Festool CSC SYS 50 Saw cutting curved!

BigDean

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2023
Messages
14
Hi all, I have had the saw for a few months and generally it has been accurate. I started to make a chess board yesterday and noticed a problem before gluing up. The gaps between the rips were all over the place.

On closer inspection, the cut is not straight. It is like a banana. One side is slightly convex, the other slight concave.

So:
I cleaned the blade
I changed to different blades (brand new)
I tried with both just the riving knife as well as the riving knife with protective cover
I have calibrated the machine for cutting angle
I have carried out the reference drive
I have tried adjusting the fence both ways
I have tried walnut, maple and 4x2 CLS

My reference edge is a Benchdogs straight edge (check against others and it is perfect)

I slept on it and came out fresh this morning. No change.

If I do a simple test and take a piece of 4x2, rip down the middle then take this to my planer, it clearly planes off the concave/convex areas to make it flat.

Can anyone suggest anything else to try? I cant even work out what would cause this. Seems unlikely to be a fault unit.

Thanks
Dean

PS Sorry if I posted in wrong section, cant work out how to change.

 
 
[member=80808]BigDean[/member]

Have you done another test on a stable material, like plywood?  If it's doing the same thing with the plywood, then almost certainly the problem is with the machine.

BigDean said:
Hi all, I have had the saw for a few months and generally it has been accurate. I started to make a chess board yesterday and noticed a problem before gluing up. The gaps between the rips were all over the place.

On closer inspection, the cut is not straight. It is like a banana. One side is slightly convex, the other slight concave.

So:
I cleaned the blade
I changed to different blades (brand new)
I tried with both just the riving knife as well as the riving knife with protective cover
I have calibrated the machine for cutting angle
I have carried out the reference drive
I have tried adjusting the fence both ways
I have tried walnut, maple and 4x2 CLS

My reference edge is a Benchdogs straight edge (check against others and it is perfect)

I slept on it and came out fresh this morning. No change.

If I do a simple test and take a piece of 4x2, rip down the middle then take this to my planer, it clearly planes off the concave/convex areas to make it flat.

Can anyone suggest anything else to try? I cant even work out what would cause this. Seems unlikely to be a fault unit.

Thanks
Dean

PS Sorry if I posted in wrong section, cant work out how to change.
 
woodferret said:
How did you establish a straight ref edge to ride along the fence?

The initial edge when I started was from the planer, but fair point. When I test the ply this afternoon, I will also plane some hardwood to ensure I have a straight edge before a sample cut. Will report back.

Thanks
 
Well, that was an afternoon! Looks like I am all sorted now.

I had calibrated the old blade, not the new blade. Turns out that was requiring a different angle setting! My mistake, but lesson learned that whenever changing a blade, calibrate. Then run some stable stock through to check before getting exotic.....

That was some of my error. I also suspect that my original planning was not 100%. I don't know why I think this, but I started from scratch and spent far more time planing and thicknessing, and CHECKING for square far more often, instead of presuming I am good enough not to check!

So, in summary, all me.

Thanks for the input everyone, and hope that this at least stays out there as a lesson for us newbies.....

BigDean.
 
I have a 8” planer with helical head cutters.

I noticed my wood coming off the planer was dished. Sorta banana shaped. Turns out my infeed and outfeed tables were not coplaner. Found a good video on adjusting my planer. Very fussy work.

If your planer is out of adjustment, the table saw can follow the curve left by the planer. This is how I learned my planer needed adjusting.
 
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