Festool Domino miter joining question

[acd683]

Hi all,

Trying something new this weekend and don't want to risk messing up my stock. I am joining 3/4" stock at a 45 degree miter using the 5 X 19 X 30mm tenons. I have the DF 500. Will I be able to accomplish this without going through the stock? Any settings I should know about? I am having trouble finding info online. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Adam

 

[ChuckM]

Absolutely no problem as long as your mortises are milled close to the inside edges of the joint. How close? See the sample photo I took. The stock was 25mm thick (1" or so); so yours should be at least something like that. Place an actual domino on the side of the mitred edge at 15mm mark, and you can see how close you want the mortises milled.

Practice it on some  3/4" scraps to verify your machine is properly set.

 

[acd683]

Thanks for this Chuck. Will definitely do some testing first!

 

[PaulMarcel]

Assuming you are boring with the 15mm setting, the center of the mortise will be 16mm (the bit swings so 15 on the edges, 16 in the middle).

The cut edge of the 45º miter of a 3/4" board is 1.06" (27mm). 5mm thick Dominos means you'll want the center of the Domino at most 7.5mm from the inside edge of the joint. Remember that the height setting gauge is only accurate for the fence tipped down 90º. At 45º, the height gauge's "10mm" setting is really 13.5mm. That 3.5mm difference is regardless of the height setting (it has to do with where the hinge is located... 5mm in from the milled face). So you'd need a height setting of 4mm, which the fence doesn't do. You'll want a shim board taped to the fence face to compensate.

Sorry for all the crazy numbers  [blink]

 

[Birdhunter]

I tried with little success to do mitered joint using the 45 degree Domino fence setting. The mortise was often off just enough to throw off the joint.

I built a simple jig so I could use the 90 degree fence setting. Worked great.

 

[ChuckM]

Made a few mitre cuts in the shop and then used the DJ with the standard mitre setting & 5x30mm domino, and here are the results. Adam - Make sure the fence bottoms out when you set the fence to 45* (4th pic).

P.S. Not a promo, but all mitres were cut on the Kapex. Previously with my Dewalt, the success rate with dead-on mitres was unpredictable. 

 

[StevoWevo]

I’m pretty sure if set correctly the machine will do what you want. Here’s my first festool project where all bevels are cut with the track saw and joined with just dominoes and glue.

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[Michael Kellough]

[member=71948]StevoWevo[/member]  this looks interesting. I’d like to see more/better pictures if you have them.

 

[Rick Herrick]

[member=71948]StevoWevo[/member]  this looks interesting. I’d like to see more/better pictures if you have them.

Me too.  Steve, If you could make them a little bigger, that would be great.. [cool]

 

[StevoWevo]

I thought you guys would be chuckling behind your keyboards when I posted it let me see i

 

[StevoWevo]

That’s all I have at the moment. Wifey wanted shelves under the TV that “look like big chunks of wood “I’m up for anything that hides the dam wires. I made a cleat to hold it to the wall with some pieces of 1/2” all-thread.

 

[VirTERM]

I dont recall if i used 4mm or 5mm in this project

 

[JimD]

I put this in the jigs section a few months ago:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/small-jig-for-domino-miters/

If you cut the mortises this way I think it is easier to keep it in the place you want and the depth seems accurate.

 

[CeeJay]

I just did 9 shop drawers from 18mm ply stock (measured at 17.8mm) using 5mm dominos and mitres.

You absolutely can do this but the mortise needs to be as close to the inside edge as you can get - the lowest you can get the fence. Even then there isn’t much meat left at the back. I had glue leak through the back of a couple of them at glue up.

I used the 45 degree fence setting and it worked fine.

Not important for my shop drawers but for furniture I wouldn’t try this in anything less than 19mm.

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[ChuckM]

If I were building anything with 17.8mm material (ply or solid wood), and were concerned about any visible "blow through" or bleed through in a mitre joinery, I would reduce the cutting/plunge depth slightly by using a circular shim on the linear rail.

 

[CeeJay]

Thanks Chuck yes next time around I would do that too. Either shim the rail or the face plate and trim down the dominos.

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[ChuckM]

Thanks Chuck yes next time around I would do that too. Either shim the rail or the face plate and trim down the dominos.

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Among the three methods you mentioned, the last one would involve the most extra work if there was a large # of tenons to trim.

The second method (shim taped to the bit throat opening part)has not been used and tested by me, so I don't how good it's compared to the shim on the rail. Would or how the shim (and the self-adhesive tape) affect the precision of the mitres, for example? Of course, this matters only when critical mitre joinery work is involved.

 

[James2460]

I've got a miter for the first I'm doing where the timber is 60 x 80mm, and I've attached 2 images what I'm thinking, but I need some help.

 

[ChuckM]

If you're asking about which configuration would be preferred, definitely the bottom given the recommended spacing between dominoes. You could use 10mm dominoes, too.

 

[James2460]

Awesome, Thanks Chuck, much appreciated.
I'll go ahead and do that.