Festool drill or Milwaukee?

Cheese said:
Are you serious about being more powerfull than the the T 18 & the PDC?

I've got a bunch of Milwaukee M18 drills that I always considered to be significantly more powerfull than the Festool offerings, but I've always enjoyed, and used the right angle attachment on the Festools.

It feels just about as potent as my M18 Fuel did, I don't really remember the +/-10% power difference to be honest. I haven't used the PDC myself, and only toyed around with a T18 at a local dealer, so I can only really tell you what's on the spec sheet (I usually defer to the European sites because they have actual marketing/testing standards).

https://www.metabo.com/com/en/machines/cordless-devices/cordless-drills-screwdrivers/bs-18-ltx-bl-impuls-602241890-cordless-drill-screwdriver.html
https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=564605
https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=500781
www.milwaukeetool.eu/powertools/cordless/m18-cpd/

The brushed Metabo is actually another 20% more peak output than the brushless, but brushless is all the rage nowadays.
 
[member=38144]sae[/member]
Interesting, the last Metabo I owned was over 40 years ago...great grinder, it's just that someone decided they needed it more than me.  [mad] [mad] [mad]

The brushless stuff is my bag for cordless tools, because of the increase in battery life. If I need more power in a corded tool...I just grab a larger drill.
 
Even other leading tool brands are recognising Metabo as a class leader - evident by some of the rebadging in play today!

Availability in your local market aside - it's a seriously good option!
 
When it comes to drills, Festool differentiates itself in efficiency (swappable chucks) and accuracy offered as an option in the package (Centrotec). But it drills holes about the same as any other drill.  On a bigger scale, the analogy which I think appropriate is a comparison between basic cars and luxury vehicles. You can get a Chevy, or you can get an Acura, Audi, BMW, Lexus, etc. For the same size, you may easily pay 50% to 100% more than for a Chevy. The luxury vehicle will not get you from point A to point B any faster. It will not haul more passengers or luggage (maybe even less). It will not be more fuel efficient. Strictly financially, a purchase of a luxury vehicle is not necessarily a smart decision. The difference is in the level of customer service, reliability, creature comfort, sophistication, driving pleasure, handling, etc. - maybe even prestige. It is hard to rationally justify a purchase of a luxury vehicle. You do it because you want it, not because you need it, not because you do not have cheaper options. The same applies to Festool drills. They are nice toys for grown-ups and very nicely designed tools. They do their job very well. But there is no logical reason why one should pay twice more for Festool than for Bosch or Milwaukee or Makita or Dewalt. Festool drills are not more powerful, and I do not think they are built tougher.  Festool does not have a longer warranty than Dewalt, and its total customer satisfaction policy is not longer than that of other manufacturers.  They may have a nicer telephone service, but they do not have local service centers. Festool gets a higher profit margin on its tools because it designed the tools better, or at least did it in a more attractive way. People like how Festool reps handle their calls and e-mails. Apple gets for a higher profit margin because its gadgets are better designed, not because they work better (technically). People buy iPhones not because other brands cannot place a call - because it looks cool and has a better interface and is more responsive.  They just like it better.

So, the decision is entirely up to how you feel. I do not think there is a reasonable advice or rhyme or reason. You cannot logically justify a Festool drill. You might be able to do it with other tools, but not with the drill. You can accomplish your task with Ryobi or Chicago Electric from Harbor Freight almost just the same, except for high precision tasks.

I never thought I would buy a Festool drill, but I got a CXS, love it, and now I am considering the idea of buying a T18... It is just that luxury feeling that makes a difference... The light weight, the balance, the feeling how it fits in hand...
 
DanielOB said:
...
Recommendations:
1. for small holes, up to 12 mm dia, get with battery Festool or Fein. Look for set drill + oscilating tool (can get good discount sometimes). If you intend to go with other Festools on battery, go with Festool (this cost more JUST INITIALLY)
2. for larger holes that can have bigger tolerances (or deviations in size) get Bosch, Bulldog is the best if you are a strong maaaan.

