Dowel Centers

[womackdesign]

Anybody know a good source for some machined Dowel Centers maybe in brass for marking very accurate pin locations in a stack lamination. I have checked a few places Lee Valley, Tools for Woodworking. I appreciate any help. Thanks. Chad 

 

[Gary Nichols]

Chad,

The two sets I have are turned aluminum, not brass and made by General Hardware MFG. CO.,Inc., NO. 888. I bought them at the local Ace Hardware. Two each of 1/2", 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4"..... Can't say I've ever seen any brass dowel centers....

Gary

 

[bruegf]

http://www.amazon.com/Best-Way-Tools-Dowel-Center/dp/B000CMFZ1A

Fred

 

[womackdesign]

Hi. Thanks for the advice on the Dowel Centers.  I have the General ones but am looking for something more accurate like a metalworking center punch.  It needs to  accurately fits the hole diameter and have a sharp hard point.  I was hoping somebody like Bridge City Tool works or Richard Kell in England would make something like this.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

May I ask what type of work requires such a level of precision and accuracy?  I have used the commonly available aluminum centers to make many doweled cabinet door frames (of solid wood) and have never had any problems with mismatch of the joined members.  Only a little face sanding has ever been required.  I use my Shopsmith as a horizontal boring machine with the finish face side always down on the table to ensure consistent distance of the bored holes from the finish face.  Without some sort of jig or fixture, I would think that no matter how accurately you mark and center punch the holes, in wood you are likely to get some wandering of the drill bit due to the anisotropic nature of wood.

Dave R.

 

[womackdesign]

Dave, Thanks for your interest. I am  gluing up a toprail of a curved door jam in solid oak. Three pieces machined net on a shaper pattern about four feet long with a 9' radius. I have to glue them up to 5.5" thick and mortise the hinge and lock stile into it. There are also curved radius end parts that are fitted into the left and right ends of the top rail that create the top jam of the side lights. I wanted to cut the double tenon mortises for the hinge and lock stiles into the top rail before I assembled it so I thought I would dowel pin it in place before I marked it out for the joinery. The door that I am making that fits the frame is 96"x40"width 2.375 thick solid quatersawn White Oak. Curved Top with 6 panels. Separate panels front and back for  a total of 12 panels. It is Neoclassical with Spanish Baroque mouldings and weighs approx 250lbs. I don't use dowels often but I thought they might help in this pre-assembly situation of the top frame rail. Chad