favorite utility (Stanley) knife?

[Discap]

I’m sure I’ll get some haters for this, but the new Snap On utility knife has replaced my drawer of others. No tools or handling of the blades. Heavy duty. Automatic feed of new blades. About $40 but it works smoothly.

Don’t remember the part #, but this is a keeper

It is a little “ungainly” but I have big paws and it’s ok.

Bill

 

[six-point socket II]

I've had so many over the years, and still have ...

If I had to pick one, it would be this Würth Utility Knife. It is as well made as the Milwaukee Fastback Gen. 2 that I have & has a bit holder, that unlike with the newer Gen. Milwaukee Fastback, is build into the rear end of the knife and not to fold out. Top notch ergonomics, at least for my hands.

To me that is the perfect utility knife to have around, easily used to cut or to fasten a screw/bolt on gardening tools, shed or fence or anywhere else in and around the house. Handle is made from Aluminum. Only drawback, it can't hold any spare blades.

It comes with some bits and a pouch.

Took a brand new one out for the picture:

[attachimg=1]

That said:

For 18mm snap off blades I prefer the Tajima DC 560. They call it the Driver Cutter, it makes a great can opener/ pry-thingie/ and could fasten a large slotted screw if necessary. The Tajima "Razar Black Blades" are by far the best I've ever used. ->https://www.tajimatool.com/product/dc-560/

I really like the Auto-loading feature of the Snap-On UTK 150, but it seems whoever is the supplier/designer of this "thing" has never heard of ergonomics ... And it gets incredibly slippery with sweat or workshop fluids. If I had a mechanic shop/employees I'd ban it straight out. That said, it's great for light duty cutting when you go through a lot of blades because what you cut is highly abrasive. ->https://shop.snapon.com/product/Utility-Knives/Auto-Loading-Utility-Knife/UTK150

Milwaukee Fastback Gen 2 is tried & true, and has been my absolute favorite until I got the Würth. I love the fact that it has a fold out holder for spare blades. Don't think the model is sold any longer by Milwaukee, but there are plenty of others in Milwaukee's line-up.

I haven't bought one yet, but this is also an interesting utility knife I think. It's a 2 in 1 utility knife & scraper. ->https://toughbuilt.com/product/scraper-utility-knife-tb-h4s5-01

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[gharel]

I've been eyeing the Exceed Designs TiRant V3 for a while. From all I've heard it's one of the better folding contractor knives.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

In 2018 Stanley bought Techni-Edge and from the look of things, drowned them in the bathtub. They were too swift to live. 

[attachimg=1]

Its curved look is similar to the Dephin 03's:
[attachimg=1]

I never carry any type of knife with me (I put utility knives just like my ear plugs, pencils, tapes, hammers, etc. all over the place in the shop), and so I chose the 03 instead of other retractable models. (In fact, I never carry anything with me or in the apron (rarely worn) while working in the shop.)

 

[Packard]

I've had so many over the years, and still have ...

If I had to pick one, it would be this Würth Utility Knife. It is as well made as the Milwaukee Fastback Gen. 2 that I have & has a bit holder, that unlike with the newer Gen. Milwaukee Fastback, is build into the rear end of the knife and not to fold out. Top notch ergonomics, at least for my hands.

To me that is the perfect utility knife to have around, easily used to cut or to fasten a screw/bolt on gardening tools, shed or fence or anywhere else in and around the house. Handle is made from Aluminum. Only drawback, it can't hold any spare blades.

It comes with some bits and a pouch.

