Euro Cabinets 101-2 A Beginner's Guide

[Overtime]

OK. Lets get right into it and make some 32 mm Frameless Cabinets with some Festools.

But, first some Primers and other valuable resources on the subject. First up is Mirko's thread LR 32-SYS Secrets explained.http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=452.0

  -a must read, as the very "DNA" of the subject is in his opening post. Also http://32mm.dalrun.com/ is another very good read. Danny Proulux's book, Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets, is yet another great "Fast track" to an end product.

After you complete those go tohttp://www.blum.com/us/en/01/30/index.php and read up on concealed hinges with a focus on Clip top and Clip Hinges, and Mounting plates. Download the Concealed Hinge Brochure- 11mb - 90 pages of hinge hardware. Or just go with Clip downloads to keep it simple. Look at the charts carefully as they will instruct as to proper hinge selection. It's easier than learning Sketch UP.  We will need to know what hardware we will be using and how to select it.

   Doesn't matter if you use Blum or not, the hinge brochure is a wealth of knowledge for those of us new to this hardware and its applications. OK wrap your mind around all that Concealed Hinge stuff. To lighten the load, forget about all the angle and specialty hinges for now, don't want to blow a fuse. For this application I will be using Full Overlay hinges for 3/4" stock- this makes the hinge selection more narrow and manageable. All we need to decide on now is the swing angle (how far will the door swing open ?) 107 110 120 170 deg and so on. We will use 120 deg Self Close (because we will be using "soft close pistons." More on that later) fully adjustable hinges. And now we need a mounting plate, Oh no another 1000 choices ! But we know we are going to have full overlay doors so you already know we need 0mm mounting plates. And yes we want cam adjustability. Why, because we may need to tweak things a bit, and having the built in availability to do that is a good thing. Yes it will add a few cents to the hardware expense. OK that was easy. 

Here we go: wait we forgot to decide how we want to mount them... with screws, what screws? dowels?
Oh no, more choices ! Yes more. So we finally settled on some hinges and we have two here, the one on the left is a 120 deg full overlay - Blum #71T5590 Self Close Inserta and a 170 deg (high $ because of the full swing open) #71T6540 Self close Inserta. No screws needed for these as the cup expands and locks into place when you press the flap down. These hinges have full toe in toe out and camber adjustmets (not your grandpa's hinges here.) Yes, they will hold tight. And we have a cam adjustable mounting plate #173H710 that comes with the 5mm dowels with screws in place ready to go as shown. We will need 2 hinges and 2 mounting plates per door. And since we will not be buying them by the gross, case, pallet, Lb or Truck Load we can expect to pay about $2.10 ea for the 120 deg hinge and $0.49cents ea for the mounting plates. The 170 deg hinges jump to the $5.00 ea range.

More to come... Wow we haven't even plugged in a tool yet !

 

[Overtime]

We'll jump ahead just to get a look at how and where the hardware is used. Here we can see how the hinge hardware will come into play. The white panel is a side to an upper box  - it is 12" deep X 800mm tall. This has "system holes" that are 5mm. They were drilled using the LR 32 SYS. And are spaced 32 mm from CL to CL. This panel will utilize the mounting plates that fit in the 5mm holes. The door back is one of a pair that will go to this box. The door will hold the hinge cup assembly. The hole pattern is not the same as the line bored system holes but one of the critical relations is that the "center line" of the hinge cup 3 hole pattern falls in line with the "center line" of the 32mm spacing of the 5mm system holes on the side panel. The door hinge boring consists of 2 8mm holes and a 35mm cup hole. Spacing and locations are dictated by hinge type,stock thickness and overlay options. Many types of drilling templates are available at a wide range of price points. Setting up your own drilling jigs on a drill press with stops is another option that will result in the same accuracy.

  Note that the door height is exactly the same height at 800mm. When cabinet sides and doors are the same height using multiples of 32mm then door hinge drilling locations become uncomplicated. Then we can take advantage of the system holes and the door cup holes as they will always line up precisely. The parts can be pre cut and drilled but not assembled as these are here, and the door hardware will mate with the case side dead on every time. Only an operator error could foul this up  :'(  as the numbers are a given. These system hole spacing and locations are a standard and when using the LR 32 SYS or any line boring machine or method to complete this process on the cabinet side panels so long as the basics are uniform the results will be the same. We will go over this in more detail later.   

