Eliminating saw marks

[AMC]

I'm sure this has been discussed, but I can't find a specific reference to it.

Can I eliminate the saw marks made by my TS55? They show both ways - that is, there's a cross-hatching of teeth marks that were made both by the entry downstroke and the exit upstroke.

I have a TS75 that cuts so smoothly there's virtually no sign of tooth marks at all. The TS55 has been in a CMS unit until recently, and I attributed the marks to some slight misalignment there. Now I've swapped the 75 into the CMS, it still leaves cuts like glass, and the 55 still leaves saw marks cutting from a guide rail.

Is this a skew issue? Or a return-to-warranty issue? And if it's skew, are there any visual pointers on how to adjust it that I can preview?

Matt

 

[Dan Clark]

Matt,

Mine does that too sometimes.  It may be skew, or a warped or dirty blade.  OTOH, it may be wood movement.  I haven't had time to test this, but try clamping the board tightly so that it can't wiggle.  Then make sure your rail is correctly aligned and adjusted so that it's flush to the wood.  See if that helps.

Let us know.

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Matt,

Mine does that too sometimes.  It may be skew, or a warped or dirty blade.  OTOH, it may be wood movement.  I haven't had time to test this, but try clamping the board tightly so that it can't wiggle.  Then make sure your rail is correctly aligned and adjusted so that it's flush to the wood.  See if that helps.

Let us know.

Thanks,

Dan.

It can also be runout of the arbor or simply crud or a burr between the blade and arbor collar. It could be a defective, damaged, or very dirty blade. It could also be too loose a fit of the saw on the guide rail. It can also be a narrow workpiece rocking in the hollow space under the guide rail.

The first thing I'd do is check the fit of the saw on the rail. If the fit is good I'd change blades and be sure the arbor collar and blade are clean. Then, with a fresh clean (or new) blade and a well adjusted saw base, I'd make a test cut on a board that is at least as wide as the guide rail (thicker is better too).

If the cut is still less than it should be, refer to Rick's manual and or call David at the 800 number. Good luck.

 

[AMC]

Thanks for the advice. I don't think it's anything to do with blades or poor blade fit, because I've made several swaps between the fine-tooth and Panther blades over several weeks and the results are always the same - only the Panther blade leaves its marks at a wider spacing. And this has happened over numerous cuts in the CMS and off the rail, on various types of wood. So at least it's consistent  :-\

I might sound it out with Festool. Happily I know what's possible with these saws because I've got the true-cutting TS75.

Matt

 

[greg mann]

The panther blade is more likely to leave marks as there are fewer teeth moving across the board at a relatively faster rate per tooth. Also, the teeth probably are ground with more clearance in them to improve the free cutting action that would be desirable with a ripping blade. This is necessary because the chip formation is different than a crosscut. The chips are longer and stringier as they are parallel to the grain, hence the need for larger chip gullets and fewer teeth. With fewer teeth touching the wood at any given time there is also a greater chance for the blade to destabilize and leave marks. To some degree this is true for any blade on any saw. That said, the quality of cut should still be quite good. Since you are getting good cuts with your TS75 your technique is probably not at fault. Check out some of the things that Michael detailed  and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Dongar]

I have a TS 55 and a ATF 55 and both of them give very rough cuts with my panther blade. Because of this I don't use it at all. I checked the alignment and it was fine and my other blades work perfectly. It also ruined the antisplinter edge by cutting it at least 1/32" more then the other blades
Donald

 

[AMC]

Except I get the same effect with fine-tooth and Panther blades. Only the pattern size differs, and that's because of the teeth. Something else is afoot.

Matt

 

[Dongar]

Matt
I had the same thing happen once on my older saw and it turned out to be wear in the saw guide bushings.I readjusted them and it fixed the problem.Maybe this could be your problem? Or you could have a problem with the arbor or flange or probably less likely two bad blades.Hope you figure it out.
Donald

 

[AMC]

Until recently, this saw had spent the few months I've owned it sitting stationary in the CMS I bought with it. I've only just started using it on a guide rail, so bush wear shouldn't be a problem. I wondered about them, though, and fiddled with the cams, but it didn't make any difference.

I've checked the fit with the guide rail, looked at the arbour for crud, and otherwise pondered it, but all I can come up with is the possibility of north-south skew. But then, wouldn't this leave bite marks from either fore or aft of the saw blade, and not both?

