Entryway bench

Thanks guys. It was some tricky figuring out for sure. I paid the stupidity tax and bought another pre surfaced board from Woodcraft last night after work. Crazy expensive compared to what I get the stuff for from my distributor but when you only need a little bit and don't want to deal with milling it made the most sense to me.

I'm hoping to have a system down for milling lumber next time I tackle a project like this. I have the planer setup awaiting a helical upgrade. I have a Veritas LAJ plane on order to aid in knocking down high spots. And to get ahead of the hand tool purists saying there's better planes for the task: I did my homework here and settled on the LAJ plane as it will let me do lots of other things with the different blades available. I'll explore dedicated smooth/coarse/jointer planes as my needs/wants evolve.

I'll build myself a face jointing sled for the planer. I can edge joint with the track saw. Not the best or ideal setup but for my needs, will make do. Certainly better than what I've been doing which is buying the stock at 3/4 S4S and working around twists and warps. The worst thing was having to face glue the 3/4 boards to get 1.5" thick. I hated doing that.

Matt
 
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Very nice recovery Matt and that bench looks terrific.  [thumbs up]  [thumbs up]

It was your post on April 12th that I was going to suggest that you just persevere and take really small cuts at a time and just sneak up to the fit that you needed. But then I thought "That's easy for you to say Cheese when you're not doing any of the work.", so I passed.  [big grin]

That's the method I used to install new maple treads & risers, whisper thin saw cuts and angle adjustments in the 1/4º range. A very slow & tedious process but it does work.
 
I really like the Track tubes, and the worktops.. Having the same saw horses, but with std. 2x3” construction lumber and construction grade plain plywood top - The set up you have would be really nice and flexible. Wish someone would bring them over in bulk!
 
[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member]

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/
 
DynaGlide said:
[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member]

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/
Click to expand...

Matt - glad you decided to include the "X" in the ends. Nice looking project. I'm thinking of making one.

Also, on our TrackTube benches. I posted incorporating my previous Eurekazone Bridge using the same bench dog principle. I like the one side hinge design better (I think) because it only needs attachment at one end.

For reference here was my post:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...es/ez-bridge-on-mft-slab/msg626385/#msg626385
 
I think this wins for weirdest thing I've had to figure out how to glue up:

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I was careful to not use too much glue as I don't want to deal with trying to remove squeeze out. I cut wedge blocks out of complementary angles and nubbed them off. The X on this end of the table was a little looser necessitating clamping pressure to get it to close the gaps.
 
DynaGlide said:
[member=71478]FestitaMakool[/member]

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/
Click to expand...

Thanks, I noticed Peter posted a video - haven’t yet had the time to see it.
Again, the system seems to be a great addition to a Festool MFT/3 - my table “lives” outside so the plywood is never flat, but for general work when assembling, using a jigsaw, router, coffe table, painting table and so forth.. with its 240cm length I use it for anything often with room to spare. Adding track tubes and split MFT tops would be splendid during summer (and dry weather..) I do all I can outside when the temperature and weather is nice - leaving smaller work to the MFT/3 inside.

If BenchDogs UK would make similar…  [wink]
I’ve been busy making my “tool holders” smarter, easing moving and storing tools lately, I’d be glad to buy some tooling - so I have more time making things I need instead of making tool tables and such.
 
It's almost finishing time. I tried doing some dewaxed shellac, with different stains on top, then GF High Performance on some scrap and I don't think I'm going to continue with the staining step.

I like the idea of natural cherry with it aging over time. I've read enough peoples experiences saying to washcoat first with cherry. Would I be fine to do that, then 3 coats of GF High Performance and call it a day? Sanding in between as required.
 
I know finishing is about tradition and personal taste.
I cannot say how cherry naturally age, but I guess local climate and sun exposure will count in.

To my eyes, it looks really good as is! [smile]
We do more often finish with white wash oil finishes, to stay ahead of darkening.. Ash, pine, oak.
 
I would go Tung Oil for this for natural color.

It yellows a lot less to Linseed oil and handles light better too.
 
DynaGlide said:
I like the idea of natural cherry with it aging over time. I've read enough peoples experiences saying to washcoat first with cherry. Would I be fine to do that, then 3 coats of GF High Performance and call it a day? Sanding in between as required.
Click to expand...

....or Osmo Poly x or GF Arm R seal. Easy Peasy.
Tim
 
DynaGlide said:
I think this wins for weirdest thing I've had to figure out how to glue up:

i-mTr3VXw-L.jpg


i-Dz3kv3z-L.jpg


I was careful to not use too much glue as I don't want to deal with trying to remove squeeze out. I cut wedge blocks out of complementary angles and nubbed them off. The X on this end of the table was a little looser necessitating clamping pressure to get it to close the gaps.
Click to expand...

I have dozens of clamping blocks, wedges, fixtures spread all over. Some are right under the main bench, but others are in the miter saw station or on the shelves behind my back wall. Once in a while, I do throw some away because they were so specialized that they only ever work with that one job they were made for.
The bench project looks great. Can't wait to see some finish on it.
 
After talking with an instagram friend of mine who builds furniture professionally and mostly works with Cherry, I went ahead with my plan. The pieces all received a washcoat of 50/50 SealCoat Dewaxed shellac/Denatured alcohol mix followed by a full strength 2lb cut coat. Lightly sanded with 320, vacuumed, wiped, and tack clothed and onto General Finishes High Performance Satin. First coat went on light and turned out great. Second coat I was able to get it on thicker with great weather, overcast and slight breeze. Having never used either shellac or GF High Performance I wasn't sure what was going to happen but man am I really pleased with the GF High Performance. It works right out of the can, levels out nicely, dries fast, and is just a real pleasure to work with.

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I've only worked with paints and Kem Aqua + up until now. After this experience I want to do more wood projects in the future. Spraying makes everything turn out so, so much nicer. I'll give the 2nd coat time to cure and decide if I want to do a third on the top and shoe rack shelves. GF claims additional coats don't do anything for the durability.

Matt
 
Looks great! I agree.  Spraying is the way to go.  Where did you get the stands you're using for finishing/drying racks?
 
sawdustinmyshoes said:
[Thank you! They can be purchased here direct or I think Rockler carries them: https://thepaintline.com/
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Thank you!
[/quote]

FYI - When I had a big job with our kitchen remodel I made a rack with PVC pipe that can be broken down easily. Was dirt cheap to build years ago but last time I checked PVC piping has gone up in price between 5 to 10 times what it was before COVID. (you can probably Google it and find some ideas)
 
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