Took a brand new one out for the picture:

[attachimg=1]

That said:

For 18mm snap off blades I prefer the Tajima DC 560. They call it the Driver Cutter, it makes a great can opener/ pry-thingie/ and could fasten a large slotted screw if necessary. The Tajima "Razar Black Blades" are by far the best I've ever used. ->https://www.tajimatool.com/product/dc-560/

I really like the Auto-loading feature of the Snap-On UTK 150, but it seems whoever is the supplier/designer of this "thing" has never heard of ergonomics ... And it gets incredibly slippery with sweat or workshop fluids. If I had a mechanic shop/employees I'd ban it straight out. That said, it's great for light duty cutting when you go through a lot of blades because what you cut is highly abrasive. ->https://shop.snapon.com/product/Utility-Knives/Auto-Loading-Utility-Knife/UTK150

Milwaukee Fastback Gen 2 is tried & true, and has been my absolute favorite until I got the Würth. I love the fact that it has a fold out holder for spare blades. Don't think the model is sold any longer by Milwaukee, but there are plenty of others in Milwaukee's line-up.

I haven't bought one yet, but this is also an interesting utility knife I think. It's a 2 in 1 utility knife & scraper. ->https://toughbuilt.com/product/scraper-utility-knife-tb-h4s5-01

Kind regards,
Oliver

My Gerber requires a single screw to be removed to replace the blade.  I see that the Wurth knife requires two screws. 

For totally wobble free blades, the screw method is the only one I found that works.  But it partially works against the concept of replaceable blades.

I find it quicker to grab my Arkansas stone and give a few quick swipes than it is to replace the blade.  A secondary benefit is the re-sharpened blade is sharper than the factory edge. 

When I had my picture framing shop, I exposed a fresh point for every dust cover I installed.  About 8 to 10 points per day.  If a dull blade were used it would leave a ragged edge.  I would then be inclined to start over with a fresh dust cover.  It was simply time and cost effective to use fresh blades each time.

I also used these blades to trim dry mounting film (wax covered paper).  A dull blade would snag the paper and that was even more time consuming to replace.  Since these were all light duty cuts, the breakaway blades made sense. 

Note:  The dry mounting paper was cut at the glass topped cutting station.  The glass made for very clean cuts, but it dulled blades very quickly.

 

[six-point socket II]

No screws on the Würth, just press & hold the black button/bar and you can replace the blade.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Packard]

No screws on the Würth, just press & hold the black button/bar and you can replace the blade.

Kind regards,
Oliver

I the blade entirely free of any wobble?

 

[Chris1970]

I use the same Irwin that Seth has and have had it for years. I also have a few of the Milwaukee fastbacks and like those too but the Irwin is my favorite.

 

[six-point socket II]

No screws on the Würth, just press & hold the black button/bar and you can replace the blade.

Kind regards,
Oliver

I the blade entirely free of any wobble?

No, absolutely not. That blade wobbles inside the holder whenever so lightly "forced". And the holder has minimal wobble against the handle when "forced".

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Packard]

The carbide blades for a Stanley however, are very interesting for certain applications.

[attachimg=1]

[/quote]

I have used both the carbide and titanium tipped utility blades.  While they seem to enhance the durability of the edge of the blade, it does not seem to do anything for the tip of the blade.

If you do a lot of trimming of paper using the tip of the blade, then the carbide and titanium blades offer little advantage from what i have seen.

But the edge of the blade does seem to stand up better, but it is no sharper than a standard blade.

 

[six-point socket II]

In another life I did pretty extensive and comprehensive testing of knives and how different steels, heat treatment, blade geometries, grinds affect edge holding and how well they take an edge. I've done this by fairly simple manual testing, other people have gone the scientific route taking microscopic pictures of edges and analyzing them, analyzing the steel's structure, (...). Obviously, this was not about utility knives/ utility knife blades.

In the end, the carbide blades will hold a rather "coarse" edge for a longer time, while a regular carbon blade will take a much finer edge and as a result be sharper. Generally speaking. This can vary to a certain extent, since manufacturers have a lot of options to play with in terms of heat treating, blade geometry, grind.

There are so many options these days, and so many claims of some being superior to others its mind boggling.

I do use the carbide blades and regular blades depending on tasks.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[ChuckM]

Oliver,

Any economical but effective kitchen knife sharpener you'd recommend (question asked by a friend recently)?

