EHL 65 E Planer

[mlfaber]

I was wondering what the feedback is on this planer?  My objective is to use it for larger boards to get a jointable edge.  So does anyone primarily use this to clean up edges prior to glue up?  I do have a router table but for larger size pieces this seems like a good option.  Also, I do not have a stand alone jointer or even a benchtop and would use this in place of.  Any thoughts and suggestions?  The unit is on clearance so the price seems right but for the $$ I could still get a benchtop in its place.

 

[peter halle]

I can't offer any feedback, but you said that this unit is on clearance. I don't see that. Do you have a dealer who is going out of business?

Peter

 

[Tim Sproul]

So does anyone primarily use this to clean up edges prior to glue up? 

I have one.

It would not be the last tool I reached for but it certainly is nowhere near the first, either.

I've never actually used a hand held portable power planer to clean up edges prior to glue up.  I have used a stationary jointer and hand plane (long bed - 22 to 40 inch length).

 

[jmbfestool]

Same as TimSproul   I aint used a hand held planer to clean a edge for glueing up.    I dont believe its the correct/easiest way to to do this.  

1. keep the edge BANG on square is very difficult especially on narrow pieces.  

2. It often removes more material at the start and end,  this after a few passes can start to create a bow

I believe a planer like the EHL65 is more for planing things like doors to get them to match a bowed frame/lining or floor, fitting shelves,worktops to a wall to scribe to the wall if the wall has a  bow.  Kitchen end panels to a uneven wall etc.  

JMB

 

[Rob-GB]

I have used the EHL65 to joint boards, I had to make wider window boards on site.
I used the same technique as you would using a hand plane, namely clamp the two boards face to face and plane the edges flush to each other. As I wanted to domino the joint I added an MDF fence extension to the EHL's to assist in getting a square joint.
As JMB pointed out end snipe can be an issue, but that also occurrs with free standing jointers quite often so leave the stock over length to negate this and try to keep a constant pressure on the back sole of the plane as one would the outfeed table of a jointer.

A good glue joint can also be produced with a TS55 or TS75 on a guide rail with a sharp blade and there is some debate over whether a sawn or planed glue joint is superior, though neither argument has convinced me one way over the other.

It may take a few practice runs to get the technique down but is possible.

Rob.

 

[Oldwood]

I would say the jointer as a first choice & the Festool track saw as a close second. The power hand plane will give you inconsistent results.
When sawing make sure the blade is sharp & move fast enough to not leave a burnished edge. I would try a couple of boards & do test glue ups then cut them in short lengths & try to break the glue joint if it fails on the joint then you need to alter the procedure or the glue. I use Titebond 2 glue & have had no glue joints fail on the joint.

HTH

Gerry

 

[mlfaber]

I can't offer any feedback, but you said that this unit is on clearance. I don't see that. Do you have a dealer who is going out of business?

Peter

I have a dealer with one on clearance. Also, Jamestown Distributors, online has one for sale. I think I am going to invest in a good quality hand plane instead. Thanks for all of the advice.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

We had one at the show that was in a Classic Systainer.  That is discounted because of the old part number.

 

[GreenGA]

Ahhh, not wonder you kept trying to that Systainer in my hand!  [poke]

Had I known...  [blink]

We had one at the show that was in a Classic Systainer.  That is discounted because of the old part number.