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Three videos showing how to set up the CMS, using it for cope and stick joinery, and for raised panels. For anyone who missed the livestream and didn't attend the event. Enjoy.
Festool Connect 2013 Video - CMS Router Table
- Thread starter Administrator_JSVN
- Start date
Very compelling videos showing the CMS strutting its stuff. Glad I have one!
Peter
Peter
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- Jan 22, 2007
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- 1,641
It's always fun to watch Brian Sedgeley do a demonstration. It's entertaining enough that I still watched all 3 videos back-to-back just for fun, even though I already know the capabilities of the CMS system.
I do have one minor tip for anyone doing raised panels though. As Brian pointed out, you should always do end-grain before long-grain on your profile cuts to reduce the effects of tearout. However, Brian made it a point to do both end-grain cuts before doing either long-grain cut.
You really only need to make one end-grain cut first, and then as long as you rotate the vertical workpiece clockwise, you won’t have tearout on the second end-grain cut. It is a smoother movement of the workpiece when you are just rotating it 90 degrees between each pass, versus 180 degrees, then 90, then 180.
One point of clarification to what I just said though. When you are doing vertical panels, like what Brian showed, it is a clockwise rotation of the workpiece as viewed from the front. If you are using a horizontal panel raising bit, then it is a counterclockwise rotation as viewed from above. (The principle is the same, it is just the words necessary to describe the rotation that are different.)
In simpler terms, your previous corner that already has some profile cut, is the end of the cut that should enter the cutter first. The trailing end of the cut is the one that is still uncut.
I do have one minor tip for anyone doing raised panels though. As Brian pointed out, you should always do end-grain before long-grain on your profile cuts to reduce the effects of tearout. However, Brian made it a point to do both end-grain cuts before doing either long-grain cut.
You really only need to make one end-grain cut first, and then as long as you rotate the vertical workpiece clockwise, you won’t have tearout on the second end-grain cut. It is a smoother movement of the workpiece when you are just rotating it 90 degrees between each pass, versus 180 degrees, then 90, then 180.
One point of clarification to what I just said though. When you are doing vertical panels, like what Brian showed, it is a clockwise rotation of the workpiece as viewed from the front. If you are using a horizontal panel raising bit, then it is a counterclockwise rotation as viewed from above. (The principle is the same, it is just the words necessary to describe the rotation that are different.)
In simpler terms, your previous corner that already has some profile cut, is the end of the cut that should enter the cutter first. The trailing end of the cut is the one that is still uncut.
Papajoe
Member
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- Mar 19, 2011
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- 37
great videos showing operations on a cms. my concern was the chips and dust everywhere on the raised panel (#3 video). as part of my mental justification to purchase a cmd-vl was the dust collection. Brian states in the video, that the dust would be less if he slowed down? if im raising several panels, i wouldnt want to go slower than he did? does anyone with the cms have input for how to keep the dust "collected"
thank you
joe
thank you
joe
tjbnwi
Member
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- May 12, 2008
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- 7,059
With my apologies to Sedge and Steve, they fabricated the fence incorrectly. By allowing the lower gap to the deck, dust will be thrown to the left of the extraction area faster than it can be collected. They could have corrected most of this by sliding the main left fence to the left 1 to 1.5". They should also install a filler between their sub fence and the deck.
All of the sub fences I make, I fabricate them so they contact the deck of the CMS. In the case of the panel raising fence, it would have an opening starting, 1/4" to the right of the bit ending 1.5-2" to the left of the bit. Height would be 3/8-1/2" greater than the height of the set bit. Te left main fence would be moved to the left 1-1.5". This allows the dust as it is being thrown to the left to be collected. With the sub fence supporting the worked piece, zero clearance is not needed in this situation, I've never found zero clearance to be needed at all on a router table. Zero clearance only limits the ability for the dust to travel to the vacuum port.
I ordered the proper feather keys for the CMS fence from Festool. They work better than plain nits to attach the sub fences to the main fence.
All direction reference are viewed from the operator position.
Tom
All of the sub fences I make, I fabricate them so they contact the deck of the CMS. In the case of the panel raising fence, it would have an opening starting, 1/4" to the right of the bit ending 1.5-2" to the left of the bit. Height would be 3/8-1/2" greater than the height of the set bit. Te left main fence would be moved to the left 1-1.5". This allows the dust as it is being thrown to the left to be collected. With the sub fence supporting the worked piece, zero clearance is not needed in this situation, I've never found zero clearance to be needed at all on a router table. Zero clearance only limits the ability for the dust to travel to the vacuum port.
I ordered the proper feather keys for the CMS fence from Festool. They work better than plain nits to attach the sub fences to the main fence.
All direction reference are viewed from the operator position.
Tom
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