 

[Eli]

Love it, fantastic, keep going! These are the same I put in my last house. The only thing I DIDN'T like about them was they gather dust on top of the lower door rail, hard to clean. The next kitchen I do for us will be likely be flush panels with a shadow line. Love it. Fantastic job.

 

[Dave Rudy]

OT,

Can't say enough good things about what you're doing here.  Keep on going, waiting the next posts eagerly.

BTW, what is "CL to CL"?

This thread is just one example of what makes this forum truly outstanding!!!

Dave

 

[Bob Childress]

Center Line to Center Line.

Great thread!!

 

[Dan Clark]

OT,

Excellent work!!!   Keep it coming!   And the Picture Cop (aka "me"), gives you two thumbs-up and a gold star for the pics!   ;D

Mirko's great LR32 tutorial and Brice Burrell's animated drawings (http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage13.html) and LR32 pdf (http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/LR32_tutorial.pdf) provide wealth of detailed information about how to use the LR32 for cabinet making.   Your work completes the picture!!!  

When I first started buying Festool, I looked at the LR32 and thought, "what's that thing used for?"   Now it's on my to-buy list.

Many thanks,

Dan.

 

[Overtime]

Thanks Eli, and it just so happins that now is a perfect time to decide on what type of sheet goods we will use for our project.

But before we go there let me add this link for those that have or plan to use the LR 32.http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=514.0
Brice will get us set up and running with this tool quickly. For those that just can't get enough information, one more resource to mention is a book called True 32 Flow Manufacturing by Bob Buckley. This book is geared towards the commercial cabinet shop but contains some useful info.

OK back to case material selection. Lets split them in two for now and deal with #1 the cabinet box and or case, carcass etc. and #2 the doors. Many factors to deal with here. Personal choice, cost, availability, style and on and on. We could chose any thing from a high end architectural grade veneered panel to a melamine covered particle board. So lets narrow the field. We're going to use 3/4" or 23/32 sheet goods for this project. These upper cabinets will be located in a shop, garage or basement. So looks are low on priority. But strength and durability is high on our list.

Things to consider at this junction. No matter what we select for the case material the overall time of the labor and joinery methods to construct the box will be generally the same. Paint grade or stain grade these are also factors to consider. They add time to any project. While melamine is a time saver when it comes to finishing and cost is low I will put this at the bottom of my list for this project and rule it out completely. Don't want to invest the time and hardware $ for a material that might sag or have blown-out hardware issues down the line.
  The items we will be placing in these cabinets will be heavy and that along with extreme humidity swings makes particle board products last on my list. That brings us to plywood and MDF. MDF is now available in lighter weights and also in a somewhat exterior grade to combat moisture issues. I hate MDF but it still is a good option here.

Look around your shop and garage, are there any useful cut-offs of sheet goods that you are constanly moving out of your way but saving for that certain project that will eventually pop up ? Now is the time for those if they will work.

But I'm going with Plywood and will be using Baltic Birch. It is a very stable, flat multi-ply sheet good true to size. At just about twice the cost of shop grade ply this product should last a lifetime.  The cost might be "over the top" for many of us and availability may also be an issue but the level of quality is superior.    Shop grade plywood would also be a great choice if I was confident that it would not warp 20 minutes after I rip it. But it is and remains a great option for our application.

No matter what we use we will need to address the sheet good's exposed edging. Or we don't need to do a thing and leave them be as they are. The clean cut of multi-ply edge is just fine for a utility grade cabinet. But lets plan to cover them up in a proper mannor. This will give us a stepping stone to future projects that will be at a higher level of quality and finish.

Our goal here will be to get a nice finished edge on all of the exposed edges of the plywood including shelves and door slabs. We will use a fast and easy method to accomplish this task. No special tooling such as hot melt edge taping equipment and the like is needed.  And no we don't even need an iron. The results will be very good.
 
We will use a product from Fastcap called Fastedge.   
 
 

 This product is available in many wood choices both finished or unfinished along with melamine choices.
I will be using "unfinished natural" birch here, It would probably be considered a paint grade edging, as they have "white birch" also at a higher cost. For us this product will be fine. It's the ease of application that is of importance here.

The process is a simple peel and stick method. The tenacity or stickiness of this product is similar to mating two pieces of material with contact cement.   

