HELP! I have been comissioned to build a table that requires a Domino 700 in the Seattle area. I have a 500 but its not going to "cut it" and I don't have the resouces ($1,400) or work to rationize buying another Domino. Total time involved will be about an hour. You will be compensated.
Domino 700 in NW?
- Thread starter mummy
- Start date
I'm too far away to loan you my DF700 but, with the DF500 you could use your 10mm cutter and then extend the length of the cut with a chisel to give you a pretty sturdy M&T joint using an integral tenon on the mating piece. Are you doing apron to leg joints?
Jack
Jack
Jack,
I have previously tried your suggested technique with mediocre results, the fit has to be precise. I am adding Wenge "breadboard" ends to two highly figured live edge slabs in order to extend the length of the table. The material is 2 3/8" thick and the joints are primarily endgrain to endgrain, actually, there are curves to make it all the more fun. At the outboard edges I need a really strong (deep) floating tenon to support the cantilever. The Wenge tenons will be pinned in order to pull the pieces together while allowing lateral movement from expansion/contraction. The 14mm domino mortise would be close to an ideal solution.
Unfortunately I can't figure out how to attach a photo for clairification.
I have previously tried your suggested technique with mediocre results, the fit has to be precise. I am adding Wenge "breadboard" ends to two highly figured live edge slabs in order to extend the length of the table. The material is 2 3/8" thick and the joints are primarily endgrain to endgrain, actually, there are curves to make it all the more fun. At the outboard edges I need a really strong (deep) floating tenon to support the cantilever. The Wenge tenons will be pinned in order to pull the pieces together while allowing lateral movement from expansion/contraction. The 14mm domino mortise would be close to an ideal solution.
Unfortunately I can't figure out how to attach a photo for clairification.
With a 2 3/8" thick top I can see why your looking to borrow the 700 Domino. Keep in mind that before the "Domino" we still cut these kind of joints mostly with slot mortising machines but also with drills, chisels and other hand tools. When approaching a technique that I haven't used before, I make mock ups and practice and make my screwup's on cheaper wood until I get to where I have some confidence with the technique.
Like I said, if you were closer I'd loan you my DF700, I hope somebody closer to you will respond.
Jack
Like I said, if you were closer I'd loan you my DF700, I hope somebody closer to you will respond.
Jack
nclemmons
Member
To add a photo, when editing a message, click on the 'Additional Options' link in the lower left corner below the edit text field area.
In that section you will see an 'Attach:' Choose File option to select a photo. You can then add additional photos by clicking on the text that says 'more attachments'.
See the screen cap attached. Hope this helps.
neil
In that section you will see an 'Attach:' Choose File option to select a photo. You can then add additional photos by clicking on the text that says 'more attachments'.
See the screen cap attached. Hope this helps.
neil
Attachments
mummy said:
Hi, I'm new to the domino 500 (had mine for about 1 month) but I had a thought after reading your post. I may be way off on this suggestion as I have limited experience with the domino so don't be afraid to shoot me down on this one.
Using the domino 500 set at the middle domino width (6mm wider than loose tenon), the 10mm cutter and depth of 25mm, set your fence to cut the mortise just above center of the wood thickness. Make the cut then move the fence up another 4mm (effectively moving the cutter down 4mm) and make a second cut on the same mark. This should give you a mortise of 14mm thick X 30mm wide X 25mm deep. To get it deeper use a 1/2" drill bit. Now you should be able to use one of the XL 14mm tenons. Make all your first cuts before you move the fence for the second cut. Use a scrap piece to test the fence settings between the first and second cuts.
hopper,
you have outlined my backup process. I have done several tests with OK but not exceptional results. The figured Maple is very hard and twisted which makes paring difficult (yes, my chisels are very sharp). Given that the pinned tenon will float in the mortise I cannot rely on glue to fill internal voids. The mortises need to be atleast 2 1/2" to 3" deep and dead perpundicular. I could do the whole thing old school but would like to simplify the process (and lower the stress level) by utilizing the Domino 700.
I will attempt to attach a couple of photos, thanks to direction from neilc.
you have outlined my backup process. I have done several tests with OK but not exceptional results. The figured Maple is very hard and twisted which makes paring difficult (yes, my chisels are very sharp). Given that the pinned tenon will float in the mortise I cannot rely on glue to fill internal voids. The mortises need to be atleast 2 1/2" to 3" deep and dead perpundicular. I could do the whole thing old school but would like to simplify the process (and lower the stress level) by utilizing the Domino 700.
I will attempt to attach a couple of photos, thanks to direction from neilc.
Attachments
hopper,
Thank you. I'll post a photo of the dry fit Wenge breadboards later. Years ago (25 to 30) my neighbor was a timber faller, when he came across a specium in the forest he would fall it and we would go up on the weekend and slab it (think 56" bars freehand) and pack the filches out. Seems like it was never above the road so we were always packing up hill and in the snow (least wise that's my memory). I stickered and air dried them on the ground level of the Barn (I live and work in a 100 year old barn) and then milled them with a router sled I built about 20 years ago (time consuming but this way I get the max cross section out of the slab). I do a fair amount of live edge work, many times I use a highly figured live edge piece for the top of a more conventional cabinet or table.
Stagered 10 mm are my plan for the intermediate joints but the outboard tenons need to be at least 2 1/2" deep, would actually prefer 3" to 3 1/2" because you know someone is going to lift by or sit on the end someday.
Attached photo of a recent coffee table commission showing how the figured maple pops with Waterlox.
Thank you. I'll post a photo of the dry fit Wenge breadboards later. Years ago (25 to 30) my neighbor was a timber faller, when he came across a specium in the forest he would fall it and we would go up on the weekend and slab it (think 56" bars freehand) and pack the filches out. Seems like it was never above the road so we were always packing up hill and in the snow (least wise that's my memory). I stickered and air dried them on the ground level of the Barn (I live and work in a 100 year old barn) and then milled them with a router sled I built about 20 years ago (time consuming but this way I get the max cross section out of the slab). I do a fair amount of live edge work, many times I use a highly figured live edge piece for the top of a more conventional cabinet or table.
Stagered 10 mm are my plan for the intermediate joints but the outboard tenons need to be at least 2 1/2" deep, would actually prefer 3" to 3 1/2" because you know someone is going to lift by or sit on the end someday.
Attached photo of a recent coffee table commission showing how the figured maple pops with Waterlox.
Attachments
Similar threads
