Euro Cabinets 101-2 A Beginner's Guide

Hi Patrick,
  Listen, Blum sells a small orange block for test fitting the Blumotion piston in different locations.  I don't like the piston on the door hinge itself as there are too many variances to consider.  They offer the pistons in three different strengths, & the first time I purchased 1 of each to play with. 
  I also prefer to make a small block of the same material as the cabinet interior for the piston.  I bore a hole into the front edge of a bloock which can be fastened across the inside top of the cabinet.  By placing the piston 3-4" from the strike edge of the door. the piston works fantastic.  You'll want to vary that position slightly though in order to make a large door behave like a smaller door does.  Usually I use the medium piston or even just the lightest strength.  It looks better in my opinion also to not have the piston piggy back on the hinge.
  This position allows the self closing hinge to reach the strongest part of it's retraction spring position, prior to meeting the resistance of the Blumotion pistons.
  Blum also sells mounts for the pistons to allow them to apply as I've described, only they are made of plastic.  One of those plastic mounts applies with double sided tape, don't ever use that one that way though.  The tape does not hold up & your customer will be calling you often.  Just make it from wood.  The orange test positioning block in the blum catalog is great too.  That you can use with just double sided tape, in order to find just the right spot to fasten the piston.
Good luck.
P.S. I think the result of these pistons is so cool, & my customers love em.  It's ok for a kitchen door to close with a slam, but not the dining room buffet doors!
 
Overtime said:
James, where did you find the "location" info for the plunger type Blumotion?  Thanks for the help in getting it right ! I have been waiting for feedback on that detail. It's an important detail that needs to be corrected.  My location is / was not correct.  >:(

I had a minor problem, in that the 120 deg clip top hinge - when fully opened just bumps the tip of the plunger ever so slightly - (the inside edge of the door itself).  The 170 degree hinge - no problem at all.   The function and operation of both the blumotion and the doors were not affected on either hinge types. Smooth operation.

  When I made the first cabinet I set up and used a pair of 170 clip top full overlay. Using the plunger drilling guide bushing tool not knowing that there were specific "locations". I just pushed the guide up to the inside corner and drilled.  I installed the 170 hinges and presto it worked perfectly. No issues at all.  So I drilled them all at the same location. Then I used / installed the 120 clip top hinges and did not notice any thing wrong with the operation. But I finally saw the minor issue, it's too close to the hinge by about 1/8" or so.
So I changed the location on my own by 1/4" or so.

I had some idea that the location was questionable. But some how over looked the info on the plunger location for compact and clip top.
The operation of both the doors and plunger work so well that I did not consider anything other than a very minor adjustment on the location.

Just how far off are my locations ?   ??? 

Check out the top of page 75 in the Concealed Hinges catalog (my .pdf file is dated 3/23/06).  They show the optimal locations there.  They show, and I've always located, the pistons close to or at the outer edge of the door, away from the Clip Top hinges.  I don't use the Compact hinges so I've never located them in the area that you did.
 
Terp said:
Hi Patrick,
  Listen, Blum sells a small orange block for test fitting the Blumotion piston in different locations.  I don't like the piston on the door hinge itself as there are too many variances to consider.  They offer the pistons in three different strengths, & the first time I purchased 1 of each to play with. 
  I also prefer to make a small block of the same material as the cabinet interior for the piston.  I bore a hole into the front edge of a bloock which can be fastened across the inside top of the cabinet.  By placing the piston 3-4" for the hinge edge of the door. the piston works fantastic.  You'll want to vary that position slightly though in order to make a large door behave like a smaller door does.  Usually I use the medium piston or even just the lightest strength.  It looks better in my opinion also to not have the piston piggy back on the hinge.
  This position allows the self closing hinge to reach the strongest part of it's retraction spring position, prior to meeting the resistance of the Blumotion pistons.
  Blum also sells mounts for the pistons to allow them to apply as I've described, only they are made of plastic.  One of those plastic mounts applies with double sided tape, don't ever use that one that way though.  The tape does not hold up & your customer will be calling you often.  Just make it from wood.  The orange test positioning block in the blum catalog is great too.  That you can use with just double sided tape, in order to find just the right spot to fasten the piston.
Good luck.
P.S. I think the result of these pistons is so cool, & my customers love em.  It's ok for a kitchen door to close with a slam, but not the dining room buffet doors!
I've never seen the orange block or the 3 different strengths listed in the catalog.  Where did you find them?

I've used both the wood spacer blocks and the face frame adapter in cabinets using a face frame.  Both work well, although I don't really want to be spending my time finishing a block.

But for frameless cabinets, I like using the zinc die-cast adapter (#970.55E1).  Looks a lot better than the plastic.  It shares the 32mm spacing and 37mm setback the the hinges use.  If you bore hinge holes on both sides of the cabinet sides, you can install the Blumotion opposite the hinge.  In addition to making both sides identical, it would also allow you to potentially reverse the door if your customer changes their mind.
 
  You're right, the zinc is a nice choice.  Hafele has these pistons as well, although I'm not sure they are blum.  Hold on, I'll open the hafele site....... They're not Blum, they are Salice.
 