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Overtime,
Man this is good stuff!
Excellent work, and thanks for the time and effort putting this tutorial together!
Keep it going, and tell us everything!
Matthew

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Overtime,

Thanks for this tutorial.  It is exactly what I have been looking for...for shop cabinets and for an entertainment center I am designing.  Another thing I realized last night is that TV compartment door products listed in Rockler's catalogues haven't caught up with the fact that LCD and plasma TVs don't require cabinets nearly as deep as for old CRT TV's, and don't address how to make and attach doors that can be slid back into the sides of the cabinet when in use.  A pair of bi-fold doors doesn't seem compatible with the various Euro hardware and rack and pinion or other slide mechanisms, unless your willing to make the panels of pair forming a bifold of different sizes or make the width of the cabinet much greater to compensate for the fact that the folded door panel is going to interfere with the Euro hinge arm extending from the cup in the door panel to the inside of the side of the cabinet.

Others apparently are able to see pics that you have posted.  Usually I have no problem seeing photos and videos posted at FOG, but for some reason none of yours are coming through today.  I checked other FOG posts with photos and confirmed they are coming through, e.g. John Lucas recent post about an MFT router table with a photo of Elena.

Dan or Matthew,

Any thoughts on why no pics on my PC?

Dave R.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

A pair of bi-fold doors doesn't seem compatible with the various Euro hardware and rack and pinion or other slide mechanisms, unless your willing to make the panels of pair forming a bifold of different sizes or make the width of the cabinet much greater to compensate for the fact that the folded door panel is going to interfere with the Euro hinge arm extending from the cup in the door panel to the inside of the side of the cabinet.

Wow, Dave, that's some detail-packed sentence!

Others apparently are able to see pics that you have posted.  Usually I have no problem seeing photos and videos posted at FOG, but for some reason none of yours are coming through today.  I checked other FOG posts with photos and confirmed they are coming through, e.g. John Lucas recent post about an MFT router table with a photo of Elena.

Dan or Matthew,

Any thoughts on why no pics on my PC?

Dave R.

I don't know why the pics wouldn't show up for you.  They are referencing the gallery, so as long as you are signed into the forum they should appear.

I'll check on the settings...

Matthew

 

[bruegf]

Dave,

Make sure you are logged in.  Pics don't appear when you're not logged in.

Fred

 

[Overtime]

OK- thanks all for your compliments

Now let's cut up a $64.00 sheet of 3/4" 4'X8' Baltic Birch  ;D

Our cabinet has dimensions and we will prepare to cut out the parts. Oh right , we will construct a double door upper cabinet here.
Earlier I downsized a full sheet of  ply using a Festool guide rail 3000/2 and a TS 55 EQ
I marked off, and set the rail smack on the line to yield or net a 12" wide x 8' long piece. Did that again and got another 12" plank. And as usual the cuts are super nice. We won't be needing "cutlist" or any program here, just a sharp pencil and some paper. We now have two planks of ply that will give us two sides, a top & bottom and two shelves. We still need to find and cut a back and deal with the doors. But we'll stay focused on the box for now.

Low tech boom arm - two sections of hardware store bungie by the foot, suspended from eye hooks and tied to hose for "quick release" ;D

Now we can get things going at the MFT. At this point I will start downsizing again. To insure we get square cuts check your setup. And as you proceed remember not to slam that heavy plywood into the fence and send it out of whack.
  Our parts will be 2 at 30" long (top & bottom) and two at 800mm long (right and left sides) and two at 29 and13/16ths these will be for the shelves. This will allow for room for the shelf to drop onto the shelf pins. We will also need to trim them down from 12" to 11 1/4" This is because of the back. Our box will be 800mm tall x 31 1/2" wide ( outside dimension) x 12" deep this does not include the doors. We will have a 1/4" back let into a daddo. We will be adding 1/2" x 3-4" mounting rails on the back top and bottom.

  So to insure I get nice uniform and square cuts, I will take each plank and cut them all at 32" to get a total of 6 pieces from the two planks.. As I rough cut I mark the Square cut corner to indicate it's good clean cut. Don't rely on the factory edge for a finished cut. Make all the parts to have fresh square ends.  Stop to pause and consider this, are your boards uniform at 12" ? That number is not set in stone and can be whatever you want. What matters most is that we get our top, bottom and sides all the same width.  Since our two planks were cut using the guide rail method we will want to insure they are uniform. Will you sleep better if you ran them accross the table saw to shave them all a bit just to make sure they are the same size ?, no biggie,  OK no problem because once we start cross cutting...  Next we will place the marked square end against the stop for repeat cuts. Now we measure out 800mm , mark and locate the board and set that stop so the pairs are equal length cut and repeat. Then on to the sides and shelves. Mark or label the parts as soon as they are sized and keep them in pairs.
 

