Drill Accessories

[Deansocial]

i believe the right name is posidriv with no e.

I have the depth stop couter sink but use it just for the depth stop and 3.5mm bit for pioleting compact laminate 12mm sheet 11mm deep hole.
I just ordered 2 solid carbide drillbits for it at £5 each, will report back what they are like

 

[MacMitch]

Wow those GRKFasteners are nice,

Wish I had known about them before we started pre drilling all the holes & counter sinks in 2x2's, Choice Decking, Trex last week. But then there is still a bunch of decking & 2x2's to attach. Can one actually place those screws in "plastic" decking & or narrow wood (2x2) without pre drilling or countersinking?

It is hard to tell what those screws cost though, looks like they may be selling them by the lb.? I should probably just buy them without comparing prices to what I use now. If I know the price difference....

The video of the guy trying to rip up the head of one of the Torx head screws was enlightening in terms of understanding why people may be fans of that particular head type.

 

[Deansocial]

well my carbide bit never turned up grrrrr

 

[jmbfestool]

I like many types of screws  but i mainly use ultimates

1 i love den
2. My local dealer only sells crap screws so I have to go to my local timber merchant which only sells ultimates.
3. Spax are the next screws local to me but they are sold in focus and I don't often go der.
4 all other screws I have to order from ironmongery or some other website.

So ultimates are good and easy for me to get hold off. I just bought loads last well cost me £300  they are not cheap I tell ya

The video I did on the other topic makita va bosh  I am using ultimates  and at the end of the video you can see how well the screws hold in the bits.

Bosch VS Makita 10.8V

Jmb

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Can one actually place those screws in "plastic" decking & or narrow wood (2x2) without pre drilling or countersinking?

It is hard to tell what those screws cost though, looks like they may be selling them by the lb.? I should probably just buy them without comparing prices to what I use now. If I know the price difference....

These are the GRK's you want for composite lumber:  RT Composite Screws, they come in SS as well.  You can buy them in different quantities, I find the Propak is a good option.  Available through several vendors on Amazon.

 

[MacMitch]

I saw those composite deck screws, nice. Although I think the "plain old" R4's are much better for decks than what the Depot offers.

I ran out to Highland Hardware/Woodworking this PM and picked up a T-15, BSTA HS 3.5 mm countersink/drill & a BHS 65 CE bit/screw driver holder. If the weather clears tomorrow I can get to work laying down some decking, stair treads, hand rails....I guess I will suffer along with the old Depot decking screws until I can get some GRKFasteners. Highland Hardware did not have the Festool Torx bits.

I have been trying to figure out what size Torx bits I might need. I think maybe sizes 20, 25, 30 ? I have an assortment of the short ones with hex shafts. I expect I will end up wanting 100mm driver bits to fit 1 1/2 to 3" GRK screws

 

[RONWEN]

Can one actually place those screws in "plastic" decking & or narrow wood (2x2) without pre drilling or countersinking?

It is hard to tell what those screws cost though, looks like they may be selling them by the lb.? I should probably just buy them without comparing prices to what I use now. If I know the price difference....

These are the GRK's you want for composite lumber:  RT Composite Screws, they come in SS as well.  You can buy them in different quantities, I find the Propak is a good option.  Available through several vendors on Amazon.

I wonder how those screws (or similar) might work for eliminating squeaks in floors -- coming from below in the basement, diagonal through floor joists into the sub-floor & under layment??? 

 

[jmbfestool]

Can one actually place those screws in "plastic" decking & or narrow wood (2x2) without pre drilling or countersinking?

It is hard to tell what those screws cost though, looks like they may be selling them by the lb.? I should probably just buy them without comparing prices to what I use now. If I know the price difference....

These are the GRK's you want for composite lumber:  RT Composite Screws, they come in SS as well.  You can buy them in different quantities, I find the Propak is a good option.  Available through several vendors on Amazon.

I wonder how those screws (or similar) might work for eliminating squeaks in floors -- coming from below in the basement, diagonal through floor joists into the sub-floor & under layment??? 

Just make sure you dont go through and end up screwing some ones foot to the floor!  OR you wake up for breakfast and try and move your chair but you have screwed it down.

Well I cant see it being easy not going through the lot.  You would have to drill a pilot hole up to the flooring so it does not require much for it to pull it down.  Not sure what the flooring is and how it has been layed but you might stop the floor from moving freely and end up causes problems.

JMB

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Ron,

There's a kit for getting rid of floor sqeaks for carpeted rooms using a pedestal with guide and special screws that drive through carpeting and the subfloor into the joists.  Then you snap the exposed portion off so it's flush with the subfloor.  The product is called Sqweeeeek No More by O'Berry Enterprises.

Otherwise using the appropriate length "deck" screws and an impact driver, install them diagonally on each side of the joist spaced a couple of inches from each other so they don't cross.

If all else fails,  frequent lubrication with WD-40  [big grin] [big grin]

 

[d8b]

I have been trying to figure out what size Torx bits I might need. I think maybe sizes 20, 25, 30 ?

In my work I use mainly T15 and a little T20 bits. I don't do any heavy contruction work tough.

greetz,

Philippe

 

[jmbfestool]

Ron,

There's a kit for getting rid of floor sqeaks for carpeted rooms using a pedestal with guide and special screws that drive through carpeting and the subfloor into the joists.  Then you snap the exposed portion off so it's flush with the subfloor.  The product is called Sqweeeeek No More by O'Berry Enterprises.

Otherwise using the appropriate length "deck" screws and an impact driver, install them diagonally on each side of the joist spaced a couple of inches from each other so they don't cross.

If all else fails,  frequent lubrication with WD-40  [big grin] [big grin]

1. I wouldnt like to use the screw finder to find a joist as I know my luck I would hit a water pipe for sure. I rather pull the carpet up and look for the nails to find the joists.

2. In the past I screwed a oak fresh hold down I just screwed it through the carpet. I tell you that was a big mistake it rapped a bit of carpet thread and it pulled this thread along this entire carpet leaving a line along the room. I have learned to drill a hole in the carpet before screwing through the carpet. Looking at the web site it looks like he's screwing through very cheap carpet. I can promise you u can not screw throughout high quality carpet with out the risk of ruining the entire carpet. So unless you wanna drill loads of holes in your carpet.I wouldn't use it on carpet to risky.

My mate told me he did the same thing so I was glad I wasnt the only one what did a stupid thing. The entire carpet needed replacing proper sucked.

Jmb

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The installation tool is what's pressed down to the floor separating the carpet fibers.  The screw goes thru the tool so it's unlikely that the screw threads would grab carpet fibers and go wild doing the damage you referred to.  If you would like a demonstration, please send a plane ticket, hotel accomodation and some spending money to my anonymous post office box.  When I get a chance, I'll get over to England and show you.  [wink]

 

[jmbfestool]

No probe m8.  I'll av u stay in the guest bedroom to save soome money on accomodation.

Jmb