  There, I attached the PDF catalog pages from Hafele for you. 

They're not Blum, they're called "Smoves".  I prefer them because, as I said, they can be mounted any where, & used with any hinge,or....  The orange block is shown as gray on the first page, but that's it.  Mine showed up as orange.
  I've installed these on doors mounted on "Classic Brass" butt hinges.  A pair of rare earth magnets close the door.  The Smove inside makes it all operate like magic.  Like I said, the lightest ones worked great for that.
  I also installed them behind a keyboard pull out, with accuride side mount tracks.  When the pullout was closed, it couldn't slam.  Therefore the keyboard stayed put.  That was a retrofit to please the customer, who didn't like the keyboard shifting.  I think those were the medium grade.
  The pdf's are available at Hafeleonline, as is the whole catalog.
My dad always said truly useful tools have a second usefullness.  Hidden at first & waiting to be discovered, like a screwdriver can open a can of paint, for instance.  gotta love Dad, :D  Hardware is the same thing.  The more uses you come up with the better,  therefore, the more flexible your hardware choices are, the better as well.
 
Thanks James and Terp !

The specs are no longer in the concealed hinge brochure. I found them in the Blumotion for doors brochure - go figure.  ::)

!! 4mb filehttp://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/1077_bmn4d_b/1077_bmn4d_b.pdf

Page 16 and 17

The part is 970A - seems I'm about 1" off as the specs say 32 mm from the inside corner of the upper hinge portion of the box. (for 0mm mounting plates and overlay doors) Same general location of where it is.  ;D

I will edit and update the info with the correct piston location information.  8)

quote from Terp "This position allows the self closing hinge to reach the strongest part of it's retraction spring position, prior to meeting the resistance of the Blumotion pistons." and
"By placing the piston 3-4" from the strike edge of the door. the piston works fantastic.  You'll want to vary that position slightly though in order to make a large door behave like a smaller door does."

I see the cause and effect of the optimum location of the piston.   ;) 

I like the Blum spec location because it is just far into the corner of the box that is goes unnoticed and is nearly invisible. (as long as it works correctly)

 
Overtime said:
Thanks James and Terp !

I like the Blum spec location because it is just far into the corner of the box that is goes unnoticed and is nearly invisible. (as long as it works correctly)

  I usually install the piston in a hole drilled the cabinet edge when possible.  No one has ever found them unsightly, & I find this installation is simple, once the location is determined.  Thats why I use the movable test block. 
   If you've ever seen the "touch latches" & "magnetic catches" we all used for years, in cabinets, the improvement is remarkable.  You just can't hide most door latch hardware.  These are quite minimal.
  Being able to adjust the position & the strength of the piston, with the smoves, I find to be a great advantage.
 
Hi
I am unable to view any of the photos in the article; little red cross in a block in right hand corner where pic should be.  Is this due to the settings on my computer?  Is the article available in pdf?  Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thanks
NMacK
 
Patrick: This is a great 'How-to'.  Looking forward to the base cabinets stuff.

NMacK: All the images work for me, (which isn't much help to you).  If you are on a PC/Linux try right clicking on the image, perhaps some more info will come up as to why it didn't load.

Mark

 
Thanks for the tutorial, but I have a question...  It looks like you inset the 1/4" back by 1/2" to allow for the thickness of the nailers, but then you attached a 3/4" cleat to the nailers.  Doesn't that mean that when you ultimately hang the cabinets on the wall that the sides will be spaced 3/4" from the wall?  Is that intentional?  Did you intend to put some type of trim piece over that opening?  Did I miss something?
 
Overtime. Wow what a great tutorial. Easy to follow. We will have to make you the euro king !  Except your in Iowa !!! Lol do they know about metric?  Lol

Great job. Do a mini video series now
 
Overtime said:
Case Assembly and hardware...

Here I have a Cleat with a 45 deg bevel on it...

DSC01198.jpgA1.jpg


A bumper strip was glued and brad nailed near the bottom to keep the cab level against the wall. The full load is on top cleat.

I'm dredging up old 32mm threads as I'm about to embark on my own cabinet project and, having never built cabinets before, I have a lot of questions.

For instance:

Why are the french cleats always added onto the back like this? Why couldn't the top stretcher have the french cleat and then the cabinet could lay flat on the wall without the 3/4 standoff? Is it about simplicity or is it something I'm missing? I realized that the cleat added onto the back would allow you to do just one very long cleat on the wall and then you could slide the cabinets for placement but I'm guessing most people have an exact spot in mind. I know I do.

I'd like the cabinets I make to be flush to the wall. Or shouldn't they be?

Gregor
 
Gregor,

With the method in the pic above it allows you to install the cabinets quick and easy.  Also, it give you the ability to scribe the end panel so the cabinet fits perfectly to the wall.  If you build the cabinets like the picture, you will need a end panel to hide the cleats.

Eric
 
Thanks Eric. Ill look at that today and see how flat my wall is. That and watch your videos again.
 
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