Here we have our parts, top, bottom and sides, and shelves all nice and square with clean crisp edges. Note that along with some dust,  those small pieces on the right is our waste cut offs. 98% or so yield- not bad.   

 

[Overtime]

Next we'll machine the parts

First we want to look over our panels and pick an inside / outside because from now on it matters. So mark them. And keep them in pairs. Also we have an air line with a nozzle to blow dust and chips off our table and parts because from now on we want to treat them as if they were a "stain grade" product" and minimise damage to the boards. Chips on the work surface and between the boards will cause scratch and dent's  and that adds time to the finishing dept.
 
I'll start with the Domino. Starting with a side panel, I'll place a couple of mortises on each end. Using the pins for placement and spacing. I have the width set at the middle wide setting. We will use 5mm.

To clamp them for this process I found that the side panels will rest nicely on the MFT's bottom leg support rail while quick clamping them to the MFT frame rail section. It gives a good stable work position.

And a couple of notes on the Domino: make sure your settings and fence position are correct and locked in place before you begin. If the Domino handles as if your were holding a live trout by the tail, your work piece is not stable or clamped correctly.

   

We'll flip this around and Domino the other end. Then we will repeat this on the other side panel.

Next we'll work on the top and bottom sections by placing mating mortices in the same pattern using the pins for spacing. Not even a mark needed !  8)

Here we are using the Jorgensen ( thanks to bill-e for his post on them ) hold down clamps to work the ends of the top and bottom panels. Be sure and mark them in some manner. I mark this as "outside or out" for the Domino allignment to the sides. Here we just left the tape on to indicate "out" or up. We will complete the other end of this board by keeping the outer side up as we turn it and reclamp.
  Then we'll do the other Top/Bottom board ends. That completes the Domino process.

But before we put it away, just a quick check and a dry fit. OK, looking good so far. 

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Overtime,
I'm following the whole thing, man!  Keep it going.
By the way, your shop is too clean!!!  And I like your boom-arm set up.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Matthew

 

[Overtime]

Next up: Pocket holes. I'm going to place a couple of them( 3 on each end) on the (outside side) of the outer ends of my top and bottom boards. They will act as clamps when we assemble the box. (but we will be using clamps also) Your choice, use them or don't. Use more dominos or don't. Plenty of options here.

Note the hose adaptor -  part # DT
The locations were marked and drilled. I placed three at each end. One in the center and one between each of the two outer mortises. Keep them away from the outer edge of the boards. No mechanical fasteners within 2 and 1/8th inches from the outer edges of these as we will be installing a Blum Soft Close device.

This is a Blumotion 970A1002 Soft Close Plunger. About $2.60 ea. More on that later.

Lets move over to the table saw to machine a 1/4" daddo in to the inside back of each board so we need to look them over now and pick our best edges and mark them front or back. We want our best reserved for the wood edge tape that we will be using later.

Here is our spacing or set back of the daddo. I will be attaching two 1/2" x 3"  nailing rails on the back. One up top and one at the bottom.
The pic shows the 1/2" scrap piece and a 1/4" piece in the daddo to finish out flush with the back. This will make our inside box depth 11 1/4".  Many options here as well. I will be attaching a 3/4" plywood french cleat also. Lots to think about here. How will "you" mount them and so on. My cabinet will hang on the wall from the cleat. We'll cross that bridge when we get there.

  And here we have the two sides and top and bottom. The next process will be the "system holes" on the sides using the LR 32-SYS  and OF 1010 EQ router.

 

[Overtime]

Before we get to the LR 32 SYS work. Here's some prep work on our doors and a little more on the hinge hardware and tooling.

Here is a table full of goodies. We have a bunch of Blum 120 deg Inserta hinges and mounting plates. Also a few Blumotion Soft Close plungers.  4 completed but unfinished doors. They were made from clear pine with a 1/4" knotty pine veneered panel. Festool # 491129 Stile bit and # 491130 Rail bit were used to create the profile on the 2 1'4" pine stock.

And we have a pre cut pile of 2 1/4" pine stock, face and edge sanded and ready to be machined with the same Stile and Rail set. The boards are shrink wrapped to help keep them stable. This help combat warpage due to humidity while they await machining.

