Dovetail Jigs

iamnothim

iamnothim

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Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Messages
1,436
I've had an OF 1400, CMS table, and LR32 for some time.
I'm building the lowers for the blue pine garage and I'll be making my first drawers.

Sidebar.
I finished the drawer cabinet today and I installed the Blum Tandem plus rails before I assembled that cabinet.
I was able to use the LR32 to line at the rail holes on the sides.  I drilled them, attached the rails and then assembled the cabinet sides.  Between the LR32 and indexed dominos the alignment was spot on.  I couldn't see sticking my head inside a box for hours screwing in drawer rails.

Back to dovetails....
I made one drawer box using 3/4 pre-finished maple sides and a 1/2" pre-finished maple bottom.  Note:  The Whiteside nominal side plywood bit set is great!

So I made the box using dominos..... (so-so)  I was looking around for some nice stock to make a 10mm cap for the top edges of the boxes.  I pulled out a nice piece of Caribbean Pine I forgot I had and I said "Dam (Note to Moderator and PC auto correction system:  "Dam" is a thing that holds back water)  I said "Dam that would make a nice drawer box"  If so dovetails would be a must.

So now there's a huge cost over run.  Dovetail jig.
I actually did a search before starting this thread.  There were a lot of Leigh jig for sale threads and 4-5 years back some discussion of PC and another of Leigh.

Until I read that thread I had never heard of Leigh and I don't think the "super series" was out.  I thought the go to product was the PC for $120.  The 12" Leigh Super 12 is $275  But it looks pretty versatile.

Dear friends
Please educate me.

Thanks

Luke

ps:  I should have taken some LR32 pics.  Next time.

[attachimg=1]

 

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I have the Leigh D4R Pro. great jig.

Plywood does not dovetail well, tends to chip.

The 12 should serve you very well.

Tom
 
iamnothim said:
tjbnwi said:
I have the Leigh D4R Pro. great jig.

Plywood does not dovetail well, tends to chip.
Click to expand...
really?

tjbnwi said:
The 12 should serve you very well.

Tom
Click to expand...

So the Super 12 over the PC ?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have no reason to lie to you.

I prefer the Leigh jigs due to their adjustability.

Tom
 
I have the DR4, get the VRS to manage the chips. Great setup with the 1010, you can crank when it's set up.
If I am making shop drawers with plywood, dovetails are not necessary (... hardly necessary in any case) a simple rabbet joint works wonders faster to make, and they hold up to abuse. Try a lock rabbet joint if you don't like the look of a simple rabbet.
Never used the PC jig but Norm Abrams and some others have made some fine drawers with it.
Never tried to dovetail plywood. Baltic birch may work.
Tim
 
I have the Super 12 which I like very much. I bought the accessory kit as well which comes with a very good dust collection system.
I have used it for drawers, boxes, sliding dovetails on stools, foot stools, cat scratching platforms, you get the idea.
The only problem is that I only have a 3hp monster Makita router to use with it, heavy and complete overkill. I really need the OF1010  [big grin]
 
D4RPro is on my shopping list, as well as the Isoloc templates and VRS. Not saying that's what you need, but I've done a lot of research and I consider it to be the best option available. The 12 would be perfect if you just wanted to do normal drawers, etc.
 
As usual I didn't say what I was try'n ta say.   
It was not my intension to dovetail plywood

I was looking at the Carribean Heartwood and thinking it wood make a nice drawer box.... with dovetails. 

My bad

Thanks for the advise.  I was about to ask about the VRS
 
Kev said:
D4RPro is on my shopping list, as well as the Isoloc templates and VRS. Not saying that's what you need, but I've done a lot of research and I consider it to be the best option available. The 12 would be perfect if you just wanted to do normal drawers, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kev

Since this is my first set of boxes th 12 should last me a few years

Luke
 
I had a PC Omnijig for years and sold it in favor of the Leigh D4R-Pro mostly for the ability to do variably spaced dovetails. 

The Omnijig worked well and was built like a tank but required you to adjust your drawer height in fixed increments to get even spacing of the dovetails.  I think the new PC was supposed to fix this limitation but I've never tried it.

