Designing and building a true Australian Shed.

Ahh, thanks for clarifying. I had no idea Doug Fir was exported to Oz. In the US we forget how fortunate we are for having (having had?) such vast forests. & global trade is fascinating.

It still boggles my mind (admittedly not a hard thing to accomplish) that someone in AU can grow grapes, make wine, buy a bottle & package it, ship it to the US from importer to wholesaler to retailer to me for $7 bucks.

The shed project looks like fun, especially enjoy seeing the materials recycled.

RMW

Untidy Shop said:
[size=13pt][member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]

Hi Richard.  You might know it as Douglas Fir, but given that for many years it was imported from Oregon, we call it 'Oregon'. It was a favourite species here in the past for building ware houses and similar. Once, even only ten years ago, it was easy to find in most timber sales yards. Not so easy now, more now a specialist sale. Here  are some 'down under' links -http://www.timber.net.au/?option=com_species&name=Oregon&Itemid=448http://www.simplyoregon.com.auhttp://www.justwoodaustralia.com.au/history-of-oregon

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[size=9pt]Comercial
Oregon has long been regarded as a superior material for structural components and in heavy timber applications. It is used extensively for pilings, railway ties, sawmill and warehouse construction and numerous other areas where structural performance is of the utmost importance.

The species is highly resistant to chemical reaction and is often used in the manufacture of vats, tanks, containers, flumes, conduits and similar industrial components.
Oregon's stability and workability make it the perfect choice for form work and scaffold planks where a strong, lightweight timber is required.

Domestic
The strength and beauty of natural Oregon beams enhance the warmth and visual appeal of any home, whether is be used extensively in a post and beam construction or utilised simply in a pergola.
Its high strength to weight ratio makes the timber easily employed in the construction of concealed house framing, roof beams and rafters or fascia.
Previously Oregon could not be used in some external structural applications such as bearers and joists under weather exposed decks - this has now changed since the introduction of our H3 Treatment (above ground treatment for borers, termites and decay)

Quoted from -http://www.justwoodaustralia.com.au/applications
 
Richard/RMW said:
It still boggles my mind (admittedly not a hard thing to accomplish) that someone in AU can grow grapes, make wine, buy a bottle & package it, ship it to the US from importer to wholesaler to retailer to me for $7 bucks.

To my knowledge a lot of wine is bottled in the markets where they are to be sold (in the style and design of the producer). There are specialized companies doing that.
The wine itself is shipped over in shipping containers with giant plastic bags in them that hold a couple of thousand liters. It sounds improbable, but these bags are sturdy enough to stand on when filled & because they are filled to capacity, without any air included, the wine stays 'fresh'.

It would be rather daft to ship a product in bottles that weigh as much as the product, right?
 
Bert Vanderveen said:
Richard/RMW said:
It still boggles my mind (admittedly not a hard thing to accomplish) that someone in AU can grow grapes, make wine, buy a bottle & package it, ship it to the US from importer to wholesaler to retailer to me for $7 bucks.

To my knowledge a lot of wine is bottled in the markets where they are to be sold (in the style and design of the producer). There are specialized companies doing that.
The wine itself is shipped over in shipping containers with giant plastic bags in them that hold a couple of thousand liters. It sounds improbable, but these bags are sturdy enough to stand on when filled & because they are filled to capacity, without any air included, the wine stays 'fresh'.

It would be rather daft to ship a product in bottles that weigh as much as the product, right?

Understood, but still $7?

RMW
 
>>Understood, but still $7?

Yep, that is really unbelievable. But FYI only about 30% of that amount goes to the producer, who has to foot the packaging out of that, which could cost up to a dollar or so. The rest of those 7 bucks go to importer, distributor and retailer (the latter being the one that gets most of it).

If only wine producers could sell their wine at my local Farmers Market… Much fairer to them. But quite impossible, I guess. Or maybe I should move to my fave wine region (Marlborough in NZ)?
 
[size=13pt]Whilst there has been some progress on the shed, and there is sunshine this week, the really great news of the past month is that there has been rain, rain and more rain! 

1/5th of our long term average annual rainfall in May and drought braking. [big grin] [smile]

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Trouble with sunshine after rain, it's mower time!  [eek]
 

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I should run you a pipe from my place for the overflow (it's down hill). The rain we had through the storms was insane!

 
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Brilliant June sunshine yesterday afternoon and today, so managed to complete most of the framework. Essentially frame complete except for front eve work and the batons are still to come.

All frame fastening - 100mm Treated Pine Screws, lubricated with lanolin oil; M10 and M12 Coach and Hex Bolts lubricated with Castrol Ag Grease.

Tools - Makita Compound Saw, Makita and Metabo 18V Drills, Makita 125mm Angle Grinder, and Wera Ratchet Spanners.


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Kev said:
I should run you a pipe from my place for the overflow (it's down hill). The rain we had through the storms was insane!

[member=13058]Kev[/member]

Thanks for the offer, but most of the June rain was from the southern tip of that deep low that caused your recent severe coastal storm.

And I see you may be in for more storms this weekend!
 

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After nearly a year away from this project due to health issues and other priority projects, this Shed build is now back on this past week.

[size=18pt] Making picket doors -
[size=14pt]These doors will in fact be constructed as picket gates with double diagonal ie. a 'W' frame.  Door Sizes = 1900X1000 and 1900X600mm.

Stage 1 making W Frame and machining pickets.

