ETS EC 125 pad change...

[Lou in DE]

I am trying to change pads (to a hard pad) but can't seem to unscrew the original pad. I have seen some videos so I'm pretty sure that I am turning the correct direction to loosen (counterclockwise) but it is not coming loose which is made more difficult because you can't lock the pad so I assume you must try to hold the pad with one hand and turn (or try to) the hex wrench with the other.

Does anyone have a suggestion, technique or trick that I might try?

Lou

 

[RKA]

In general I'll usually try a 12v impact driver in situations like this.  The fact that the pad rotates doesn't really matter with this technique and the beating action is usually more effective at breaking the tension, oddly, less likely to strip out the head of the bolt.  But don't go crazy, just a couple quick trigger pulls.  That screw isn't designed to take a beating with an impact driver.  When you get it out, if there is any deformation inside that bolt, replace it. 

Note:  I'm giving you general advice on how I deal with stuck hex bolts.  I've never had to resort to this with my sanders (yet).  Usually I'm dealing with them on cars where they are siezed in place. 

 

[bobfog]

My ETS EC 125 was exactly the same and so was another one in a store when I was having a play around. They are done up hellishly tight at the factory and it took every ounce of my strength to undo it. But once undone I've never had the same problem.

 

[Cheese]

I give the hex key handle 1 sharp wrap with a rubber mallet. Works just like an impact wrench instead it's only 1 impact rather than many.

 

[Yeon]

I also had the same issue the first time I changed the pad. I felt like I was going to break part of the machine.

I finally was able to do it by placing it face down (as if I was sanding a surface) with the middle overhanging the edge. I put a ton of pressure down on it to prevent the pad from moving and after a few tries the bolt finally came loose. Never had that issue again so I assume it's just the factory going crazy tightening it down.

As a note I placed a none-slip mat (such as this rubber mat) so that the sander pad wasn't being pressed down directly onto a flat surface with a ton of force. Best of luck.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Put a medium or coarse grit on the pad and place the sander over a hole in a piece of ply.

Abrasive on the pad and full contact requires less downward pressure on the sander.

Impact driver is still the best tool to break the screw loose.

 

[Lou in DE]

Just an update - still trying to get the bolt out - tried most of the methods mentioned here plus a few ideas of my own (like a piece of conduit over the hex wrench to increase leverage) - still no luck. I'm going to try the impact driver method but need to pick up some impact hex drivers. So far I have about 2 hours over several days into this  [mad]

Thanks for the ideas (any others?)

Lou

 

[bkharman]

Just an update - still trying to get the bolt out - tried most of the methods mentioned here plus a few ideas of my own (like a piece of conduit over the hex wrench to increase leverage) - still no luck. I'm going to try the impact driver method but need to pick up some impact hex drivers. So far I have about 2 hours over several days into this  [mad]

Thanks for the ideas (any others?)

Lou

Do you have a MFT table Lou?  If so, put the sander on top of it with the hole dead center.  Use a wrench underneath and tap with a hammer to loosen it up.  My ETS EC 125 had the same issue.  The Hulk put the bolts in for festool evidentially.

Cheers.  Bryan.

 

[Lou in DE]

Latest update - my hex driver set arrived yesterday. This morning I used the 5mm in my Bosch impact driver in short bursts as suggested above (thanks RKA!) - after maybe 30 seconds of short bursts, it broke loose  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin].

To be honest I was afraid that I would round out the bolt, but it was fine - good quality bolt for sure because I had already put it through some torque. I would suggest Festool allow the end user to install the original pad especially since it seems that many people have the same problem. It's a good thing a new bolt came with the hard pad - it might come in handy in the future.

Thanks again for all the help.

Lou

Here's a pic of the result (note the 150/3 marking inside left of the sander - curious):