 

[six-point socket II]

I'm out of that game for a long, long time now (more than a decade and a half), Chuck. So I apologize in advance if my recommendation is/seems "dated".

One of my first purchases was the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker:https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77

I've been using it ever since. The ceramic stones are at a fixed angle, and you just slide the edge over them as if you were slicing something.

It's easy to use, easy to clean, easy to set up and takes almost no space when not in use.

It removes very little material, but removes it - and does not simply raise the "burr" back up like a sharpening steel would, and it is way more gentle than those carbide sharpeners where you pull the blade through two carbide rods forming a V.

Also there is no chance of over heating.

Economical, I'd say that probably depends. It costs 115 USD MSRP, street price should be a little lower. Will last a lifetime. If ever needed, it offers options to use the rods as "bench stones". Comes with comprehensive instructional DVD.

Very unlikely that one (even a beginner) would ruin a good blade with it.

I don't think that anyone I have ever recommended this to in the past was unhappy with the purchase.

It sure feels like I'm using mine since forever. And I think that it is still sold today as it was such a long time ago speaks also a bit for itself?

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[semenza]

I have been eyeballing that Snap On auto model, recently.  I need to get one in my hand. It looks like it might be harder to follow a line from a visibility standpoint since the front doesn't taper near the blade.

Seth

 

[WastedP]

I go with the cheap and ubiquitous 99E.  On-site, I always have one in my pocket.  In the shop, I can usually find one somewhere in a few minutes.  I've bought and lost so many of them through the years, but they always turn back up and now every desk or workbench drawer has one, there's one in the kitchen junk drawer, probably one on my dresser, no doubt one stuck down between the couch cushions.

Open a box? Mark trim cuts?  Cut a paper template?  Roofing?  Sliver surgery?  Trim shims?  Yes to all of it.

 

[six-point socket II]

I have been eyeballing that Snap On auto model, recently.  I need to get one in my hand. It looks like it might be harder to follow a line from a visibility standpoint since the front doesn't taper near the blade.

Seth

Seth,

it's probably best if you can get your hands on one. But "my helper" and me tried our best to capture what you are probably interested in seeing. Hope this helps.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

[attachimg=6]

As you can see, you need to look either from the side, or lean forward to be able to see the blade & follow the line. Let me be honest here, I would never grab this knife for this kind of work while I still have other options.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[ChuckM]

I'm out of that game for a long, long time now (more than a decade and a half), Chuck. So I apologize in advance if my recommendation is/seems "dated".

One of my first purchases was the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker:https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77

Snip.
Kind regards,
Oliver

Thanks! Passing it to my friend.

 

[Packard]

I don’t know why I feel uncomfortable using a utility knife with a slightly wobbly blade.  I much prefer that the blade be completely locked in position. I don’t think the slight wobble affects performance in any measurable way.

Not so with snap blade knives.  I know that the knives with a thumb wheel screw down lock is superior.

If you have ever tried to cut a thick piece of cardboard with one of those ratchet-notched versions, you will have experienced the blade being pulled out of the handle.  That never happens with the screw down versions.

Olfa makes a couple versions of these.  I also found that the Olfa blades start out sharper, and stay sharper than other blades I’ve used.

I’ve also used Persona blades (of shaving fame) and I was less impressed with those blades.  Note:  I only used blades my wholesaler carried.  Because I used so many blades, I was loathe to buy retail.  This all precedes Amazon.com.

 

[semenza]

Oliver,

  Thanks, your pics show what I thought might be the case. Looks a bit obscured. I also like to hold the knife at the front / blade end of the handle for scraping or "carving" type of use. Might not be good for that either. Too bad because it sure seems to have some nice features.  I will still see if the SO Truck has one on board next time I pay it a visit.

Seth

 

[ChuckM]

The blade in my Dephin 03 doesn't budge.