I know a lot of production guys like the Keller jigs for their simplicity.  http://www.kellerdovetail.com/index.html

For most workshop cabinets, I'd recommend a good drawer lock bit but I have to say your blue pine build is amazing and probably deserves better.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/whiteside-drawer-lock-router-bit.aspx

By the way, thanks for the compliment about my dog in another thread.  He's a white lab.
 
I have the Keller jig.  They advertise that it can be dead on (or words to that effect) with the first setup.  with considerable skepticism, I proceeded to set up and tried making my first drawer using it.  No fooling!  That turned out to be "dead on" with no adjustment needed.  I don't make dovetailed drawers very often, as it is much faster, and i have read somewhere, much stronger to do the locking rabbet.  I am completely reorganizing my shop and have many drawers in the plan.  I am hoping to get more practice with thru and half blind DT's.  The Keller jig should get a lot more use ahead.
Tinker
 
I just bought the super 12 last week. I haven't had the time to make any drawers with it yet, but I did make a few test pieces. Works great from what I can tell so far, and the instructions are amazing. Just by following them exactly, I had a dovetail that pretty much fit just right on the first try. Very impressed with Leigh.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
I have the DR4, get the VRS to manage the chips. Great setup with the 1010, you can crank when it's set up.
If I am making shop drawers with plywood, dovetails are not necessary (... hardly necessary in any case) a simple rabbet joint works wonders faster to make, and they hold up to abuse. Try a lock rabbet joint if you don't like the look of a simple rabbet.
Never used the PC jig but Norm Abrams and some others have made some fine drawers with it.
Never tried to dovetail plywood. Baltic birch may work.
Tim
Click to expand...

Tim,
I opened "The Joint Book" and looked up locking rabbet.  I think that's the ticket for these drawers.

If I decide to build some furniture I'll get a jig then.  Thanks for the suggestion.
Luke

I guess I should crank up the BP Garage thread again.  I have a really loony idea for the drawer fronts.  Not sure I'll go there.  It's one of those ideas that will either look amazing or like a 2nd grader did it.

Below is a pic I took with my Nikon rather than an iPhone.  It's for a friend that builds furniture and has a client interested in BP.

[attachimg=1]
 

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I have been looking at dovetail jigs as well. I have been looking into the incra ls positioning setup and it does all the dovetail/ box joints ect. Anyone use one or made a table and used the fence? If so would love to hear your opinions and pictures. Sorry if this is high jacking the thread if so please feel free to move or delete.
 
I highly recommend the Leigh jigs.  I have a Super 18.  I previously had a PC and made the switch to be able to cut variable spaced dovetails.  The jig works very well and the instructions are well written and easy to follow.  It goes into great detail including, for example, how to move the router through the cut of each dovetail to minimize tearout. 

The VRS for both dust collection and for the added support it provides to the router while making passes is a must have accessory.
 
I had the Craftsman 12" Dovetail jig which is great and simple to use for half blind dovetails.  I got the older model Leigh D-1258 - 24" jig to do wider pieces but didn't get around to using it much but, I did keep upgrading it with; the new hold down clamps, etc until it comes close to the new D4.  Last year I got the Leigh VRS Vacuum and Router Support kilt and that made a world of difference to me since I no longer have to put up with a blast of wood chips on my cloths, bench and shop.  The VRS used with my CT22 and a 36mm Festool hose collects about 90% of the dust/chips when cutting dovetails and the way it's constructed aids in keeping your router steady while routing.

https://www.leighjigs.com/vrs.php

Jack
 
The Leigh jigs are the best out there and their manuals are fantastic.  I bought the FMT Pro with bit and accessory set back when the financial world dissolved, got both for $750.00, currently $1189.00 for the jig alone, whole ball of wax now $1900.00+.  Also have the DR-4 and the F-3 finger joint templates, bits and vacuum with the router support.  The variability offered by their products is on par with the Festools.
 
I have a Gifkins jig which i find perfect for drawers.A little different in that you take the work to your router table not take a router to the work.

I bought it at a wood show many years ago and although have only used it very rarely it works as advertised and is extremely accurate.

May not be the best but very good and easy to set and use.You will be making your drawers with this 10 mins after opening the box.

http://gifkins.com.au/product-category/jig-packages/

Here is a link to a local Canberra craftsman who uses different versions of the Gifkins jig in producing his work so good quality results are more than possible.

http://www.scottmitchelldesign.com.au/products.htm
 
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