Domino centers that work like the dowel centers?

[ChuckM]

A Picture can be more descriptive than many words:
[attachimg=1]
The only marking needed on the two pieces would be the blue line, the rest is done with fence height setting and by indexing with the pins.

The cross stops (498590) can also come handy at times.

PS: Some dowel center marker clones would be IMHO a step back from how the domino is intended to be used.

Gregor

Gregor,

Thanks for the graphic work. Yours sounds more promising. But the face of the hexagonal post to be mortised is at an angle to the registration face/edge. Does that mean one needs to angle the fence to cut the mortises on the post to match the ones already cut on the legs?

If your solution doesn't require me to use an angled fence, please elaborate a little more for me.

By the way, my DJ has paddles rather than pins.

Chuck

 

[ChuckM]

Like Cheese, my thinking is to do all the joinery I can while the components are still square. I then shape around the joinery.

Yes, that would be a better way but as I explained, it isn't that easy to cut out a hexagonal or it could be an octagonal stock such that the mortises already cut would end up centered on each face.

In fact, simply cutting a hexagonal or octagonal post itself on the tablesaw isn't an easy task. Not only does it require a correct saw settings (proper blade height, proper distance from the fence, e.g.) but also a properly tuned tablesaw (60* (not 59.5*, for example), fence truly in alignment with the blade, etc.).

I would study the use of stops as outlined by Clark further.

Chuck

 

[Gregor]

But the face of the hexagonal post to be mortised is at an angle to the registration face/edge. Does that mean one needs to angle the fence to cut the mortises on the post to match the ones already cut on the legs?

The Domino is made to cut mortices

• perpendicular to the surface of the face you make the mortice in
• parallel to an registration edge of that face
• indexed on a reference mark righted to the registration edge
• or (should you use the pins/paddles) indexed to a recess in the face, be it another already made mortice or the end of the workpiece

Procedure is:
[list type=decimal]
[*]set the depth and width, set the fence to (first, with fence fixed in park position to avoid twisting) desired height, then adjust the fence to the angle of the registration edge
[*]register with both faces (fence and the plate where the pins are and the cutter comes through) flat on the two faces of the workpiece that meet at the registration edge
[*]use the view window with the scale or the pins/paddles to index
[*]hold the machine by the handle on the fence (slightly, don't overdo, pushing away from the registration edge toward the handle) and the machine should be fixed firmly in place and flatly register both faces of the Domino to the workpiece by its own weight
[*]do the plunge in a single pass by pushing the back of the machine inwards
[/list]
And never forget to use dust collection.

If your solution doesn't require me to use an angled fence, please elaborate a little more for me.

Where exaxtly is your problem with the angled fence?

The Domino is made to be used that way: Clamp the workpiece down so the side you register the fence against is at the top, then follow the steps above and you should be somewhat guaranteed to get a clean, perpendicular plunge at the desired location - independant of the corner angle (up to 90°) of the reference edge.

Shown with a picture of the 700 XL (borrowed from Michael Hild's introduction of the Domino) marked with the same colors as in the other picture of mine (just tune the fence to the angle of your registration edge on the workpiece), should give an idea how to setup for your job:
[attachimg=1]
So always plan and do the mortices so that their axis are righted both ways to the face they're in. this is what the Domino was created for.

By the way, my DJ has paddles rather than pins.

Older or newer model (or 500/700) should not make a difference on useage.

Gregor

 

[ChuckM]

Great explanation, Gregor.

Printing the whole thread out so I can study it in depth while on the plane. Thanks everyone for your patience and thought-provoking ideas and solutions, some of which can be used in other situations other than this particular joinery setting.

I will get back on this thread after my trip.

Chuck