Festool Carvex 420 (both corded & battery) - Comparisons

[festnoob]

Also, if you think the base is too narrow, there are screws that hold the plastic runners on the bottom of the base. You could remove the plastic runner(s) and add a piece of thin wood, Plexi, or something else to make the base wider using the existing screws, or longer screws if necessary. So, you could make the base as wide as you wanted.

Wouldn't that be considered modifying a tool? Big no-no on the FOG [poke] Or is it ok because it's an accessory? [scratch chin] This thread is now locked!  [big grin]

Also, I thought about your responses but I cannot get my head around the angle base. When I build cabinets I leave a 1/2 on the ends for scribing an inward 15 degree scribe. Most of the time I take off a 1/4-3/8 depending on the wall, sometimes less. It does not seem possible in my mind. It seems that if the Carvex is going left to right or right to left with the base in the obtuse position, then it would be hanging off the stock or resting by a hair on the stock being removed.

And if the base were in the acute or, better yet, reflex position then the part of the base that overhangs the edge that I'm cutting would make contact with the piece if the scribe line is further in from the immediate edge.

(And no dust collection???) [jawdrop]

Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?

Ah, yes, good point. No, our 30-day return guarantee only applies to the tool. Sorry.

However, some dealers may offer their own 30-day return policy on products probably with the condition that its returned in like new condition.

That's a $200 risk.  [crying]

 

[semenza]

Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?

Ah, yes, good point. No, our 30-day return guarantee only applies to the tool. Sorry.

However, some dealers may offer their own 30-day return policy on products probably with the condition that its returned in like new condition.

That's a $200 risk.  [crying]

Ask before you buy  [thumbs up]

Seth

 

[Paul G]

That's a $200 risk.  [crying]

I'm sure you could sell a barely used accessory kit to mitigate your risk

 

[festnoob]

Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?

Ah, yes, good point. No, our 30-day return guarantee only applies to the tool. Sorry.

However, some dealers may offer their own 30-day return policy on products probably with the condition that its returned in like new condition.

That's a $200 risk.  [crying]

Ask before you buy  [thumbs up]

Seth

I think I'll be passing on the carvex. Its unfortunate because I was really looking forward to it. I sold my ps300 for it but looking back I miss it. (Just like I sold my 55 for the req  [doh] ) No dust collection on the angle base was the icing on the cake. I think when more people become aware of this we will see the results here. But thanks for the help.

 

[RONWEN]

Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?

Ah, yes, good point. No, our 30-day return guarantee only applies to the tool. Sorry.

However, some dealers may offer their own 30-day return policy on products probably with the condition that its returned in like new condition.

Although I've never used the 30 return offer, I never realized it was limited -- is that to say that the return policy only applies to "powered" items?

 

[RONWEN]

Very good information throughout the thread Frank, THANKS VERY MUCH!

Also, another great manual by Rick!

 

[ScotF]

Thanks...would the 30 days apply to the accessory kit also?

Ah, yes, good point. No, our 30-day return guarantee only applies to the tool. Sorry.

However, some dealers may offer their own 30-day return policy on products probably with the condition that its returned in like new condition.

Although I've never used the 30 return offer, I never realized it was limited -- is that to say that the return policy only applies to "powered" items?

I think it applies to whatever Festool identifies as a tool -- MFT/3's count as a tool, the Workcenter, Stool, etc...  I am sure Shane can also weigh in.

Scot

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

A tool is any product with a serial number for the purposes of our guarantee.

 

[Frank Pellow]

The chip guard is semi-built in and it is easier to utilize than it is with the Trion.  However, it is difficult to slide the chip guard up and down.  I seem to need more than the recommended “minimal pressure” in order to get it to move.  This is true on both saws.

Frank:

I also struggled to move the chip guard up and down at first. Then, I realized that if you use one finger or a thumb on the ridges in the front of the saw, it moves easily. There are ridges on each side also and it looks like that is where one would grab it but grabbing it there seems to lock it in place. It's a "head fake"...

Please try just using the front ridges and report back?

Tom

Tom, that helps a little bit but I still find moving the guard up and down to be awkward.

