“Do it all” drill

[luvmytoolz]

That's exactly how I usually work too. Many things I work on invariably seem to need a lot of different diameter holes drilled and countersunk, so having multiple drills and drivers setup is an amazing time saver.

 

[onocoffee]

I've got quite a few drills myself ranging from Festool to DeWalt, Kreg and Skil. My daily driver is the CXS 12 and the Skil 12A impact. Both are compact workhorses, but the CXS is always a surprise. Small, lightweight, narrow profile but a considerable amount of power. I used it to drill 100 20mm dogholes when I was modifying my bench in 2024. The Festool drills are finesse tools. Unlike the others that demonstrate raw power, the Festool ramps up and brings the torque. It's an elegant tool comparatively. And I find that true with the CXS 12, TID 18, T18+3 and T18+3E. I don't have the TPC mainly because I've got the DeWalt 1007.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

The drill I want doesn’t exist. constantly having to use a drill and vacuum when I drill anchored or drive screws into drywall for particular application is a nuisance.

The same is true when drill cabinet door/drawer pulls.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a drive, similar to the Milwaukee fhafoh160 overhead concrete hammer drill.

Depth guide built in. Vacuum built in. It doesn’t have to be anything as massive, a drill w/ small vacuum capable of holding dust/debris from a feed holes when drilling up to half inch holes in drywall.

They actually do exist for concrete drilling from some manufacturers. Depth guide and vacuum standard.

 

[Packard]

For me, a single drill doesn't make sense. For a lot of projects I use one drill for drilling holes and another set up for driving screws. Not having to switch bits is helpful to me.

Bob

I agree.

The big, powerful drill I need to drive screws, is too big and heavy for smaller, more intricate jobs.

I have an older version of this drill/screw driver. It has a very accurate torque clutch, quick change bits and a folding handle for tight spaces. I originally bought it for my picture framing business, which requires more delicacy than brute. I use it frequently. But—not suitable for a one-drill household.



In my opinion, “one-drill” is for the basic home owner. Woodworkers need, at a minimum, a powerful drill and a compact, light weight drill. Notwithstanding the lack of prestige owning a Home Depot Ridgid brand drill, mine has given steady service over several years, with affordable and readily available batteries.

I drill a lot of dowel holes. I have a high speed DeWalt line voltage drill that does not seem to slow under load. It drills much faster and yields cleaner holes than my other drills.

I also have a $20.00 plug in drill from Harbor Freight that I use to mix paint. The paint mixer has been attached for so many years I doubt that the chuck is still functional. I’m not about to change it—it being perfect for the task. When and if it dies, I have an extra $20.00 set aside for its replacement. Note: I have seen it on sale for about $15.00–I just don’t wait for the sale.

 

[Cheese]

Please say more on how you do this. Thank you.

I just go to a local steel supplier and purchase a 4' or 5' stick of low-carbon 1018 hex rod. Cut it into the correct lengths and add a chamfer to each end. One end attaches to the auger and the other to the drill chuck. As I auger the hole I monitor the condition of the 1018 hex drive rod and when it appears to be twisted about 90º, I replace the drive rod with a new one and continue. It saves the auger from serious damage as well as the internal drive-train of the drill. I've installed about 50 fence posts over the years that are in 3'-4' deep holes. It's a lot easier when 2 people operate it.

 

[onocoffee]

The drill I want doesn’t exist. constantly having to use a drill and vacuum when I drill anchored or drive screws into drywall for particular application is a nuisance.

The same is true when drill cabinet door/drawer pulls.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a drive, similar to the Milwaukee fhafoh160 overhead concrete hammer drill.

Depth guide built in. Vacuum built in. It doesn’t have to be anything as massive, a drill w/ small vacuum capable of holding dust/debris from a feed holes when drilling up to half inch holes in drywall.

This is not meant to be a commentary on you, @mcfal12

BUT, where are all my peeps talking about how silly it is to have a dust collection hose connected to a cordless drill?

I mean, WHY would you want a cordless drill when you still have to be tethered to a hose? Amiright?

 

[Packard]

This is not meant to be a commentary on you, @mcfal12

BUT, where are all my peeps talking about how silly it is to have a dust collection hose connected to a cordless drill?

I mean, WHY would you want a cordless drill when you still have to be tethered to a hose? Amiright?