Materials -
H3 Treated  MP10 90X35  re machined laser cut Pine.
H4 Treated 150X25 Rough Sawn Pine.
Sippo 5X8 and 10X50 Dominos.
TittBond 111 Glue
Cabbots Timbercolor Deck and Exterior Paint in Woodland Grey.

Tools - Rolex 150, RTS 400, Domino 500, KS60, TS55. Table Saw, Planer and Thicknesser, and Bessey Clamps.

150X25 Sanded with ROTEX., Ripped on one edge with TS55 and rail, then ripped on table saw to create approx. 70mm width pickets.

To accomodate the hinges and latches, two panels were made per door, one panel with three and one with two pickets and which in both cases were rejoined with 5X8 Sippo Dominos.

90X35 re machined via a Planner and Thicknesser, then table saw. Timber then cut to size, including angles with KS60 and Angle Finder to make 'W' frame. Each join made with Domino on setting 2 and with two Dominos per join. After clamping and glue drying time frame and particularly the joints were sanded with RTS400

Finished off the day painting of under side of pickets and frames, prior to assembly and final paint.

Tomorrow? Depending on weather;  continue with doors, or continue  cladding the Shed.
 

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Cladding

Spent the day cladding the Shed with recycled galvanised roofing iron; treated with 'Penetrol' as per earlier post. Also spent the evening working on the doors, but more of that in a future post.

The lower left image was taken in the same approx position as the lower left image in Reply #27. The upper right image in this and the other post also corrispond.

Tools - AEG Drill and Impact Driver, Makita 125 Grinder, Wiss Snips, straight edge, rafter square and level.

Materials - Recycled Galvanised Roofing Iron, Galavanised Metal trim, Penetrol, Brush, 25mm Hex Screws.

Iron cut to approx length with Angle Grinder to release tension, then trimmed with Snips.

Remaining tasks include - complete cladding rear wall across rear of old Shed to provide continuity, complete roof, complete and erect doors, repaint/paint older/existing Shed areas in Woodland Grey, fit out internal areas with hangers and bench [old Shed door], and lay and screed road base floor..
 

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Making Picket Doors [cont'd]

[size=14pt]Stage 2  attaching pickets, trimming with TS55 and rail, champhering edges with router and painting first coat.

[size=13pt]Tools -
Timber strips as spacers, 1010 Router, CT22,  Diablo 45deg champher router bit, C15 Drill, Makita Impact Driver, TS55 and 1400 rail, paint brush and Bessy Clamps.

Consumerables - 8G 40mm Square drive Treated Pine Screws, Dulux TimberColor in Woodland Grey.

Progress continues with the Shed itself. Cladding and roofing are complete; there remains the floor and reprinting the older sections, prior to hanging the doors. Oh! And guttering too.
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[size=11pt]As I will be having further eye surgery next Monday, it remains to be seen whether the next post reveals the completed project by then or at a future time.
 

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It's taken a while, health issues and a house sale seemed to continually get in the way, but yesterday it was finished. Well apart from some minor landscaping.

It is not yet the true Australian Shed, that will take time as the elements are left to do their thing. I have surprised myself at the amount of recycled or repurposed timber, corrugated iron and zincalome I was able to use. The purchased materials mainly consisted of cement, gal stirips, bolts, tech, batten and treated pine screws, Penatrol and  paint, hinges, catches etc. and hooks. The only new timber was the newer doors. Oh and some dominos and glue for them too.. For example, the 'floating' shelf was a repurposed garden shed door made around 30 years ago by the father in law.

Thankyou to all who read this thread and particularly those who contributed - [member=13058]Kev[/member] , [member=550]Tinker[/member],  [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] , [member=19691]Locky[/member] , [member=40772]Holmz[/member] , [member=28483]iamnothim[/member] , [member=8167]Festoolfootstool[/member] , [member=5467]Bert Vanderveen[/member]  , [member=41761]Jbmccombe[/member] , and [member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member].
 

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Nice shed Buddy looking good, even if it doesnt have a stripper pole in it and keg or 2
 
[size=13pt]
[member=28483]iamnothim[/member]
Thanks for your kind remarks.
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[size=8pt]
jobsworth said:
Nice shed Buddy looking good, even if it doesnt have a stripper pole in it and keg or 2

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[member=10147]jobsworth[/member]
Thanks Ron.
I thought you might want to purchase one of these for your US garden shed and before you leave the UK.  [big grin]

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That's a very useful shed and looking very, dare I say tidy.
The only thing I might add, you might have already thought of it, would be a facia board to protect the end grain and just finish it off.
 
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DB10 said:
That's a very useful shed and looking very, dare I say tidy.
The only thing I might add, you might have already thought of it, would be a facia board to protect the end grain and just finish it off.
[size=13pt]

Thanks [member=42735]DB10[/member]
As you might have noted from earlier photographs the origional Shed did have a 150X25mm Treated Pine Facia. I took it off intending to replace it with a longer length. Then I sort have begun to like the 'naked' no facia look. You are right, I should put on a facia and even have the timber. For the moment there is good quality paint on that end grain but for how long?! I will think it over during next week.

I also intend to install a solar powered  shed light in the near future.
 
[member=19746]Untidy Shop[/member], Wood a good logger's wax do the trick for you.  As the wood dries out, the paint will shrink  and crack.  The loggers wax will be flexible enough that it does not crack as the wood shrinks.
That way, you can keep the appearanceyou were (are) looking for.

You have managed to keep the essence of antiquity and haphazardness, but also the tidiness you are trying to retain.  You have done a really nice job on all points.
Tinker
 
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