1. .... or the Mafell a10m (i am considering this tool but i would also like to have the Festool CSX)
2. ... or Makita? I have the DHR264Z and i was satisfied with it (i bought this already before i changed to Festool, but the cordless system fits into the garden tools i need)

 
Coliban said:
DanielOB said:
...
Recommendations:
1. for small holes, up to 12 mm dia, get with battery Festool or Fein. Look for set drill + oscilating tool (can get good discount sometimes). If you intend to go with other Festools on battery, go with Festool (this cost more JUST INITIALLY)
2. for larger holes that can have bigger tolerances (or deviations in size) get Bosch, Bulldog is the best if you are a strong maaaan.

1. .... or the Mafell a10m (i am considering this tool but i would also like to have the Festool CSX)
2. ... or Makita? I have the DHR264Z and i was satisfied with it (i bought this already before i changed to Festool, but the cordless system fits into the garden tools i need)

I don't think the 10.8v Mafell (rebadged Metabo) is available in the US unfortunately. I've searched for an available 110v charger for a while now, and have come up empty.

I went to Bosch for 10.8v/12v class tools myself, the PS22 (GSR 10.8v EC HX in Europe) is really nice to use and I use it for all my cabinet drilling/driving and pocket hole work. Bosch has been slow with coming out w/ brushless tools, but if they spend the effort to make it brushless, they do it right. Net result is a smaller and lighter drill than the CXS, but without interchangeable chucks. They are very compact though, and the T-handle design means you can jam it in many places you would only be able to accomplish w/ the right angle adapter on a C-handled drill. The clutch, while of standard mechanical design, is near silent, which is great for cabinets that have a ton of surface area to resonate.

Makita 18v drills work well, they don't stand out like the Mafell/Metabo/Festool drills, but compare well to the standard Milwaukee/DeWalt/Bosch stuff offered here. Most their cordless is made in China, though it seems they manage their factory reasonably well (as do the other brands). They do offer the largest mix of specialty "secondary tools" to drive the battery platform further, like cordless planers, nailers, vacuums, caulk guns, leaf blowers, string trimmers, etc.

Makita 12v isn't nearly as exciting, they seem just very middle of the road with standard tool offerings and mediocre size/power ratio.
 
AIPDX said:
... You can get a Chevy, or you can get an Acura, Audi, BMW, Lexus, etc. For the same size, you may easily pay 50% to 100% more than for a Chevy. The luxury vehicle will not get you from point A to point B any faster. It will not haul more passengers or luggage (maybe even less). It will not be more fuel efficient. Strictly financially, a purchase of a luxury vehicle is not necessarily a smart decision. The difference is in the level of customer service, reliability, creature comfort, sophistication, driving pleasure, handling, etc. - maybe even prestige. It is hard to rationally justify a purchase of a luxury vehicle. You do it because you want it, not because you need it, not because you do not have cheaper options.

My first car was a VW beatle (the old one, not this new ....), it was about 10 years old, had 6 Volt and was build in the year 1968. Me and my friend were able to fix, repair and change literally every part of this car, besides the fact, that it was really robust and was running. My next car was a mercedes 240D (W123), i paid much more for this car (it had already more than 200.000 km) than for other brand, mainly japanese, but i drove it for 8 years and when i sold it, in the sum, i paid only a very small amount of "Deutschmarks" and less than others , who drove cheaper brands ( i actually "earned" some money with it, because others made some minor accidents when they drove into my car and i´ve got nearly the buying price from their insurance back) . Until this time, i could not imagine why many taxi driver, most of them, used Mercedes because this brand was about nearly double the price than other, foreign brands. But it seems to turn out that investing in quality is, in the beginning, more expensive than with "normal" brands, but at the end of the day you pay the same, or even less amount of money for much more comfort, better handling, more safety, higher quality, higher accuracy, less consumption and less trouble with repairs, maintenance, failures and so on.

