Differences between C15 & T15?

[Yeon]

I'm still very new to festool and currently only own a festool sander and CT 36. After using them however I decided the cost of these tools is well worth it especially if the others are of the same quality.

While I want to go crazy and buy a bunch of new tools it isn't practical right now. I do have a serious need for a new cordless drill though (currently using an old craftsman that really is only good as a paperweight). Primary uses are driving screws (I don't expecting needing to do anything more than 2.5" in length), drilling holes up to about 3/4" diameter and just general household work as it comes up. After reviewing specs I think the C15 or T15 would be powerful enough to satisfy my needs.

What is the major different between the "C" and "T" series drills from festool? Obviously the design is different but is one series designed specifically geared towards a particular application?

Also in general I use GRK brand fasteners. They have specific shaped bits for the various types and want to make sure I wouldn't have an issue with a festool drill being able to use those bits. Not sure if anyone here has used them.

 

[geoffshep]

Mostly the shape I think - although I see there is a slight difference in the stated torques for each drill.  Looks similar to my question about the C18 vs T18:http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-f...ill-question-c18-vs-t183/msg457082/#msg457082

 

[semenza]

The difference is indeed the shape and it is a matter of personal preference.  The set version with the additional chucks is the way to go. Those chucks can be indispensable.  You won't have any problem with the screw compatibility. GRK use torx drive.  Available from lots of sources and also in Festool Centrotec.

Seth

 

[Kev]

I really like the C handle for precision work, it seems to offer me better control. Could be all I'm my head though [wink]

 

[RKA]

Consider the 18v versions, that way if you choose to add a power hungry saw later, you can buy a kit without batteries and use the batteries you obtained with the drill.

 

[geoffshep]

Good point - I was going to add that for the minimal price difference I would go for the 18v version but hadn't thought about the advantage of using the batteries with other cordless tools.  In fact I can't see a compelling reason to go with the 15v one.

 

[Kev]

On the 18s ... The new 2.6Ah's actually make the total unit more nimble than a 15 with the bulkier battery.

 

[mrboult]

There really is no point going with the abandoned 15v line. And as Kev said the smaller 2.6 ah batteries make the drills more compact anyway.

The only other thing to throw into the mix - is that if your jobs for this drill are literally only the things you described in your post, and you're not bothered about future investment in the 18v tool line. .  .
I would recommend the CXS or TXS. They'll do all those jobs easily, and the kit with the angle chuck is much cheaper than the 18v tools.

I've used my CXS to bury 100mm screws through softwood framing, or drill 35mm holes in oak with a sharp Forstner Bit. Obviously these kind of tasks are more suited to an 18v drill, but the CXS will do them.

If you think having more power on hand could prove useful, then an 18v drill is the way to go. If it's just for the tasks you listed, i'd recommend the CXS/TXS.

 

[semenza]

The 18v 2.6 batteries won't run the TSC55.

Seth

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Go 18V for system compatibility - no weight penalty. C15 (14,4V) is a dead end nowadays, unfortunately. 
C or T? I have both. Wanna save some reading time? Skip to the last paragraph.*

I started out with the C and still think it has some benefits to the shape. I switched to the T18 recently and honestly think it is a more ergonomic grip and that it has a better feel to it for general drilling and driving.
Before I had 18V drills I used the Classic C12 and the T12+3 drills and thought the T18 "awkward" in comparison - but this was before the 2,6Ah batteries for the 18V and of course before the C18.

Pros for C:
Bit garage at front is great to have. Bits stay in place too. You can fit a few screws when up a ladder if needed. 
Or you can fit the countersink bit, a drill bit and a bit. Odd shape helps at times in awkward positions (easier to work with two hands).

Cons for C:
grip not as comfortable as the T - more square and deeper.
nose heavy with the drill chuck on
very nose heavy with a hole saw on the drill chuck

Pros for T:
Better grip.
In very odd circumstances the classic shape helps in tight spots with sneaking the drill around a side.
Less nose heavy with drill chuck on - though they are supposed to be balanced similarly.
VERY comfortable with the 2,6Ah battery. 

Cons for T:
Bit garage not very secure. Bits fall out easily.

Cons for both:
Light does not stay on, not even for a while when trigger is activated and then released.
(The Festool 18V DRC has a selector for the light so you can switch it on and leave it on, this I like.)

Belt clip is really, really poor on both machines. Too short and a menace if you climb up a ladder or even step up or down on a stool just by altering your posture you risk wiggling the machine off your belt. The risk of dropping your Festool drill is MUCH higher than with most of the competition. This is a shame. Also it snaps off the batteries too easily - it is simply put: a very poor clip.

2,6 Ah batteries are really nice. Makes both machines light and agile. Driving lag bolts with the small battery did not work that well for me. Machine started beeping after two - a fully charged battery, recently off the charger. With the 5,2Ah battery the lag bolts all went in with ease. I have both the 5,2 and 2,6 Ah batteries and I prefer working with the 2,6Ah and it sees me through most of the day with ease. Drove some 400+ decking screws (55mm) on one charge with the small battery, plus some shorter lag bolts and pre drilling for lag bolts. That is good enough for me.

I no longer have the C18 as I use the T18 and DRC for all "heavy" work. The T18 with the 2,6Ah battery is small enough that I could justify it as a small task drill as well.

The CXS is - for me - the best side kick there is to the T18; C-style grip and very very nimble. The belt clip on the CXS is superb on the too. The TXS is too tall and not too different from a T18 in size I think. Also, the TXS battery clip is not as deep as the CXS and less secure.

The CXS is my most used drill - but using it a lot for tasks more suited for the larger drills will wear it out. I have worn out the motor on two CXS drills in two to three years time. I haven't even subjected them to that much gruelling work - I baby my drills - but they both dropped in performance over the years - even with new batteries.
I never hesitated to replace the worn out drills but I look forward to a brushless version of the CXS.

*
Get the T18 and a CXS. Be happy.

 

[Yeon]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, leaning strongly towards one of the 18V models now.

Has it been mentioned what the deal is with accessories such as drill bits on whether there is only going to be metric or only imperial going forward in NA? It isn't ideal to buy any metric that will be discounted soon rendering replacements if necessary impossible.

 

[Kev]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, leaning strongly towards one of the 18V models now.

Has it been mentioned what the deal is with accessories such as drill bits on whether there is only going to be metric or only imperial going forward in NA? It isn't ideal to buy any metric that will be discounted soon rendering replacements if necessary impossible.

It would be insane for Festool NA to stop the supply of metric drill bits. Regardless, they're small and easy to obtain from every other corner of the planet ... I wouldn't worry.