bkharman said:2 Comments. The "mystery strap Thingy" is for folks outside of NA. It allows them to lock the power switch for us CMS users.
The Blade ejector seems like something I would rather enjoy. I often have to fight with my jigsaw when the blade is dull (and very hot) and I think that would be a perfect thing for me to shoot into a bucket or trash bin.
I am jealous of all of these but think i would rather enjoy the mains version... and perhaps the D handle (really like my D handle drivers!)
Bryan
Paul G said:Great read Frank, many thanks. My test request is how tight a clean radius can the carvex cut using the jig. Also sure wish you could get your hands on a Mafell to compare with also.
jmbfestool said:You said in one of your Posts: The blower on the Bosch did not help much, if at all.
Yet at the end you said:
The Bosch JS572EB is a very good saw. There are features that I like on it that are not on my faithful Trion. These are the blower, the light, and the much better non-90 degree angle cutting with positive stops.
Frank Pellow said:jmbfestool said:You said in one of your Posts: The blower on the Bosch did not help much, if at all.
Yet at the end you said:
The Bosch JS572EB is a very good saw. There are features that I like on it that are not on my faithful Trion. These are the blower, the light, and the much better non-90 degree angle cutting with positive stops.
That may seem like a contradiction but it is not. I did not find the blower on the Bosch to be helpful in that particular task, but I did find it to be helpful elsewhere. I wish that the Carvex had a blower.
elimelech12 said:On another I was thinking of the angled base...I posted this on Paul Marcel's review and was wondering your take on this-
I was pretty sure about my preorder over a month ago, but the angled base is a real turn off especially that there's no dust collection. Makes absolutely no sense to me being it is Festool.
It also appears that cutting an inward bevel (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) on a scribe line would pose a problem if the line goes toward the work piece. Would the base hit the work piece being it folds down into 90 degrees and rests against the edge you are cutting off? Eventually I see the front of the base making contact. (Hope you understood)
Also I see a problem cutting an inward angle (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) if the cut needs to be made a half inch or slightly more/less into the piece. Where would the support be? It couldn't support safely on the little bit of base left or on the material that's being removed. Or if the base is folded to 90 would you even be able to begin the cut?
SRSemenza said:Frank,
Great review , can't wait for the rest.
How do you feel about the "open hand" grip on the Carvex barrel grip saws? In other words when I checked one out I noticed that it is more difficult (or not possible) to wrap fingers around under the body of the saw. Hope I explained that well enough.
Seth
Frank Pellow said:(3) Depending on the position of the blade holding mechanism after one shuts off the saw, the blade ejection mechanism is not always properly aligned, therefore it does not always work. These photos illustrate this:
elimelech12 said:On another I was thinking of the angled base...I posted this on Paul Marcel's review and was wondering your take on this-
I was pretty sure about my preorder over a month ago, but the angled base is a real turn off especially that there's no dust collection. Makes absolutely no sense to me being it is Festool.
It also appears that cutting an inward bevel (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) on a scribe line would pose a problem if the line goes toward the work piece. Would the base hit the work piece being it folds down into 90 degrees and rests against the edge you are cutting off? Eventually I see the front of the base making contact. (Hope you understood)
Also I see a problem cutting an inward angle (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) if the cut needs to be made a half inch or slightly more/less into the piece. Where would the support be? It couldn't support safely on the little bit of base left or on the material that's being removed. Or if the base is folded to 90 would you even be able to begin the cut?
elimelech12 said:It also appears that cutting an inward bevel (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) on a scribe line would pose a problem if the line goes toward the work piece. Would the base hit the work piece being it folds down into 90 degrees and rests against the edge you are cutting off? Eventually I see the front of the base making contact. (Hope you understood)
elimelech12 said:Also I see a problem cutting an inward angle (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) if the cut needs to be made a half inch or slightly more/less into the piece. Where would the support be? It couldn't support safely on the little bit of base left or on the material that's being removed. Or if the base is folded to 90 would you even be able to begin the cut?
Shane Holland said:I think I understand your questions.
elimelech12 said:It also appears that cutting an inward bevel (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) on a scribe line would pose a problem if the line goes toward the work piece. Would the base hit the work piece being it folds down into 90 degrees and rests against the edge you are cutting off? Eventually I see the front of the base making contact. (Hope you understood)
Turn and cut from the opposite direction. Then the angle base is at an acute angle rather than obtuse, but your bevel is the same.
elimelech12 said:Also I see a problem cutting an inward angle (meaning: causing the edge of the stock to become less 90) if the cut needs to be made a half inch or slightly more/less into the piece. Where would the support be? It couldn't support safely on the little bit of base left or on the material that's being removed. Or if the base is folded to 90 would you even be able to begin the cut?
First, you flip cut in the opposite direction assuming there is more support on the other side of the cut. I doubt you've be cutting something only a couple of inches wide, so presumably more support on the other side.
Also, if you think the base is too narrow, there are screws that hold the plastic runners on the bottom of the base. You could remove the plastic runner(s) and add a piece of thin wood, Plexi, or something else to make the base wider using the existing screws, or longer screws if necessary. So, you could make the base as wide as you wanted.
You've got 30 days to try it out for yourself to see if it meets your expectations/needs.
elimelech12 said:Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?