Festool 20mm Hinge Bit + Router Runout.

[overkill19]

 

[overkill19]

This one showed up today ! Thanks amazon!

 

[Cheese]

This one showed up today ! Thanks amazon!

Hey, hey, hey...you're back in business. I'm interested in the results...

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Overkill,

The CMT router bit may be 20mm dia, but is it designed for plunging 20mm dia holes...????

 

[overkill19]

Overkill,

The CMT router bit may be 20mm dia, but is it designed for plunging 20mm dia holes...????

I think so, I'm somewhat new to this woodworking stuff. Id planned on plunging 1/4 or 3/8 first in attempt to keep final hole cleaner and less tear out.
At $30 compared to $90 for the festool one....cheaper experiment!
I returned the festool one. If this 20mm one does not work I'm going 3/4" its easier to make home made dogs with that sizing anyway.

 

[Cheese]

I returned the festool one. If this 20mm one does not work I'm going 3/4" its easier to make home mage dogs with that sizing anyway.

I was thinking about going down that 3/4" diameter road also, but I determined that the product offerings were pretty limited when it came to clamping options. And it also seems that all of the newer offerings of dogs, clamps or stops are offered in 20mm only.

 

[overkill19]

3/4" round bar fits perfect inside
1-1/4"  .240 wall DOM tubing.

If i go 20mm its harder to get 20mm bar and id have to buy a 20mm end mill for milling machine.

Im kind of doing 2 tables. One wood one metal.

I bought thehttp://www.multifunctionslab.com/
Plans and it proved pretty much impossible to find anyone who could cnc wood... i found one guy he  changed $280. I said sure! But that was 3 months ago and after 4 calls i gave up.
So i bought the 1400, track with the holes  and the attachments for drilling holes.
So my plan was to make my own wood top the same as the plan. And have a metal table made the same. We have a local lazer company that i use all the time. 
So long winded 20 mm is easier for the metal top  but 3/4 is easier to make my own dogs

 

[Cheese]

So whatever scratches your itch...I'd be interested in how well this works out...I've always been results driven.

 

[greg mann]

Measure the distance between the inside edges of the carbide on the CMT bit. You need to predrill your holes at least that size, preferably more. That bit will not drill from solid. It can still do what you need with that first step.

 

[Dick Mahany]

I recently replicated my MFT top using a variation of the method that Toolify demonstrated in his YouTube video.  I used the Festool 20mm euro hinge bit in a Bosch 1618 router on the LR32 plate.  A few comments to offer:

1) The holes were indeed a hair larger than the stock MFT holes by ~0.05 - 0.10mm.
2) In a purely qualitative fashion using "feel" only, my Parf dogs did have slightly more play when inserted into the replicated top than the original MFT top, but it was inconsequential because when I slid a square up to them, they were just as stable.
3) I did get some burning.  This turned out to be largely from my shop vac that filled up and dust extraction became severely compromised.  A new vac bag solved that.
4) I also got a little burning when I didn't have the plunge depth set sufficiently to plunge completely through the 18mm substrate.  This left a wafer thin disk of MDF which jammed and spun with the Festool 20mm bit and caused burning when it didn't quite cut cleanly all the way through.  Simply setting the plunge depth a little deeper solved that.

Given the results vs the cost, I'm very happy with the results because I only use my MFT to machine wood, and the dogs seem to be just fine for squaring and setting references.  I will admit however, that I do like the "feel" of the dog fit better in the OEM top.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Michael Kellough]

For a little more than the cost of the Festool bit you can buy Peter's dog hole drilling kit with right sized bit included.

 

[overkill19]

Measure the distance between the inside edges of the carbide on the CMT bit. You need to predrill your holes at least that size, preferably more. That bit will not drill from solid. It can still do what you need with that first step.

Thanks,  I figured that once it showed up. " thats the trouble with buying amazon"
Like i said thou i planned on step drilling anyway.

 

[overkill19]

For a little more than the cost of the Festool bit you can buy Peter's dog hole drilling kit with right sized bit included.

Do you have a link? I tried a search with no luck.