The one thing I prefer about my corded drill, is the motor’s fan can effectively be used to blow clear the sawdust. I just bring the side vent near to the drilled hole and and I pull the trigger briefly.

I keep a corded drill near my work bench all the time. I prefer the corded drill if I am working in one place. I also have a retired home vacuum at my bench, but invariably, I use the side vents of the electric drill to blow away the sawdust.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The one thing I prefer about my corded drill, is the motor’s fan can effectively be used to blow clear the sawdust. I just bring the side vent near to the drilled hole and and I pull the trigger briefly.

I keep a corded drill near my work bench all the time. I prefer the corded drill if I am working in one place. I also have a retired home vacuum at my bench, but invariably, I use the side vents of the electric drill to blow away the sawdust.

I recommend buying an inexpensive remote control for your vac. Instead of hoisting the heavier electric drill and blowing debris away/around just keep the lightweight hose end near the work and keep the remote there as well. The combo can easily be rigged to extract the dust/debris made while drilling holes at the bench.

 

[mrboult]

T18+3 imo

I’ve owned almost all the Festool Drills. T18 is by far the best drill ever made imo. But it doesn’t have hammer function. . But to be honest, hammer drills are limited and you’ll often/sometimes find your hammer drill isn’t enough. So maybe just get the T18 and and SDS drill if you need it. Best of All worlds right there.

Honestly the T18 with the compact batteries feels as light and ergonomic as a glove, but enough power to do anything you could reasonably expect a cordless drill to do.

 

[Ace8]

I’ve owned almost all the Festool Drills. T18 is by far the best drill ever made imo. But it doesn’t have hammer function. . But to be honest, hammer drills are limited and you’ll often/sometimes find your hammer drill isn’t enough. So maybe just get the T18 and and SDS drill if you need it. Best of All worlds right there.

Honestly the T18 with the compact batteries feels as light and ergonomic as a glove, but enough power to do anything you could reasonably expect a cordless drill to do.

For me the T18+3 has one problem and that is the light goes off to quickly. In many regards I think the CXS 18 is a better drill/driver but it might lack power if one asks for one to do it all drill, there need to be compromises…

 

[Doug S]

T18 for me.

I loved my little CXS 10.8, it was my most used driver (but lacked for drilling). It eventually died and I started using my T18 for everything, I planned on getting another CXS 10.8 but this was around the time the CXS 12 was announced so I thought I would wait and see what that's like.

I had a play with the CXS 12 and found it nice but wasn't keen on the noise it makes. I would buy one if they sold it as a bare tool as in just the drill body and two batteries, I already have more systainers, chargers and chucks than I need so it pains me that to get the drill I have to also pay for things I don't want or need.........Festool are you listening?

To me the CXS 18 and TXS 18 just don't feel as good as the T18.

I have as PDC which is surprisingly good for the finer stuff and it has hammer action so I guess is a good all rounder but wow it's LOUD in hammer mode so I generally get the SDS out anyway.

It would be nice if the T18 was slightly lighter but it really is a fine drill plus the 90 degree and eccentric chucks are very handy.

I often used to have 2 drills set up for different things but these days I generally just use the T18 for everything and just swap bits or chucks.

 

[rmhinden]

I have a T18 and the CXS 12 (2.h Ah battery). I like both a lot. Might be time to get some new batteries for the CXS. They don't charge fully, but seem to work fine otherwise.

 

[leakyroof]

First, I agree that a one Drill to Do It All is a tough one unless you're just starting out with Tools and can only afford 1 drill for the moment.
Among my Festool Collection, I agree with Derek's comment above"" The closest drill to a one-size-fits-all in my collection is the PDC 18/4""
I don't find it too heavy, and it has more power than my old T15+3, so when it needs to be cordless among my Festool choices, the PDC is generally the drill I grab for bigger work within its power and capability scale. If it's not needed, then the old T15 does the rest unless IT'S too big or bulky, which in turn brings out my Gen 1 CXS. The CXS, I actually rarely use....
That last phrase is the key^^^^. I have corded drills that far exceed my Cordless drills, and specialized drills that do jobs none of the regular drills can.
You haven't lived drilling holes in masonry or brick until you get to use a Festool KHC18. Total game changer for me with cordless drilling in masonry.

 

[luvmytoolz]

You haven't lived drilling holes in masonry or brick until you get to use a Festool KHC18. Total game changer for me with cordless drilling in masonry.

