Dovetail Jigs

Larso said:
I have a Gifkins jig which i find perfect for drawers.A little different in that you take the work to your router table not take a router to the work.

I bought it at a wood show many years ago and although have only used it very rarely it works as advertised and is extremely accurate.

May not be the best but very good and easy to set and use.You will be making your drawers with this 10 mins after opening the box.

http://gifkins.com.au/product-category/jig-packages/

Here is a link to a local Canberra craftsman who uses different versions of the Gifkins jig in producing his work so good quality results are more than possible.

http://www.scottmitchelldesign.com.au/products.htm
I almost picked one if those up a while back - just didn't have an immediate need and was in an unusually practical mindset!

I think they're perfect for regular drawers using a router table.
 
Whichever Dovetail jig you purchase, don't minimize the importance of dust control.  A router cutting dovetail joints throws a lot of dust/chips to the point where without the Leigh VRS I would rather cut the joint by hand.

Jack
 
quote >>> I have a Gifkins jig which i find perfect for drawers.A little different in that you take the work to your router table not take a router to the work.
 
Dumb question,

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Festool DT jig? I've seen a few of them for sale and wondered why.
 
iamnothim said:
waho6o9 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dovetail-Jig-Fixture-PLAN-/291417637820?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d9d843bc

How about making a jig for around 18.00 through a plan from ebay?

Something to consider anyways, and judging how fine your work bench turned out

I think this jig would be awesome as well.

Wahoo !

An interesting idea but I think there's $100 of hardware in that.  When you add the time it becomes a Super 12.
Thanks much

I have those plans, a guy on a woodworking forum I'm on designed it and gave them to me. The hardware isn't that expensive, just some t track and cam clamps from Rockler.
 
jobsworth said:
Dumb question,

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Festool DT jig? I've seen a few of them for sale and wondered why.

I had a really good look at the VS600 and thought about it long and hard ... I just can't spend that sort of money in comparison to the Leigh gear. There's not even anything "system" about the VS600 that would sway me.
 
I seen them used for sale at a pretty good price.

I just haven't had good luck with dovetail jigs. I've spent more time setting the jigs up then actually doing the work.

 
jobsworth said:
I seen them used for sale at a pretty good price.

I just haven't had good luck with dovetail jigs. I've spent more time setting the jigs up then actually doing the work.

In that case you're the kind of creature [smile] the VS600 is made for .. throw the timber in, wham - bam, you got dovetails!! The extra guides give you some flexibility, sadly each guide is the price of a bargain priced dovetail jig (and Leigh are even more expensive).

The Leigh is where you go if you want to imitate hand cut IMO.
 
That's me buddy and chimp with tools  [eek]

Im wanting to learn hand cut dovetails. But they would be for Shaker Style Furniture that I really like.

Anything machine would be for production type things like kitchen/ shop  drawers etc. so then I'll keep my eye out for a used VS 600..

Just wanted to make sure that I wouldn't be buying a turkey. I bought to many of them in I my day.
 
A Wood Rat, or the later developed Router Boss can do all sorts of DT's along with lots of other joints.  I have done both thru DT's and half blinds with only one set up.  It does take some time to set up and it took a lot of experimenting before i got the combo thru's and half blinds to come out right on the same boards.  I only did that once and don't remember exactly how i did it.  I have done each type on separate projects tho.  Also can to other joints as well which i have not tried. No jigs necessary, but it s possible to make jigs to increase repeatability.  I do have several jigs i made up, but those take up a lot of space. The learning curve is somewhat of a turn-off and i need to study my booklet every time i want to do DT's with the WR.  The joints i have made do end up looking close to handmade, but tat is not the fault of the WR  ::).

I have made thru DT's with different sized tails on same board.  That is fun, but I tend to make more mistooks when i try that.  If I used the WR more often, it would be less problematic. 

The biggest problem is DC.  That is the main reason I don't use it more.  If I need to make a joint i cannot do any other way, i go to the WR and do some figuring.  I won't thro it away, no matter how many problems i find.
Tinker 
 
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