FastCap's Rip Guide

[Banana]

I’ve never used a tape based system with my tracks but Ive always wondered if they fall short when cutting larger pieces, meaning how do you guarantee that the non-rigid measuring tapes stay parallel to each other without fussing.  And when you need to move the whole setup off the table to set up the next cut isn’t it a floppy mess (?) 
It ‘seems’ like a great idea but I suspect under repetitive use it’s “close but no cigar”.

 

[Svar]

Here's why I said the product is better marginally, largely based on this footage I came across:https://www.instagram.com/p/CKJg-pNDLtB/
2) The two guides are placed on two sides far apart, and again their placement/positioning is checked by sight, meaning the two guides may not be dead parallel.

They don't have to be dead parallel. A 10 mm deviation from parallel over 1000 mm length will result in 0.05 mm error in the width of your cut. I think I can eyeball 10 mm.

 

[Packard]

Tape is accurate only if you are putting tension on the tape.  A ruler would be more accurate if you cannot apply uniform tension. 

 

[Banana]

Here's why I said the product is better marginally, largely based on this footage I came across:https://www.instagram.com/p/CKJg-pNDLtB/
2) The two guides are placed on two sides far apart, and again their placement/positioning is checked by sight, meaning the two guides may not be dead parallel.

They don't have to be dead parallel. A 10 mm deviation from parallel over 1000 mm length will result in 0.05 mm error in the width of your cut. I think I can eyeball 10 mm.

I guess that’s my point as well, having to eyeball / re-position yourself to check etc. = fussing.  Whereas something with rigid arms, you should be able to stay in place and maybe at the most shake the setup once to settle everything. 
It’s a novel concept for sure, but came from a young lady being ‘creative’, then pushed by a vlogger needing content, then picked up by Kreg / Fastcap cementing it’s novelty.
It just doesn’t seem a robust or ideal solution to me but I’m willing to be convinced otherwise.

 

[fshanno]

This looks like a very nice little system.

The price sounds steep but if you are going to break down a stack of 10 or more sheets in a single session you really need some kind of repeatable solution.  I wouldn't let the $90 stop me.

That said, if I only have 3 or 4 sheets to break down I usually just go with the old faithful, tried and true razor blades.  Practically free, no fuss at all and they certainly don't take up much room.  That method is infinitely better than pencil marks and accurate enough for case work.  I always keep a couple with nice sharp points in the systainer.

 

[mino]

The big thing for me is if I am making 12" deep cabinets that my side panels all be 11¼" wide.  If they are all 11.245"  or all 11.255" it would not make a difference.  The only real issue would be that they all be the same.

Would not fuss about 0,01 inch (0,25 mm) either but the tape was much worse. The 1 mm/500 mm gives about 11.22 vs 11.26 difference there in your example. Enough for a glue-up to not meet properly.

I was hit by the uneven elongation/manufacture of a tape measure just recently and it was a pain in the ... until I figured the issue was the tape measure and not my tools or technique ... that how actually started to focus on PGs etc. As initially I assumed my issue was the transfer of the measurement to the tool. That was just a part of the issue ...

Most quality tape measures are indeed good-enough as their (in)accuracy is consistent across length. But one shall assume all of them are so to his own peril. Especially the cheaper ones can be total crap like mine. The messy one €4 while here the most used ones sell for €2 or so ...