I'm picking one up next week and can't wait! Sold/gave away my other old concrete drills in anticipation!

 

[leakyroof]

I'm picking one up next week and can't wait! Sold/gave away my other old concrete drills in anticipation!

You should love it for all the smaller sized bits it's rated to handle. I have the older model, the ergonomics were a welcome surprise when I first got mine. I'd used much larger Rotary hammer drills for big holes through a foundation or to drill anchor bolts, but didn't have anything like the Festool for all the normal under 16mm/ 5/8" anchors that I use the most of. I used it with a really long bit to run coax cable through the walls of our brick home- the drill just made it look easy. I gave a few moments of thought on how I would have dreaded something like this in the 1980's when I only had corded drills with stubby carbide bits. Made me smile on how things have changed for the better with tools.

 

[Cheese]

You should love it for all the smaller sized bits it's rated to handle. I have the older model, the ergonomics were a welcome surprise when I first got mine. I'd used much larger Rotary hammer drills for big holes through a foundation or to drill anchor bolts, but didn't have anything like the Festool for all the normal under 16mm/ 5/8" anchors that I use the most of. I used it with a really long bit to run coax cable through the walls of our brick home- the drill just made it look easy. I gave a few moments of thought on how I would have dreaded something like this in the 1980's when I only had corded drills with stubby carbide bits. Made me smile on how things have changed for the better with tools.

You could always use an extra long star drill.

 

[Buccaneer]

T18 for me.

I loved my little CXS 10.8, it was my most used driver (but lacked for drilling). It eventually died and I started using my T18 for everything, I planned on getting another CXS 10.8 but this was around the time the CXS 12 was announced so I thought I would wait and see what that's like.

I had a play with the CXS 12 and found it nice but wasn't keen on the noise it makes. I would buy one if they sold it as a bare tool as in just the drill body and two batteries, I already have more systainers, chargers and chucks than I need so it pains me that to get the drill I have to also pay for things I don't want or need.........Festool are you listening?

To me the CXS 18 and TXS 18 just don't feel as good as the T18.

I have as PDC which is surprisingly good for the finer stuff and it has hammer action so I guess is a good all rounder but wow it's LOUD in hammer mode so I generally get the SDS out anyway.

It would be nice if the T18 was slightly lighter but it really is a fine drill plus the 90 degree and eccentric chucks are very handy.

I often used to have 2 drills set up for different things but these days I generally just use the T18 for everything and just swap bits or chucks.

I agree I have 2 T18s original cxs and txs and the new TXS18. The T18 and original TXS and CXS are all what I would call sweet drills, even though the T18 is bigger than the new TXS 18 it feels lighter and and just suits me better, a drill a surgeon would use. Although smaller the TXS 18 sounds and feels rough. If I need to travel light then the TXS 18 is ideal single drill, I just don't love it like the T18.

 

[onocoffee]

Since we're on the topic of drills, what do you guys think between the older PDC and the current TPC. Is there any reason to consider the PDC over the TPC?

 

[Buccaneer]

Since we're on the topic of drills, what do you guys think between the older PDC and the current TPC. Is there any reason to consider the PDC over the TPC?

Price (there were some good deals over the last couple of years if you could find them) and size. I have the the old protool version of the PDC, it has served well. I also have the TPC and it's got more grunt and also has the kick back protection which is great for protecting your wrists. The PDC is slimmer and less of a beast, and has more metal parts (gearbox front), the TPC introduced more plastic. TPC if you are doing heavy torque work (it seemed to replace both the corded DR20 and PDC), PDC is a lighter great all round drill with high rpm, back 10 years ago the PDC with a CXS would have covered all needs quite well.

 

[Ace8]

Price (there were some good deals over the last couple of years if you could find them) and size. I have the the old protool version of the PDC, it has served well. I also have the TPC and it's got more grunt and also has the kick back protection which is great for protecting your wrists. The PDC is slimmer and less of a beast, and has more metal parts (gearbox front), the TPC introduced more plastic. TPC if you are doing heavy torque work (it seemed to replace both the corded DR20 and PDC), PDC is a lighter great all round drill with high rpm, back 10 years ago the PDC with a CXS would have covered all needs quite well.

One problem with the older versions is the gearbox (switch). But overall amazing drill and very well build!