Festool CSC SYS 50 Tablesaw

[woodferret]

For the brief time I had it, it kicks slightly more sawdust than the TS55, but this time at your belly.  You don't get the overhead boom for your sawstop?

 

[ElectricFeet]

I would assume SYS 50 would be powerful enough to me.

I've not had any problems at all.

How about dust collection of SYS 50, do you all satisfied with the dust collection?
The TSC 55 track saw dust collection is  kind of disappointing to me because it always generate duct at front even I connected to festool dust extractor.

As [member=72072]woodferret[/member] says, it kicks dust forward. Get an apron  [big grin]

The dust collection is better if you use the blade guard, but of course there are many occasions where it's not practical and using the riving knife alone is the only way you can make a cut.

A D36 hose makes a significant difference and is worth using, IMO. You can only use it if you have the adaptor/connector for the TS55. In my experience, the D36 hose brings the dust down to a level well below the TS55.

 

[lshj]

For the brief time I had it, it kicks slightly more sawdust than the TS55, but this time at your belly.  You don't get the overhead boom for your sawstop?

Thank you. So the duct only come on the top to the front, no dust at the bottom cabinet? The Sawstop contractor saw is pretty open and generate tons of dust underneath.  It looks like the dust collection of SYS 50 will be very similar to Sawstop cabinet tablesaw?

 

[woodferret]

For the brief time I had it, it kicks slightly more sawdust than the TS55, but this time at your belly.  You don't get the overhead boom for your sawstop?

Thank you. So the duct only come on the top to the front, no dust at the bottom cabinet? The Sawstop contractor saw is pretty open and generate tons of dust underneath.  It looks like the dust collection of SYS 50 will be very similar to Sawstop cabinet tablesaw?

The CSC50's saw collection is underbody.  The top-side dust poof is usually from that last bit of cut-through at the tailend of the stock, like the TS55.  While that dam is intact, most of the dust does get sucked into the body.

 

[lshj]

I've not had any problems at all.

Thank you. I think SYS 50 combined with TSC55 track saw would be good for most of the application?

A track saw is good to rip large board. I will use SYS 50  mostly for fine cutting or do some joinery cutting. I have a bandsaw to resaw thick wood, and jointer/planner to smooth the surface. But my space is limited and have no extra space for the full size table saw with big table top. My Sawstop contractor saw is now in my backyard shed because I have no space for it in my garage.  I hope SYS 50 would be good enough for fine cutting and joinery cutting.

 

[jujigatame]

I've not had any problems at all.

Thank you. I think SYS 50 combined with TSC55 track saw would be good for most of the application?

A track saw is good to rip large board. I will use SYS 50  mostly for fine cutting or do some joinery cutting. I have a bandsaw to resaw thick wood, and jointer/planner to smooth the surface. But my space is limited and have no extra space for the full size table saw with big table top. My Sawstop contractor saw is now in my backyard shed because I have no space for it in my garage.  I hope SYS 50 would be good enough for fine cutting and joinery cutting.

I'd recommend going with the TS60 as a compliment to the SYS 50 as they use the same blades and you can interchange them between the saws.

 

[lshj]

I'd recommend going with the TS60 as a compliment to the SYS 50 as they use the same blades and you can interchange them between the saws.

Good suggestion. Unfortunately, I already have the TS 55.

 

[Hirezz]

I already had an Incra fence in a shopping basket when I saw the video linked below comparing it to a Hongdui fence. I have some Hongdui products which are amazingly well made, and would probably prefer their fence to Incra's.

If someone here happens to have the Hongdui HD-KS22 fence I'd greatly appreciate if you could either check if it fits the CSC SYS, or take measurements of the position of its mounting t-slot.

Hongdui HD-KS22 Mitre Gauge Fence Review and Comparison To Incra Flip Fence

 

[lshj]

I already had an Incra fence in a shopping basket when I saw the video linked below comparing it to a Hongdui fence. I have some Hongdui products which are amazingly well made, and would probably prefer their fence to Incra's.

