Cutting through nails with TS 55

[mu]

hi,
I need to plunge through some floorboards which have nails in them as well as a small metal joint.
Does anybody do a blade for the TS 55 similar to the Evolution multipurpose blades, like this one?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-rage-multi-purpose-blade-185mm/31656

If not, does anybody have any more ideas?

Thanks

 

[Alan m]

welcome to the fog mu

i dont know of one of those type blade.
i would try and find a blade the right diameter(or even a bit smaller) and the right kerf.
after that its just find the cheapest one

 

[Ta2ude]

I've used my TS55 and standard blade to replace many floor boards and always cut through the cleats, so far it has stood up very well. You just have to be conscious of how fast you are feeding the saw when hitting a cleat/nail/staple. Carbide is used to machine metal all the time in industry, your saw blade is basically a carbide tipped slotting cutter. It will definitely affect your blades sharpness faster than cutting wood but the teeth shouldn't smash off as long as you don't push/feed the saw too quickly through the nail.

 

[Stone Message]

After cutting a nail by accident I now keep that blade for all those jobs where it might happen again.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

Wow Peter,

You have to WATCH that, you dont want to do it TIME and TIME again.  [big grin]

 

[Frank-Jan]

Protool sells a blade that's meant for nail embedded wood, wood with bits of concrete etc.: link to Dutch protool site

On the site that's listed as the UK protool site, they give the blade a different article number, but it's on the fifth page of the accessories list: link

The blade does have a bit wider kerf, so you need to replace the rubber strip after use.

I've cut out floorboards with nails in them a few months back, and I used a regular blade I had previously hit a nail with by accident (which I marked like Peter said). It did get blunt, the nails sparked a lot, and I didn't have the spark trap thing on my CT.

My CT didn't catch fire BUT the stuff in the bag smouldered a bit, and even after replacing the bag, the burnt smell kept coming out of my vac for weeks. So I would recommend not using a vac if possible, or getting the spark trap thing (black roundish contraption you put between the hose and the vac)

 

[Stone Message]

If Protool do it then contact Toolfest (also known as Bunny's Bolts) as they are a big (might be biggest) UK stockist.

Peter

 

[Ta2ude]

I've cut out floorboards with nails in them a few months back, and I used a regular blade I had previously hit a nail with by accident (which I marked like Peter said). It did get blunt, the nails sparked a lot, and I didn't have the spark trap thing on my CT.

My CT didn't catch fire BUT the stuff in the bag smoldered a bit, and even after replacing the bag, the burnt smell kept coming out of my vac for weeks. So I would recommend not using a vac if possible, or getting the spark trap thing (black roundish contraption you put between the hose and the vac)

I find that interesting as I install floors for a living and have replaced numerous boards with my TS55. In new home construction the trades are brutal and have no respect for the floors at all, poor scheduling by the site super often has several trades in after we install the floors. The first time I ever used a TS55 I replaced 28 damaged boards throughout the home. I used a single blade and there was no smouldering or burnt smell from the Midi with Hepa filter during or after. I also used the same blade several more times for the same purpose before sending it for sharpening. I cut through the cleats on every single board I replaced.

 

[Deansocial]

If Protool do it then contact Toolfest (also known as Bunny's Bolts) as they are a big (might be biggest) UK stockist.

Peter

Like linked in the post above yours...

 

[Deansocial]

Just dont hit a screw! I hit a drywall screw with a panther blade that was a week old and too every tooth off! The normal blades are fine in my experience as long as you take it steady

 

[Tinker]

I have never used my ATF 55 for cutting into lumber with nails.  I did use Milwaukkee with various mame carbide blades for years cutting reused form and scaffolding lumber.  I cut into many nails.  The blades lasted thru a lot of cuts into nails as well as concrete covered boards.  A lot of carbide tips broke off, but for the work i was doing, i just kept cutting until so many teeth broke the blade would start t warp. I don't think you would want to go that far, but I was doing very rough work in prep for better work to be done with my trowels and stone tools.
Tinker

 

[Frank-Jan]

I've cut out floorboards with nails in them a few months back, and I used a regular blade I had previously hit a nail with by accident (which I marked like Peter said). It did get blunt, the nails sparked a lot, and I didn't have the spark trap thing on my CT.

My CT didn't catch fire BUT the stuff in the bag smoldered a bit, and even after replacing the bag, the burnt smell kept coming out of my vac for weeks. So I would recommend not using a vac if possible, or getting the spark trap thing (black roundish contraption you put between the hose and the vac)

I find that interesting as I install floors for a living and have replaced numerous boards with my TS55. In new home construction the trades are brutal and have no respect for the floors at all, poor scheduling by the site super often has several trades in after we install the floors. The first time I ever used a TS55 I replaced 28 damaged boards throughout the home. I used a single blade and there was no smouldering or burnt smell from the Midi with Hepa filter during or after. I also used the same blade several more times for the same purpose before sending it for sharpening. I cut through the cleats on every single board I replaced.

In this case it was not a typical job I would normally use my ts55 for, it was not cutting out a few damaged boards but an entire floor. (It was a wooden ground floor in an old house, where there typically would be a ventilated crawl space underneath, but there was hardly any room under the joists, so in places the floor started to rot. The job was to take out the entire wooden (sub)floor, including the joists; then install insulation and a mortar floor)

I divided the floor for easier demolition and loading the old floor onto the trailer, by laying the 3 m rail over a joist so the cut would miss most of the nails, but I still hit plenty. I made two runs of about 5 m each, and the blade was way beyond sharpening (chips missing from the teeth)

 

[mu]

Thanks everybody for your advice. I only just noticed that the thread had been replied to.
I can second the "drywall screw" advice. I hit one the first time I used a new Festool blade". It chipped a few of the teeth.
I gave it a go on high speed and slow forward moving and it dod the job. There weren't any prblems and seemed to do fine, although I managed to avoid all but a couple of nails.
Thanks again