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,

      Great review , can't wait for the rest.

      How do you feel about the "open hand" grip on the Carvex barrel grip saws?  In other words  when I checked one out I noticed that it is more difficult (or not possible) to wrap fingers around under the  body of the saw.  Hope I explained that well enough.

Seth

Thanks Seth.  You are correct about it not being possible to wrap ones fingers under the body of the saw (unless one has very big hands).  For me that's not a big deal because I didn't wrap my fingers around that way on either the PS2 or the Trion (although it was possible to do so).

 

[Frank Pellow]

Nice review Frank.

Thanks Alex, I am happy that I was given the opportunity to test all these saws.

[quote author=AlexR] I've got the 420 corded barrel , 4 months now and wish i'd gone with d handle. The d handle can be used in same way as barrel grip as in has switch and hand positioning as barrel grip.The switch on my barrel i'm getting use to but have had a few near accidents. The switch works by pushing forward to come on and remains on even if you let go, you have to push forward again to switch off. This helps in fact that the barrel grip is hard to wrap fingers around and hold switch on.  Can't see how festool gets around this with all safety regulations now days
[/quote]

As I mentioned in my review, I too was surprised by the position of the switches and the by  the 'push forward to shut off' action.  I still have not gotten used to this after about 10 hours of use.

[quote author=AlexR]
The blade retracting to correct position for ejecting only happens occasional on mine and i just push the blade on a hard service sending blade back  into correct position.
[/quote]

Yeh, that works, but I wish that it was not necessary.

[quote author=AlexR]
I do find the saw takes longer to do same cut as my makita but does a better job/ quality of cut is quite suprising for a jigsaw. Guides allow very smooth tight curves and cuts at 90'. I am finding if you do any curves it wrecks splinter guide or even changing pendulum seems to do them in. Just another cost to consider. I order the 20 packs now.
[/quote]

I agree that the splinter guards don't seem to last very long.  Mostly, I don't use them.

[quote author=AlexR]
I find the saw jumpy on pendulum setting 4 feels like i've got down cut blade in.  I find the saw cuts better at setting 2. This jumpyness i think comes from higher rpm that the saw runs at.
[/quote]

There is no 4 setting on my saws.  I find that they run well at setting  3 and that is what I usually use.

[quote author=AlexR]
I hate the strobe so set lights to normal which is a nice feature.
[/quote]

I don't like the stobe when I can see the strobe effect but I usually run the saws at the A (automatic) speed and, with this setting, the stobe is kept in sync with the blade movement and I don't notice it.

[quote author=AlexR]
The dust front shroud never stays down on mine ended up duct taping.
[/quote]

I have not had this problem.

[quote author=AlexR]
Funny Frank had the angle base screw fall apart as i had same bit fall off first use,been a bit more careful and it hasn't come off again.
[/quote]

Mine only came off the first time, but you can be certain that I am keeping my eye on it.

[quote author=AlexR]
I use jigsaw mainly for flooring and roofing.
[/quote]

I use mine for most everything.   [big grin]

 

[Laminator]

Great review!  Thanks.  I received my D- handle carvex yesterday and just played with it a little and am really impressed as compared to the disappointment of when I first got the trion.   

Just wanted to add a tidbit about the D-handle.  The trigger lock button, unlike all others before it, is now a safety lock that must be pressed before the trigger will move.  I find this to be a major nuisance and very surprised that it is this way.

 

[Frank Pellow]

Great read Frank, many thanks. My test request is how tight a clean radius can the carvex cut using the jig. Also sure wish you could get your hands on a Mafell to compare with also.

The tightest radius that I can cut is 6 centimetres.  The tape goes down to 4 centimetres but there is no access to the hole where one hammers in the pin until the tape is pulled out to 6 centimetres.  The photo below should illustrate this:

[attachimg=#1]

The cut, in 15 mm thick Baltic birch plywood and using a S 75/4 fast scrolling blade, was very good (in spite of the fact that I did not use a splinter guard). The resulting disk had an accurate diameter of 12 centimetres and the sides were cut at exactly 90 degrees.

A 12 centimetre diameter circle is certainly small enough for me.  I own a whole range of hole saw blades for smaller circles.