 

Here we have two of Blum's tools. The large one is Blum's Ecodrill # M31.000 used to drill the 3 hole hinge cup pattern on the doors.And the other is the Template drilling guide bushing # 65.5010 used to locate and drill for the Blumotion Soft Close plunger #970A1002

Here is a closer look at the Ecodrill

This is a pricey little setup at about $260.00  For the small shop and sometime cabinet maker this tool is just incredible. There are much less costly jigs and methods available. For me this is like the domino is to the mortise and tennon process. A giant leap in accuracy on demand, time saving and ease of use. Just strike a line , clamp and go. You can bring the tool to the work piece any where any time.

More to come

 

[DaveM]

OT,

Awesome thread!

Thanks very much for providing this tutorial, I'm learning a lot, looking forward to more!

DaveM

 

[Overtime]

Now lets move on to the final machining process of our parts. We have only the case sides to work on. So it's time for the LR 32 SYS and a router. By now most of us have had plenty of time to absorb all of the info on the set up and use of this equipment. And even those that have it on their wish list know how to use it by now.
  But lets burn some bandwidth with a flurry of pics.

 

Here we have our LR 32 guide rail and a straight edge board marked with the blue tape. This is the "Mirko" inspired jig. On my version I have drilled two holes on each end and use  some screws to hold it firmly into place. Also to to remove the rail from the end boards and then put it back together if need be and have it dead on accurate without the need to readjust.
   The straight edge board is set along the MFT's fence and is clamped to the MFT rails at the ends. Then the jig assembly is butted up to the board and also clamped. Now we're set to go.

I'm showing here how I have set the jig so as to have the center of the "system holes" land at 37mm from the finished edge of the side panel. Since I will be adding the wood edge tape (a small sample showing here only to illustrate that my "finished edge" is not on the board yet.) So my set up takes this into account. I'll remove the wood tape sample.

Again, we want the row of system hole centers to land at 37mm from the finished edge of the board to the center of the holes.

A close look, we are setting the adjustable bar pin stops and here we have depressed the router bit (router is off and we're just plunging for marking) to give a mark so we can measure and adjust from. We'll move the router down the line and make a couple of depression marks to insure we are going to have our row of holes parallel to the edge of the board. This process is used when setting up with out the Mirko jig, which makes this a moot point.

Here are two tools that have become invaluable in the aid of measuring and understanding the metric system. The tape measure is Fastcap's PMS - (Pad Metric Standard) and they have two more metric tapes also. The "Metric - Standard" tape will have you using and understanding the mm system in no time.
  Also shown is a digital caliper with Metric, Inches, fractions, and Decimals. 

Now we have a side panel set in place for drilling the 5mm holes onto the front edge of the panel, I marked the "top" of the panel (but if your board length is a multiple of 32mm and and your end stops are set to have a first hole CL land at 16mm from the end of the panel) then top and bottom won't matter. It's reversable.  When you learn to trust your Festools and their results the panel can be left or right and all will line up. For now when we flip the board we'll place the "top" against the end stop and secure. Using Festool Clamping Elements # 488030 without the undermount knobs.
   Also you can see 3 faint pencil lines the first is to indicate that the first hole location will be at 16 mm from the edge of the board ( we will not drill this it is only to show correct set up for our application. The next two lines are at 80mm and 112mm and these are our starting points. They are marked by colors (a Mirko system) No need to measure and mark, the jig will do all that. But just a few seconds of pre planning will give you a nice hole pattern. Those two will be for our hinge mounting plates, and we want them at the bottom also, So locate the two holes that are 80 and 112mm from the bottom of the board and without moving or changing a thing mark and or drill those two positions. We're working on the front edge of a side panel and only the front edge needs the mounting plate holes. Then we'll skip a few, say 4-5 hole  positions from both the top and bottom mounting plate holes and drill every thing in between. Those will be for the shelf pins. And as Mirko points out no need to go drilling willy nilly all over the place. Because I don't think you will be placing a shelf 4'' from the bottom or top of the cabinet and we won't be needing mounting plates in the back of the box either
  This process is so easy and fast that it is hard not to just drill the entire hole line, hence the color codes.

