I suspect the problem you're having is not the tool, but the loose nut operating (in my case ME).
Cutting mortises in side grain of parts to be edge joined lends itself to a common, and not necessarily easily recognized, mistake - when what you THINK you're doing and what you are ACTUALLY doing aren't the same.
If your part thickness is less than twice the distance from the bottom of the base of the tool - and you're registering the tool NOT of the underside of the fence on the top of the board - but off the surface the part is resting on and thus off the bottom of the tool - mortises off the two different reference surfaces won't line up.
The other loose nut source of error is
a) gripping the very back of the barrel of the tool rather than more foreward, closer to the action.
b) pressing the barell of the tool up or down as you make the plunging cut.
Before you go really honkin' down on a clamp handle, or "fixin'" the tool or machine - make sure the problem is not do to The Loose Nut.
charlie b
Cutting mortises in side grain of parts to be edge joined lends itself to a common, and not necessarily easily recognized, mistake - when what you THINK you're doing and what you are ACTUALLY doing aren't the same.
If your part thickness is less than twice the distance from the bottom of the base of the tool - and you're registering the tool NOT of the underside of the fence on the top of the board - but off the surface the part is resting on and thus off the bottom of the tool - mortises off the two different reference surfaces won't line up.
The other loose nut source of error is
a) gripping the very back of the barrel of the tool rather than more foreward, closer to the action.
b) pressing the barell of the tool up or down as you make the plunging cut.
Before you go really honkin' down on a clamp handle, or "fixin'" the tool or machine - make sure the problem is not do to The Loose Nut.
charlie b