“Do it all” drill

[luvmytoolz]

That's exactly how I usually work too. Many things I work on invariably seem to need a lot of different diameter holes drilled and countersunk, so having multiple drills and drivers setup is an amazing time saver.

 

[onocoffee]

I've got quite a few drills myself ranging from Festool to DeWalt, Kreg and Skil. My daily driver is the CXS 12 and the Skil 12A impact. Both are compact workhorses, but the CXS is always a surprise. Small, lightweight, narrow profile but a considerable amount of power. I used it to drill 100 20mm dogholes when I was modifying my bench in 2024. The Festool drills are finesse tools. Unlike the others that demonstrate raw power, the Festool ramps up and brings the torque. It's an elegant tool comparatively. And I find that true with the CXS 12, TID 18, T18+3 and T18+3E. I don't have the TPC mainly because I've got the DeWalt 1007.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

The drill I want doesn’t exist. constantly having to use a drill and vacuum when I drill anchored or drive screws into drywall for particular application is a nuisance.

The same is true when drill cabinet door/drawer pulls.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a drive, similar to the Milwaukee fhafoh160 overhead concrete hammer drill.

Depth guide built in. Vacuum built in. It doesn’t have to be anything as massive, a drill w/ small vacuum capable of holding dust/debris from a feed holes when drilling up to half inch holes in drywall.

They actually do exist for concrete drilling from some manufacturers. Depth guide and vacuum standard.

 

[Packard]

For me, a single drill doesn't make sense. For a lot of projects I use one drill for drilling holes and another set up for driving screws. Not having to switch bits is helpful to me.

Bob

I agree.

The big, powerful drill I need to drive screws, is too big and heavy for smaller, more intricate jobs.

I have an older version of this drill/screw driver. It has a very accurate torque clutch, quick change bits and a folding handle for tight spaces. I originally bought it for my picture framing business, which requires more delicacy than brute. I use it frequently. But—not suitable for a one-drill household.



In my opinion, “one-drill” is for the basic home owner. Woodworkers need, at a minimum, a powerful drill and a compact, light weight drill. Notwithstanding the lack of prestige owning a Home Depot Ridgid brand drill, mine has given steady service over several years, with affordable and readily available batteries.

I drill a lot of dowel holes. I have a high speed DeWalt line voltage drill that does not seem to slow under load. It drills much faster and yields cleaner holes than my other drills.

I also have a $20.00 plug in drill from Harbor Freight that I use to mix paint. The paint mixer has been attached for so many years I doubt that the chuck is still functional. I’m not about to change it—it being perfect for the task. When and if it dies, I have an extra $20.00 set aside for its replacement. Note: I have seen it on sale for about $15.00–I just don’t wait for the sale.

 

[Cheese]

Please say more on how you do this. Thank you.

I just go to a local steel supplier and purchase a 4' or 5' stick of low-carbon 1018 hex rod. Cut it into the correct lengths and add a chamfer to each end. One end attaches to the auger and the other to the drill chuck. As I auger the hole I monitor the condition of the 1018 hex drive rod and when it appears to be twisted about 90º, I replace the drive rod with a new one and continue. It saves the auger from serious damage as well as the internal drive-train of the drill. I've installed about 50 fence posts over the years that are in 3'-4' deep holes. It's a lot easier when 2 people operate it.

 

[onocoffee]

The drill I want doesn’t exist. constantly having to use a drill and vacuum when I drill anchored or drive screws into drywall for particular application is a nuisance.

The same is true when drill cabinet door/drawer pulls.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a drive, similar to the Milwaukee fhafoh160 overhead concrete hammer drill.

Depth guide built in. Vacuum built in. It doesn’t have to be anything as massive, a drill w/ small vacuum capable of holding dust/debris from a feed holes when drilling up to half inch holes in drywall.

This is not meant to be a commentary on you, @mcfal12

BUT, where are all my peeps talking about how silly it is to have a dust collection hose connected to a cordless drill?

I mean, WHY would you want a cordless drill when you still have to be tethered to a hose? Amiright?

 

[Packard]

This is not meant to be a commentary on you, @mcfal12

BUT, where are all my peeps talking about how silly it is to have a dust collection hose connected to a cordless drill?

I mean, WHY would you want a cordless drill when you still have to be tethered to a hose? Amiright?

The one thing I prefer about my corded drill, is the motor’s fan can effectively be used to blow clear the sawdust. I just bring the side vent near to the drilled hole and and I pull the trigger briefly.

I keep a corded drill near my work bench all the time. I prefer the corded drill if I am working in one place. I also have a retired home vacuum at my bench, but invariably, I use the side vents of the electric drill to blow away the sawdust.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The one thing I prefer about my corded drill, is the motor’s fan can effectively be used to blow clear the sawdust. I just bring the side vent near to the drilled hole and and I pull the trigger briefly.

I keep a corded drill near my work bench all the time. I prefer the corded drill if I am working in one place. I also have a retired home vacuum at my bench, but invariably, I use the side vents of the electric drill to blow away the sawdust.

I recommend buying an inexpensive remote control for your vac. Instead of hoisting the heavier electric drill and blowing debris away/around just keep the lightweight hose end near the work and keep the remote there as well. The combo can easily be rigged to extract the dust/debris made while drilling holes at the bench.

 

[mrboult]

T18+3 imo

I’ve owned almost all the Festool Drills. T18 is by far the best drill ever made imo. But it doesn’t have hammer function. . But to be honest, hammer drills are limited and you’ll often/sometimes find your hammer drill isn’t enough. So maybe just get the T18 and and SDS drill if you need it. Best of All worlds right there.

Honestly the T18 with the compact batteries feels as light and ergonomic as a glove, but enough power to do anything you could reasonably expect a cordless drill to do.

 

[Ace8]

I’ve owned almost all the Festool Drills. T18 is by far the best drill ever made imo. But it doesn’t have hammer function. . But to be honest, hammer drills are limited and you’ll often/sometimes find your hammer drill isn’t enough. So maybe just get the T18 and and SDS drill if you need it. Best of All worlds right there.

Honestly the T18 with the compact batteries feels as light and ergonomic as a glove, but enough power to do anything you could reasonably expect a cordless drill to do.

For me the T18+3 has one problem and that is the light goes off to quickly. In many regards I think the CXS 18 is a better drill/driver but it might lack power if one asks for one to do it all drill, there need to be compromises…