If someone here happens to have the Hongdui HD-KS22 fence I'd greatly appreciate if you could either check if it fits the CSC SYS, or take measurements of the position of its mounting t-slot.

Hongdui HD-KS22 Mitre Gauge Fence Review and Comparison To Incra Flip Fence

The T slot is not a standard 3/4 slot. The bottom measures approximately 7/8' width and the top measures approximately 11/16 width.

Because the bottom slot is wider than 3/4, so any 3/4' wide sliding guide might fit in there but it's a very loose fit. If you tighten the clamp lever, it probably make the standard 3/4' guide fit a little better, but it might not clamp it tight. I have a standard 3/4' wide sliding bar. I tried it, the clamp lever won't tight it so even I tighten the clamp lever, I could still slide the sliding bar in the slot.

 

[lshj]

I have bought the festool table saw. Overall I am quite satisfied. My sliding table is flat and not tilted like other post, everything is good and cut exactly at 90 degree on both sides.

It cuts pretty good for such a small saw. The maximum height of the blade is 1 31/32, almost close to 2 inches. I have a 8/8 white oak measures just less than 2 inches thick. I tried to rip it using this small saw, it cut without much effort, thanks for the thinner blade. However, the cut surface of the 2 inch white oak is not as good or as smooth as the cut of my Sawstop contractor saw, I think probably due to lack of stability of such a small saw. For thinner wood, I have not noticed any major difference. The build quality is not as good as sawstop, but not too bad either. So for heavy work, this saw has no competition to standard 10 inch table saw like Sawstop, but it is very small and so easy to move around.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Hi all, thought I'd share a fence I bought to try from Temu for my SYS 50, I would have liked the Benchdogs one but at the price with shipping it's not worth it to me. It cost me around $25AUD landed with the flip stop.

It turns out the groove perfectly lines up with the groove on the rip fence, so as shown you can use the rip fence as a guide edge to run a router along to trim the base off the new fence. Worked out better than I could have hoped. Just need to trim 15mm off the end of the flip stop. The flip stop itself is really solid and tight, very well made. Now I know it works I'll buy a longer one as well.

Link to fence and stop:
https://www.temu.com/au/1pc-40-60-8...-woodworking-workbench-g-601099518508756.html

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4][attachimg=5][attachimg=6][attachimg=7]

 

[ryanjg117]

On the topic of cool fence accessories for the CSC SYS 50, TSO just released adapter brackets that allow mounting of the JessEm flex stock guides onto the OE Festool fence:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ides-on-the-new-festool-csc-sys-50-table-saw/

 

[JINRO]

As others have reported many time, I also found out the slanted angle issue of my sliding table. after few days of calibration and alignment, I found out the cause of it.  It turns out it's concaved groove at middle of the sliding table itself.

I'm not sure if how much error this can cause for some people, but looks like sliding table itself ISN'T slanted, rather it sits flush to the table but it's built so curves downward in middle. (I don't know what the purpose of this manufacturing plan is...)

So if you try to see alignment or calibrate with a ruler or square to see if it sits flush to the table by only making it sit 1/2 way or less to end of the sliding table, it will obviously give you an error of certain degrees.

I've attached pictures to explain what I mean.  Please see these referenced pictures and share your thoughts.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[woodferret]

"It's by design".  Typically a mfg bias so as not to have too many convex tables which are outright rejects (worse than concave).  "Normally, most people don't notice" as cross cuts for fitters are either loosey-goosey or span the width of the sliding table.

Quotes are gist of what they said to me.  Mine was throwing off small cross cuts a degree or two, which I did notice.  If it was consistent, it would have been recoverable, but it varied depending on length of piece so there was no way to compensate for it.
LOL.

edit: I guess technically, you can put a rigid carrier underneath the crosscut in question that spans the width of the table.  Also, I noticed that when you do utilize the clamp - either the wood piece will conform down to the table, or if you're using something harder, the table will 'flatten' upward.  Using that feature, you could clamp a beefy aluminum extrusion behind the miter guide or next to the stock to flatten the table.

