Entry way cabinets

[Chris Hughes]

Keeping with my "no nails or screws" policy*, I built these two matching cabinets for my customer to help keep the entry hall organized.  

I used the usual Festool arsenal on this gig, ts75 for breaking down a sheet, mft to cross cut, of1010 to cut cut the radius and line bore, ro150 for bulk sanding sheet goods, domino to joint horizontal to vertical elements, and the ets125 for final sanding.

The materials used are 3/4" mdo plywood caucus, 4/4 hard maple faceframe, rail, stile, and 1/2" mdf for the inset panels.  I used tinted conversion varnish for the final finish.

* I stapled the 1/4" back on because I haven't figured out how to domino it on efficiently, yet.

 

[tiralie]

Keeping with my "no nails or screws" policy*, I built these two matching cabinets for my customer to help keep the entry hall organized.  

Looking good Chris, nice design.
But why (seriously?) no nails or screws policy.
Tim

 

[Wonderwino]

Nice design & execution, Chris!  It looks like thy can catch all the crap that usually gets strung out on chairs & tables - coats, hats, mail, books & etc.

 

[Chris Hughes]

The no nail policy stems from two realities.  First, there was only one member that I could join a door conceal a pocket screw and I'm not a fan of through nailing a finished side panel.  Second, I own a domino so it is very easy to place tenons where I need them.  PLUS I have to justify the expense to my wife.

 

[greymann]

Chris,

If you really, really want to eliminate all nails and staples, just take the back up to 1/2 or even 3/4. 

Just sayin'.

Dick

 

[Chris Hughes]

Yeah, that's my next move.  This unit was a little difficult because I used two thicknesses for the back.  I needed a 3/4" piece for the hooks to mount and didn't want to do the whole back in that thickness.  I have baskets that were a design limitation and the cabinet is shallow to avoid a corner.  I do like integrated backs that we find in a lot of euro-style boxes.

 

[lawhoo]

To avoid fasteners in the back, you could also use dados, rather than rabbets, and just let it float.

 

[Wonderwino]

To avoid fasteners in the back, you could also use dados, rather than rabbets, and just let it float.

Like we did in cabinet class.  but then you'll need an MFK700 to rout the dados.  [scared]  [big grin]  [big grin]  [big grin]

 

[Jonhilgen]

To avoid fasteners in the back, you could also use dados, rather than rabbets, and just let it float.

Like we did in cabinet class.  but then you'll need an MFK700 to rout the dados.   [scared]  [big grin]  [big grin]  [big grin]

I use my of2000 to route 1/4 dadoes.  A bit of overkill, but it's the only festool router I have.  But a dadoe'd back would be the way to go if you really want to avoid any and all metal in your cabinets.

Jon

 

[erock]

Okay, I'm going to ask this question, because I don't know the answer.

But wouldn't you want to at lease screw or nail the back of a upper cabinet for strength? 

I understand not screwing the backs on something small.  But for a upper cabinet that might see some weight.  I know a dado is a strong joint.

And maybe it's just me and my fear of a cabinet falling.  Please keep in mind, that I also have no faith in just gluing a joint.

And by using the Domino, I have been trying to just relying on using a domino joint with glue on some projects.  But, I just can't get over

reinforcing the joint with a brad nail or something. 

I guess it comes from the way I learned the old method of glue and screw.

I would love to build something using only glue and the domino, but I can't get over my fears!!

Eric

 

[Chris Hughes]

I like the floating back technique.  I have installed lots of euro boxes with a trapped 15mm back.  It pretty sturdy a door gives me infinite options for fastening to the wall.

All of the fixed shelves are dadoed and have two dominoes.  The dado adds a little strength and fixes the horizontal to vertical joint.  The dominoes add more strength and with glue to the dado and domino "ain't nothing coming apart".