 

[Paul G]

Great read Frank, many thanks. My test request is how tight a clean radius can the carvex cut using the jig. Also sure wish you could get your hands on a Mafell to compare with also.

The tightest radius that I can cut is 6 centimetres.  The tape goes down to 4 centimetres but there is no access to the hole where one hammers in the pin until the tape is pulled out to 6 centimetres.  The photo below should illustrate this:

[attachimg=#1]

The cut, in Baltic birch and using a S 75/4 fast scrolling blade, was very good (in spite of the fact that I did not use a splinter guard). The resulting disk had an accurate diameter of 12 centimetres and the sides were cut at exactly 90 degrees.

A 12 centimetre diameter circle is certainly small enough for me.  I own a whole range of hole saw blades for smaller circles.

I'm honored by such a thorough investigation in response to my question, very clear and informative, my thanks to you

 

[NJHW]

Thanks for the great review! How bad is the Carvex without the blower and without using a dust extractor? does the light help to still see your cutting line? Thanks again.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

The tightest radius that I can cut is 6 centimetres.  The tape goes down to 4 centimetres but there is no access to the hole where one hammers in the pin until the tape is pulled out to 6 centimetres.  The photo below should illustrate this:

In the event that you need to go below 60mm, you can always use a screw for your trammel point. The included trammel point is a convenience, but you can use any trammel point you wish.

 

[Frank Pellow]

The tightest radius that I can cut is 6 centimetres.  The tape goes down to 4 centimetres but there is no access to the hole where one hammers in the pin until the tape is pulled out to 6 centimetres.  The photo below should illustrate this:

In the event that you need to go below 60mm, you can always use a screw for your trammel point. The included trammel point is a convenience, but you can use any trammel point you wish.

Right you are Rick.  Thanks, I had not thought of that.  I will try it.

later:  I managed to cut a (good) circle 88 mm in diameter.  That's as small as I can manage.

 

[Frank Pellow]

In another thread Tallgrass said:  "My beef with the carvex is not being able to cut an angle while using the circle cutter. I was planning on cutting arks with a bevel. I gues I am alone in this.  O, well I will figure out how to cut my arch with a bevel some other way.  Otherwise I like the saw so far."

There is a way to do this if you are willing to cut the circle twice.

First, cut the circle with a radius 4 mm wider than the final circular piece.

Then, with the butterfly thingy positioned as shown and using a S 75/4 fast scrolling blade:

[attachthumb=#1]

cut around the entire perimeter of the circle.

My resulting circle in 15 mm Baltic birch plywood is acceptable:

crosscut view:

                       [attachimg=#2]
side view:

                       [attachimg=#3]

It would probably have been even better if I had used a splinter guard.

 

[Paul G]

In another thread Tallgrass said:  "My beef with the carvex is not being able to cut an angle while using the circle cutter. I was planning on cutting arks with a bevel. I gues I am alone in this.  O, well I will figure out how to cut my arch with a bevel some other way.  Otherwise I like the saw so far."

There is a way to do this if you are willing to cut the circle twice.

First, cut the circle with a radius 4 mm wider than the final circular piece.

Then, with the butterfly thingy positioned as shown and using a S 75/4 fast scrolling blade:

[attachthumb=#1]

cut around the entire perimeter of the circle.

My resulting circle in 15 mm Baltic birch plywood is acceptable:

crosscut view:

                       [attachimg=#2]
side view:

                       [attachimg=#3]

It would probably have been even better if I had used a splinter guard.

If the keeper piece is the hole and want it beveled it seems we're out of luck with this tool and may need to turn to something else like a router. At this point I can only hope Festool or a 3rd party later offers a regular angle base that can connect to the circle cutter. Self balancing/supporting and reversing like the Mafell would be even better and dust control would be the icing

 

[GhostFist]

Would the butterfly base end up crushing the edge using this technique? Perhaps not as the leading edge of the circle is not sharp. Your results look good on your given example and probably get better with larger arcs, but for smaller radius do you feel there is more risk of rocking the saw creating a compound angle on the bevel?

Just asking