 

[JINRO]

Mine was throwing off small cross cuts a degree or two, which I did notice.  If it was consistent, it would have been recoverable, but it varied depending on length of piece so there was no way to compensate for it.

I can clearly see it can be a problem if the cutting piece doesn't sit fully across the sliding table, tilting a bit, dipping down a bit on concaved area.  I thought about returning and reordering since it's only been few days since I received the saw... but returning the whole set including the table and batteries is not worth the hassle.  I also have the dimple blemish on the digital screen but I can live with it. . Overall, this is a great saw. I just tested 45 degree cuts to make a box and seems nearly perfect

[attachimg=1]

 

[Phil42]

Hello,

i waited for one year and finally decided to buy the Festool CSC SYS 50. I need a small precise table saw. At first i was really impressed with the overall design of the saw, the smooth sliding table and the quality of the cuts. And there are a lot of more great features.

Unfortunately my saw has the same problems as othere here have noted. The table is concave around 0,25mm and the table is also tilted. So far i fixed the tilting- it was an easy fix, but i can't fix the concave table.

For my next project i need to cut some 20mm wide strips from a narrow 60mm wide piece of wood. I did some test cuts with fence set to 20mm and noticed the cut angle of the wood is never exactly 90°. I can't get consistent 90° cuts.

There are two main problems. Please see the picture with an exxagerated sketch. First the sliding table needs to be a little higher than the main table, so the wood slides well above the main table. Second there is the concave sliding table. Now if you have a narrow piece of wood, like 60mm, the wood has no reference surface. It always wobbles on the high point of the sliding table and therefore it's impossible to have consistent 90° cuts. Additionaly the cut angle chances, because the wood strips gets even more narrow by each cut.

Am i expecting too much? What would you do to cut these type of narrow stripes with 90° cuts?

 

[woodferret]

Unless you want to return the saw, try cutting on the other side with the 20mm towards the slider.  Clamp a stop block to the slider and lock it.  Then rip (utilizing the short fence if needed, and maybe even in forward position for when it gets really narrow).  Adjust the fence for the next cut with the stock to meet the stop block.

edit: unfortunately, this technique doesn't expand to things that are wider than gap between the blade and slider.

edit2: for completeness/safety sake, I have to point out to put the stop block well ahead of the blade   Bonus points if you have a stop block that uses a bearing guide.

 

[GregInVa]

Came across this video from Festool Canada a couple of days ago. It shows what's under the sliding table and how the adjustment mechanism works. Might be helpful for some.

Festool Canada video - Dusty looks under the hood of the CSC-SYS 50

 

[Phil42]

Unless you want to return the saw, try cutting on the other side with the 20mm towards the slider.  Clamp a stop block to the slider and lock it.  Then rip (utilizing the short fence if needed, and maybe even in forward position for when it gets really narrow).  Adjust the fence for the next cut with the stock to meet the stop block.

edit: unfortunately, this technique doesn't expand to things that are wider than gap between the blade and slider.

edit2: for completeness/safety sake, I have to point out to put the stop block well ahead of the blade   Bonus points if you have a stop block that uses a bearing guide.

Thx for the input. I get the idea and i have seen it in YT videos. As you already pointed out this is restricted to the gap between blade and sliding table.

Another idea would be to fix a ~5mm board on top of the table to get a flat surface with a cutout for the blade. If the board is wider than the sliding table it needs a small rebate on the underside to compensate for the height of the sliding table.
I'm not very experienced with table saws yet- do you think this could work?

 

[woodferret]

I would not trap a board with the blade.  The Incra Mitre Express does something similar with a thin carrier sheet, but the drop-side has a miter lock too.  In scenarios where you need to trim more than the 'gap', I'd do a one sided carrier sheet/wagon clamped to the slider and then clamp the stock down.  This of course is limited to the short slider travel. 

Longer stock, you'll have to do two passes.  One to rough cut conventionally with the fence, leaving yourself a few mm.  It won't be 90.  Then come back and trim it to width.  Since the offcut is within the gap, you'll be fine.