Domino wings inacurate

Mike35x95x1

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Sep 10, 2020
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Right and left wing do not have same distance to the center. Does anybody have the same problem?
 

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no they probably don't.
mine didnt. you're supposed to calibrate them. it's kind of a pain but they do keep their calibration
 
If you look closely, there's 4 crossed lines on the face of each pin, and they're in an eccentric cam of sorts.  Press the pin in and use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate them closer or further from the body of the tool to adjust.

Mine were off slightly (very obvious when running a line of mortises left-to-right vs right-to-left), but I found the right combination of rotating the pin adjuster on each to get them close enough to not matter over 5 or 6 mortises.

I've stopped using them and just mark lines instead, but they're handy when they work.

 
I found video on youtube called How to calibrate the Festool Domino”. I looks exactly as my problem - it’s not the wings actualy - its the plastic centric ruler. 🙄
 
Mike35x95x1 said:
I found this video. I looks like xactly as my problem.


Fixed the link (you have to use the youtube.com link, not the youtu.be link)

In any case, that may be the error, it may also be miscalibrated wings.

There are plenty of videos from Halfinchshy, Sedgetool, and others on how to get all of that squared away, as you likely have found.

Test cuts will definitely point you in the direction of the error, but I would still test the extensions even once you get the window calibrated.
 
squall_line said:
If you look closely, there's 4 crossed lines on the face of each pin, and they're in an eccentric cam of sorts.  Press the pin in and use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate them closer or further from the body of the tool to adjust.

Mine were off slightly (very obvious when running a line of mortises left-to-right vs right-to-left), but I found the right combination of rotating the pin adjuster on each to get them close enough to not matter over 5 or 6 mortises.

I've stopped using them and just mark lines instead, but they're handy when they work.

I do draw lines manually but it's rediculous to do so with such an expensive tool. I want to fix it and will do anything to make it working…  [mad]
 
Mike35x95x1 said:
I do draw lines manually but it's rediculous to do so with such an expansive tool. I want to fix it and will do anything to make it working…  [mad]

Not really, it's horses for courses and what you find easiest or best. I'm the same as squall_line also as I almost never use the wings as just marking out is far faster and is still dead accurate for me.
 
After further investigation I (logically) came to the conclusion that calibrating the middle plastic ruler will not solve the wing problem because when using the reference pins I do not use the central line at all.

Have to ask Festool support about this.
 
Like others have said, you can adjust the pin position - there are guides online.

Make sure the assembly with the pin and clamp is attached the "wing" properly.  There is a saw tooth type pattern on the wing and notches in the pin assembly to make a positive connection.

You may want to practice using the domino cross stops.  I found them awkward at first because the pins can catch on saw dust.  It's also possible to apply too much lateral pressure (forcing the DF500 left or right) and then the plastic cross stop bends.

I think I've seen a Sedge video where he uses the cross stops with the mortice set on the middle width setting.
Cut one mortice on each face on the tight setting - this gives you a reference to line up the end face.  Then cut ALL THE OTHER mortices on the middle width setting using the cross stop to set the distance from the first tight mortice and then step off the one  you just cut.  That way any miss registration gets "absorbed" by the mortice slot.

Regards
Bob
 
Hi, everyone; I had a visit from an FT service guy in my workshop (I love the level of FT services), and he showed me how to calibrate the cross stop. The whole magic is that the pins are eccentric. There is a small 2mm hex thread on the side. After loosening the thread, the pin can be pulled out and turned. The pin is stored in an eccentric thread, so turning it moves the pin off-center. He also pointed out that with the Domino 500 there is a replacement plastic spring-loaded pin that replaces the existing plastic pins that are part of the Domino's own body. I've found it in a small plastic bag. This is because they've had a problem with the side stopping moving over time, so they fixed it by replacing it with a smaller one. It's not rocket science, but it would be nice to have better documentation and, ideally, explanatory videos. It is also essential to know that the FT does not guarantee 100% accuracy with the cross stop, and therefore, they recommend using it by making one tight hole and continuing with the cross stop with the middle or largest looser hole. There is more tolerance for these holes so it shouldn't be a problem... 🤷‍♂️ Sorry for my English - technical stuff is always a challenge for non-native speakers. Hope it is understandable and it helps.
 
bobtskutter said:
You may want to practice using the domino cross stops.  I found them awkward at first because the pins can catch on saw dust. It's also possible to apply too much lateral pressure (forcing the DF500 left or right) and then the plastic cross stop bends.

Bob

    Yes, I too have found this to cause spacing creep. The tendency is to pull the pin tight against the previous mortise in order to ensure the registration. But it is easy to not even realize that a very small amount of flex is occurring, something around 1/2mm - 1mm. That tiny bit adds up when doing a row.  I have had this happen even when using the first one tight then going to wide setting. 

    Once I realized what was happening it was easy to place the pin snug against the mortise and then just not pull tighter.

Seth
 
I've noticed this creep isn't as much of a problem (at least for me) when you do not pull the pin tight to the side of the mortise, but push the wing until the pin is snug against the wall of the mortise. I haven't taken the time to check this, but it might be that the flex is coming from bending the wing and not from moving the pin itself. Or it might be that I just apply less force when I place the pin like this...  [huh]
 
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