ifit]

So, I assume you finish the corners with a jigsaw after you have done the plunge cuts......Huh???

I ALWAYS do my cut-outs prior to the installation of the tops. I have lost count of how many kitchens I've ripped out that have had the rails and gables cut up where the tops have been cut-out in situ. It is a bodge IMO..!!!!!

What do you do if the cut-out HAS to have radiused corners, for example, solid Surface tops?

Personally,  i find 4 holes drilled of a diameter to suit the hob or sink are simple to do.

The Gecko is useful for so many things, especially long cuts on solid surface material where you need 100% accurate joins. I use 2 on island top fabrication when using a 3mtr rail. Perfect butt joints every time.

The island top in my picture on the LHS here was cut in this way!

Tim.

Tim
Yes I jigsaw or multitool the corners, I don't fancy trying to lift a 3-4m top in on my own with a cutout in the middle, I do commercial jobs and very often the plumber will be supplying the sink so it may not be onsite when i'm fitting the kitchen and they want the tops on so the tiler can get his work done, its not perfect but its the way it is and wont be seen.
remember Chippendale never used to plane the boards on the back of his cabinets

I have looked at the geko in the past but never really had an issue with my rails moving to be honest but if you have one then it does give you peace of mind I suppose

 

[jonny round boy]

I think each job is different, and I use a variety of methods. Sometimes I make cut-outs with the jigsaw, though personally I prefer to use the TS55 & finish the corners with a jigsaw or a handsaw. I generally drill all 4 corners first - even on laminates I always leave a radius, never cut the corners dead square! Occasionally, I even do cut-outs with a router (even for some inset sinks) if it's one I already have a template for.

If I'm using the TS55, I always use a backstop. Sure, 90+% of the time you can do it without, but occasionally it can and will kick back. I learnt that many years ago on a solid timber worktop, when the blade caught, jumped off the rail, and ran backwards across the top before I could do anything about it. That cost me around £300 for a new 4m length of worktop, plus a full day's delay whilst the replacement was delivered.

Sometimes they're done before installing, but more often than not in situ. I disagree with Tim that it's a bodge job, if it's done right.

As Deansocial says, on my jobs I generally fit the front rail vertically so it doesn't get in the way at all. Even if it's a full-height door I think it looks fine as it hides a lot of the sink, and on drawerline jobs it means you can screw through the rail to fix the dummy drawerfront in place (before you fit the sink).

 

[HowardH]

I would love to see someone do a video on how do this with a TS55.  I never knew it could cut a circle! Especially a tight radius. How's that done? 

 

[jimbouk]

I use whatever is nearest and saves me getting in out the van. More often than not jigsaw. Also depends on the surface. Corian always ts55 and finish with router.

 

[joiner1970]

As Deansocial says, on my jobs I generally fit the front rail vertically so it doesn't get in the way at all. Even if it's a full-height door I think it looks fine as it hides a lot of the sink, and on drawerline jobs it means you can screw through the rail to fix the dummy drawerfront in place (before you fit the sink).

Great idea never thought of doing that rather than cutting through it.

 

[Caly]

HowardH

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Re: cutting out sinks & hobs
« Reply #11 on: Today at 04:11 PM »
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I would love to see someone do a video on how do this with a TS55.  I never knew it could cut a circle! Especially a tight radius. How's that done?

Fastool do a curved blade for the ts55.........just percyvere with it, tie a piece of string to a centre point and the ts55 and hey presto............

 

[festyrob]

I 100% use my ts55 with the 800 and 1400 rail and finish my corners with my trion jigsaw. I always cut out after installation also the hob i set my saw to 44mm for 38mm worktops and its perfect. As it goes i have one to do tommorow i also have my midi extractor

 

[ifit]

festyrob

What are your reasons for doing it after install and how do you deal with the rails?

 

[festyrob]

What do you mean by how do u deal with the rails?? I do it after the install as i find it much easier and less chance of breaking weak worktop plus i work alone so sometimes lifting 3m+ with a sink cut out in half way thru alone is too risky.

 

[ifit]

I mean your ts cuts through the worktop but then you have got the rails of the cabinet to cut through and the worktop is in the way
I use 110mm jigsaw blades, others have said they turn the rail round
some kitchens require the back rail to be cut as well

 

[Deansocial]

Only normally a back rail in cheap crap. Solid back units dont have 1