Matt

 

[Loren Hedahl]

Since the saw marks are crossing, I would place my bets on a blade wobble problem. 

About the only way I know of to verify this is to measure it with a dial indicator.  It might take some doing to set up for measuring on a saw of this type, but I'm sure it can be done.  You would need to measure both vertical and lateral run-out of the blade and of the arbor before deciding on the culprit and what might need to be done about it.

In the meantime, just break out your trusty Lie Nielson or Stanley and a quick stroke or three should polish everything up to your satisfaction.

With the Festool saws, the blade is very well protected since the saw is in the up-plunge position except when cutting.  So I wouldn't think rough handling would be the cause. 

But heat, i.e., uneven heating is a definite suspect.    To reduce this you want to keep the blade turning anytime it is plunged.  If the blade stops when still in the cut, heat will build-up on the area of the blade that is still in the cut.

My problem is I have bad habits from the old "Skill Saw" days and sometimes forget.  Festool saws are much more precise but I have to set myself up with a different mind-set to get the most out of them.

Loren

 

[Ned]

It can also be runout of the arbor or simply crud or a burr between the blade and arbor collar.

Did the 55 produce clean cuts when mounted in the CMS?  If I understand you correctly, that was the 55's first job.  If the saw marks were happening there, it's acted this way since you got it.

I'm betting on a less-than-perfect arbor.  Have Festool service check it.

Ned

 

[AMC]

That's right, the TS55 started off mounted in the CMS, and it left saw marks when used that way, too. I thought it was a poor fitting in the CMS, but no ...

Matt

 

[Warrior]

Matt,
I think it must be the blad skew. have you tried to adust that? I have a ts75 and I changed the skew ( adjusted the back of the blade a little closer than the factory setting) It was cutting fine but the gap at the back between the mounting plate and the base of the saw was a lot bigger than the front gap. So I closed it in a little and I started to get those marks in the cut that you describe.
Try and adjust the skew at the back of the saw away from the cut a little and try it.
My .02

Eiji

 

[oilburnerfixer]

I know I'm late, but this problem really does exist on the TS55. I bought one, with the fine blade, and it showed marks. I thought it was the blade, as a laminate blade appeared to be ok. This was both in, and out of, a CMS. I went to Festool at Bury and spent about two hours there. They couldn't sort it, so they swapped the saw. That one seemed a bit better at the time, but get it home and the problem shows itself again. I looked at the toe in, but since I can't find my feeler gauges, I'll have to wait until next week and buy some.

This problem exists with two new saws running four different, new blades, so it's NOT a wear problem.

Can anyone tell me a reliable way to set the toe in and what it should be? I think I know, but since I haven't sorted it yet I must be wrong somewhere (come to that, so must Festool).

The saw has got loads of good points, but this saw tooth mark business is irritating. So far it doesn't live up to the hype.

 

[Amateur]

I finally got around to setting up my TS55EQ, and the saw blade was not square, the 45 degree setting was not 45 and the blade skew was tight to the rear of the blade. I followed the manual and all is well now. Check your blade settings, I bet the blade skew is askew.

 

[oilburnerfixer]

I can't find anything in the manual about blade skew setting. Which page is it on?

 

[Dan Clark]

Check the bottom of page 12 in this manual:http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/docs/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf

Regards,

Dan.

 

[oilburnerfixer]

Wow, thanks!!! I've been searching through the 14 language, 73 page European USELESS manual. (Festool EU  take note).

 

[ROb McGilp]

Hi AMC,

I have a TS75 which also cuts like a hot knife through butter and have been thinking about this TS55 blade cut artefact. I wonder if the extra weight of the TS75, particularly right over the cut has anything to do with this. Certainly the type of timber being cut will.
I also find that if, for some reason, the TS75 and its umbilical cords (power and vacuum) become snagged, I can end up with cut marks as well. Resawing the face without any readjustment of the rail or saw usually totally eradicate this problem. Perhaps a slower more consistent cut while resting a hand on the blade housing may help.

Regards,

Rob

 

[AMC]

Have had a long hiatus from woodwork for various reasons, but am about to get into it again. On the TS75 vs TS55: the TS75 cuts beautifully under my standard use, the TS55 doesn't. I'll have a look at what I'm doing, but I hope cut quality isn't dependent on hand position. Thanks for the tip, though - I'll investigate that angle.

Matt