  OK now reposition the board to drill the Back row of holes. We only need holes in this application for shelf placement so we will make them in line with the shelf holes that were drilled on the front edge. We're going to keep our 37mm set back the same for this but we could easily change it if need be for example - if our "back" of box was set up in a way that would necessitate the row of holes to be located inward a bit. Then we could do something like in the next pic.

   

Here we show a spacer block that we can place at both ends of our jig set up to increase our (standard 37 mm setting for the front edge) to any distance we might need. The 37mm is a constant but there are applications when it is changed. Door hinge and drawer slide hardware utilise this "system hole pattern" 37mm from the edge with 32mm CL to CL and 5mm holes.
  With this project we are using the simplest form of the system.

And just think not long ago I thought all those silly little holes were just for shelf adjustment !

 

[Overtime]

  Some recap and thoughts on what we've done up till now. 

We cut a sheet of ply and netted our 6 parts including the two shelves. If we wanted Two cabinet sets from the sheet we would have ripped another 12" x 8' plank and got all 8 box parts- tops bottoms and sides and then be left with a less than 12" ( due to loss from saw kerf cuts) piece for shelves. Since the shelves will be at or near 11 1/4" we would be just fine with enough stock for the shelves also.

Thus far this could easily have been an all Festool project as the daddo could have been accomplished with a OF 1400 or 1010 using a guide rail. Soon when we or "I" get used to the idea that a TS 55 EQ and a rail can give you a finished cut, eliminating the double handling of the parts. Trust your festools, they won't let you down.

  Why am I using all this high $ hardware ? Since most of this "concealed hinge" stuff is new to me, I wanted flexability in the adjustment area. And I sure got it! We have a total of 6 axis adjustment points per door ! Thats enough to make a square door fit an octagon shaped box. We can fine tune the fit and operation of our doors easily with a screwdriver. Until we or "I" get familiar with this process this hardware gives me a sense confidence should my measurements be off a tad bit  ect.

Box size standards. Hmmm, well I know there are some standards but I'm not a professional cabinet maker and the size of my project is based mainly on need with a little thought on aesthetics tossed in.

Why pine for stile and rails? Had a couple 1 x 6 x 8' S4S clear mostly vertical grain pine on hand. Very clean and stable, each board will yield 16 LF of 2 1/4" stock. So far... works for me.

And speaking of professional cabinet makers and those with lots of experience in this area: Please feel free to comment and make suggestions on points or areas that need to be corrected or methods and standards that you use that could be of value on this topic. While this may be my tutorial, I welcome any and all information that would help those of us in the "novice" category expand our skills.       

 

[Overtime]

Time for the edge banding. Many folks already have the equipment in some form or another and or methods of completing this task. But for those of us that do not we'll quickly go over my limited experience with the Fastcap wood tape process.
  So round up all your parts. Find the shelves, hope you didn't loose em or cut them up for another project. : We will need some good sharp scissors to rough cut our wood tape. We'll cut them each about 1" or so longer then actual size.

First we will clean the dust off the edge by using a blast of air then wipe the edge surface with a damp rag with acetone or denatured alcohol. This will prep the surface for the sticky tape.

Peel back some of the tape cover and carefully line up before letting it make contact. I start with about 1/2" overhang at the end. I'm using 15/16" tape. So I have plenty of room to get it right.

Peel off the rest of the protective covering and continue to press it on

 
Flip the board over and trim off the excess on the ends, then trim off the excess on the long sides (where there is excess greater than about a 1/16th or so). Careful to keep the blade away from the panel by using the body of the utility knife as a guide, The blade will want to follow the grain so careful - this is not a finish cut so leave a 1/16th or so. This will make the final trimming go smoothly.

Flip it back over and roll it down tight. It's on there now ! Now to do the finish trimming.

I do not have a hand held trimmer Like Virutex or Fastcap double sided trimmer blade (yet). So I have been using a PC 310 and have found that this type of bit, slightly angled and set just so will give a nice clean cut.

This process can be somewhat tricky in that the glue line cutting has a sweet spot where the best outcome is when the blade is just so. It takes two passes usually to get a clean cut. And the bit and router base needs to be kept clean by using acetone or denatured alcohol. You will know when you have a clean cut. When it's not right you will have glue either showing or you can still feel it.

When your done with the trimmer then you can go over the edge with 180 or so grit - giving a few swipes to clean up along with downward swipes on the ends to eliminate fuzz.

This stuff takes some time to get right and it can be a little frustrating at first but after some trials you can get a nice edge.
I would like to hear from others that have used it.