 

[overkill19]

I recently replicated my MFT top using a variation of the method that Toolify demonstrated in his YouTube video.  I used the Festool 20mm euro hinge bit in a Bosch 1618 router on the LR32 plate.  A few comments to offer:

1) The holes were indeed a hair larger than the stock MFT holes by ~0.05 - 0.10mm.
2) In a purely qualitative fashion using "feel" only, my Parf dogs did have slightly more play when inserted into the replicated top than the original MFT top, but it was inconsequential because when I slid a square up to them, they were just as stable.
3) I did get some burning.  This turned out to be largely from my shop vac that filled up and dust extraction became severely compromised.  A new vac bag solved that.
4) I also got a little burning when I didn't have the plunge depth set sufficiently to plunge completely through the 18mm substrate.  This left a wafer thin disk of MDF which jammed and spun with the Festool 20mm bit and caused burning when it didn't quite cut cleanly all the way through.  Simply setting the plunge depth a little deeper solved that.

Given the results vs the cost, I'm very happy with the results because I only use my MFT to machine wood, and the dogs seem to be just fine for squaring and setting references.  I will admit however, that I do like the "feel" of the dog fit better in the OEM top.

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

Great stuff!! Thanks

P.S whats the bigger hole for in bottom left?

 

[dougb]

For a little more than the cost of the Festool bit you can buy Peter's dog hole drilling kit with right sized bit included.

Do you have a link? I tried a search with no luck.

I believe he was referring to the UJK Parf Guide System sold by Axminster. Found here: UJK Parf Guide System

 

[Svar]

[list type=decimal]
[*]Purchase a replacement MFT "Plate" to be used as a template  (usually around $90
[*]Clamp the template to your work-piece with a backer board underneath
[*]Use 5/8" drill bit to remove the bulk of the material from the holes
[*]Use a router with a 1/2" flush trim bit (bearing on top) to clean up the holes - leaving a perfect copy
[/list]

Exactly! The fastest method by far. Added benefit - no burning and/or chipping on the underside.

 

[Dick Mahany]

P.S whats the bigger hole for in bottom left?

I just happened to have a piece of MDF that had one rogue 35mm hole in it, so I decided to use it for the MFT replicated top.  Once it gets trimmed to fit in the MFT frame, the holes along two sides will be cut away.  Until then, I can use it as a slightly larger auxiliary top.

 

[J0hn]

Drill bushing with a wrap of electrical tape so it will fit more snugly in the "template"
View attachment 1

The bushing protects the 'template' from damage, leaving plenty of room for the 1/2" router bit
View attachment 3

You need a couple of the longer dogs that you can use to 'index' the template when your making a top bigger than the "template"
View attachment 2

I found it easier to use a foot switch with my router - no plunging.  Just start and stop once it is in the hole

 

[Svar]

Drill bushing with a wrap of electrical tape so it will fit more snugly in the "template"
View attachment 1
The bushing protects the 'template' from damage, leaving plenty of room for the 1/2" router bit
View attachment 3

That's clever idea with the bushing for centering.
I used 1/2 drill bit and 1/2 router bit. You can still push through the latter through 1/2 pilot hole, but I guess 5/8 is better.

 

[overkill19]

Drill bushing with a wrap of electrical tape so it will fit more snugly in the "template"
View attachment 1
The bushing protects the 'template' from damage, leaving plenty of room for the 1/2" router bit
View attachment 3

That's clever idea with the bushing for centering.
I used 1/2 drill bit and 1/2 router bit. You can still push through the latter through 1/2 pilot hole, but I guess 5/8 is better.

I did the same thing...kinda!
I had my local Laser cutter build me my template. I took my 27mm od bushing to them and they zeroed it in. Had to grind the bushing flatter to match the aluminium thickness. Trimmed my cmt router bit to size to fit the parf dog a little better!

Grid is bigger but all 4 sides are square to the holes so it can be placed any direction.

The template cost me $180cad but ill get lots of use out of it. While i was at laser dudes he's blasting out a welding table top too! 3/4" plate and 19.98" holes zeroed to match the parf dogs! Ill post a pic when he's done... they only do heavy stuff when they have enough all at once!
https://vimeo.com/202671059