Festool CSC SYS 50 Tablesaw

Very good so far, battery life is good too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I am relative newbie to european style sliders... but one question came up for me.  How does one do a rip cut with a bevel since the blade tilts towards the fence?
 
woodferret said:
I am relative newbie to european style sliders... but one question came up for me.  How does one do a rip cut with a bevel since the blade tilts towards the fence?
Click to expand...

As usual, just need to find a way to add a hold down to the fence in case the wood wants to bow up.
 
woodferret said:
I am relative newbie to european style sliders... but one question came up for me.  How does one do a rip cut with a bevel since the blade tilts towards the fence?
Click to expand...

Per to the manual, you:
  • Remove the preset profile setting rail [= the mitre gauge]
  • Fit the parallel side fence [= the (removable) fence]
  • If the saw blade is inclined towards the par­allel side fence [9B] [it always is, unless you're cutting at 0 to -10°]:
    • Rotate the stop rail [9-1]  [=the alu profile attached to fence] so that the lower side faces the saw blade so that there is more space for the push stick and the saw blade does not come into contact with the stop rail [=so it's more like a backwards L, rather than a P]
    • If there is still insufficient space for the push stick between the protective cover [blade guard] and stop rail, use a push block [not supplied -- a grripper works well]
    • In order to prevent jams and workpiece kickbacks [which is what I presume [member=72072]woodferret[/member] is asking about], set the stop rail so that its rear end is at the height of a 45° line leading from the centre of the saw blade
  • Set the inclination angle of the saw blade on the control module [the screen]
  • Guide the workpiece along the parallel side fence

And the relevant pic, to make it clearer:
[attachimg=1]

I ripped some cleats last weekend and it worked really well, despite my misgivings about the whole setup.

Side note: I wish Festool had used industry standard terminology when translating this manual into English, rather than making up their own. I found myself constantly having to look at the pics to figure out what they were talking about. "Spacer wedge"? -- what's wrong with riving knife or splitter? And -- splutter --  "preset profile setting rail" for mitre gauge? C'mon ::)

(Though I should say that they deserve credit for having written a slightly better and more instructive manual than usual in this case -- terminology excepted.)

 

Attachments

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dunk said:
My setup.

5a2cfc4fcce56f4efd54bd6fcffd6eab.jpg

...
Click to expand...

I'm trying to understand the flat blade cover in [member=9059]dunk[/member] 's picture. Festool show how to create one in their quick guide video:


As a newbie table saw user, I cannot figure out when I would want use it.
  • If I'm doing a wide rip cut or a cross cut, then -- at least from Festool's point of view -- the supplied blade guard should do the job, shouldn't it? (I know that a lot of woodworkers never use the supplied blade guard, for various reasons.)
  • If I'm doing a thin rip cut, then I don't want a blade cover or blade guard at all, as I will generally want to use a push stick or push block, at least at the end -- and this flat cover or the supplied blade guard would interfere with that (and also may interfere with the fence).
  • Festool's video says: "For special work (e.g. groove cuts) you have to cover the saw blade. In this video we show you how to make such a cover quickly and easily.". But why would you want to cover the blade for a groove cut? Aren't you using a push block in this scenario?
So why does Festool show us how to build one of these?  The phrase "For special work (e.g. groove cuts) you have to cover the saw blade" sounds like they are citing a legal requirement, but if so, why isn't the cover included with the saw?

Under what circumstances would I want to use this? [member=9059]dunk[/member] 's example -- for partial thin rip cuts -- seems like a situation in which I might want a flat cover, but it's not what Festool is saying.

And a secondary question: Does it help with dust collection in some scenarios?

I'm an experienced track saw user, but I'm new to table saws with the CSC SYS 50. So still finding my way.
 
There's a joke I heard from a German carpenter that they went into building kid's tree houses because they finally get to work with wood.

The CSC50 is targeted for those engineered materials so one assumes it's relatively flat/stable and can thus run a groove without a over blade pushblock like the Grr-riper or shoe. 

The picture IF it was intact stock, would have been considered lazy and one should have switched to the full guard for a through cut.  But, the notches in the pictured stock make it 50-50 on whether the guard and paws would catch - so this is one of those special situations I guess you're talking about.
 
ElectricFeet said:
dunk said:
My setup.

5a2cfc4fcce56f4efd54bd6fcffd6eab.jpg

...
Click to expand...

I'm trying to understand the flat blade cover in [member=9059]dunk[/member] 's picture. Festool show how to create one in their quick guide video:


As a newbie table saw user, I cannot figure out when I would want use it.
  • If I'm doing a wide rip cut or a cross cut, then -- at least from Festool's point of view -- the supplied blade guard should do the job, shouldn't it? (I know that a lot of woodworkers never use the supplied blade guard, for various reasons.)
  • If I'm doing a thin rip cut, then I don't want a blade cover or blade guard at all, as I will generally want to use a push stick or push block, at least at the end -- and this flat cover or the supplied blade guard would interfere with that (and also may interfere with the fence).
  • Festool's video says: "For special work (e.g. groove cuts) you have to cover the saw blade. In this video we show you how to make such a cover quickly and easily.". But why would you want to cover the blade for a groove cut? Aren't you using a push block in this scenario?
So why does Festool show us how to build one of these?  The phrase "For special work (e.g. groove cuts) you have to cover the saw blade" sounds like they are citing a legal requirement, but if so, why isn't the cover included with the saw?

Under what circumstances would I want to use this? [member=9059]dunk[/member] 's example -- for partial thin rip cuts -- seems like a situation in which I might want a flat cover, but it's not what Festool is saying.

And a secondary question: Does it help with dust collection in some scenarios?

I'm an experienced track saw user, but I'm new to table saws with the CSC SYS 50. So still finding my way.
Click to expand...

I personally use it for small rebate cuts, I also like to see what I’m doing and use it instead of the crown guard. I think for me it’s just a personal preference.

I’m not a lover of using a table saw without a crown guard for safety reasons and as I said earlier it gives me a little bit more visibility.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Thanks to both. And thanks also to [member=9059]dunk[/member] for showing the bow featherboard fp5 (portable saw version) in the pic. I picked one up and it's way better than my old ones and works with the saw really well.
 
[member=80384]unknown user[/member], if you mean via bluetooth yes, via 202097. Btw welcome to the fog
 
[member=73185]Bencan[/member] I noticed your miter fence is black with graduations on it. Did that come with your saw? Mine has a plain silver fence.
 
JimH2 said:
[member=73185]Bencan[/member] I noticed your miter fence is black with graduations on it. Did that come with your saw? Mine has a plain silver fence.
Click to expand...

That's a Benchdogs fence (logo in the lower right corner)
 
Thanks and available in Imperial. Probably can order it to size to avoid the cut. Now off to making the blade cover.
 
Just contacted Benchdog and they are going to make a fence for the CSC. He said check Instagram to see when it is ready.
 
Hey, is there an adjustment for leveling the sliding table?  On mine, the table slopes downward, with the outside edge sitting approximately 1mm lower than the level of the fixed table.  This results in mitered cuts being not quite square if the workpiece is sitting flat on the sliding table.
 
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