[quote author=AIPDX]
The same applies to Festool drills. They are nice toys for grown-ups and very nicely designed tools. They do their job very well. But there is no logical reason why one should pay twice more for Festool than for Bosch or Milwaukee or Makita or Dewalt. Festool drills are not more powerful, and I do not think they are built tougher.  Festool does not have a longer warranty than Dewalt, and its total customer satisfaction policy is not longer than that of other manufacturers.  They may have a nicer telephone service, but they do not have local service centers. Festool gets a higher profit margin on its tools because it designed the tools better, or at least did it in a more attractive way. [/quote]

It can´t second that, with the same arguments, i described earlier. If you have a good repair service for Milwaukee, Makita and Dewalt and if the failure rates are equal to Festool, then i could agree, but over here, especially when i see how many used and old Festool tools are sold for example in ebay from craftsmen when the tools are at the end of their lifecycle and are still running, then i think, at least here in germany, it is a less expensive matter to invest in a quality brand. And there must be a reason why the handcraft sector is using high quality products which a high price.

[quote author=AIPDX]People like how Festool reps handle their calls and e-mails. Apple gets for a higher profit margin because its gadgets are better designed, not because they work better (technically). People buy iPhones not because other brands cannot place a call - because it looks cool and has a better interface and is more responsive.  They just like it better.[/quote]

Again, i can´t really agree with this statement, an example: for the last ten or fifteen years i bought Apple again (after my apple II clone in the eighties, forgive me, Steve), i´ve just graded my old, 9 year old Apple iMac up with more Memory and a new SSD and gave it as a gift to our 13 year old niche, who was extremely happy, mainly, because of the, still modern, design (one would not accept an nine year old computer in their living room, but an nine year old apple still is ageless and looks "modern"). Besides of the design, the technique, the quality of that apple (and the performance) is still, after eight years, very high, i´ve paid more, but that difference in costs are paid back several times.

I have not enough money that i could afford to buy cheap tools. Investing in high quality, high pricey products is for me a question of saving, over long time, more money.
 
sae said:
...
I don't think the 10.8v Mafell (rebadged Metabo) is available in the US unfortunately. I've searched for an available 110v charger for a while now, and have come up empty.

Hm, thank you, it seems to be the "PowerMaxx BS Quick Basic".

 
sae said:
...
I think he's in the US, which makes getting the 10.8v Metabo stuff quite difficult.
...

I got the Mafell A10M, which is effectively the Metabo.
I assume I have the only one on the Australian continent, and 10 Euro cheaper than a CSX.  [big grin]

It is great, but really, in the end, it only drills and screws... You would think it made my coffee from my smile.


However after I slammed my nail into a fence post a few years ago, I can see the benefit of a FT sabre guard style drill.
But 10 Euros is like 1/2 a slab in $AU.

For a general purpose drill it is good. But I am not sure exactly what the OP needs, as it sounds like he is mostly sorted out.
treesner said:
...
Is it worth getting a festool drill or should I save some money here and put that into a festool sander/domino
thanks!
-chris

I do not think a drill make sense... It basically drills.
And there are lots of good sanders. I have not used the Mirka yet, but the uva115e is good.

However the Domino is somewhat unique.
(I cannot argue that there is a better domino machine, as there is only 1)
So if you do joints, then a domino seems useful, but one could go for biscuits or dowels and then the options open up again.

 
treesner said:
Is it worth getting a festool drill or should I save some money here and put that into a festool sander/domino
thanks!
-chris

Over the years I've used various cordless drill/drivers, but have never owned a Festool. For the money, all the Dewalt cordless I have owned over the years give the most power and handle the best. I currently have 2; a standard drill/driver and an impact driver; both 20V Max batteries. They last a long time and have more power than I need. Plus they generally can be bought on sale for even less. as a set with batteries. The impact driver was never something I though I'd use or needed, but it does work a lot better driving screws in hardwood and for removing screws.
 
Holmz said:
DB10 said:
I would say, for your type of work, i'd go Milwaukee Metabo, or Bosch 12v. Milwaukee have the best range in 12v.
...

Have you used the Metabo?

The 12V (10.8?) is pretty sweet, it weighs SFA with the small battery and has as much torque as the old Bosch with the batteries that are hard to get. It is also small.
Not the 12v Metabo line only the 18v Metabo's. I've always liked Metabo but I'm too heavily invested in the 12v Milwaukee range.
With the 12v tools I started off with Bosch when they came out but switched to Milwaukee as you Just can't beat their range of tools. The little drills go everywhere with me and I like that Milwaukee have some really useful tools like the inspection camera and the sawszall.
 
Hi!

I personally think that the first and maybe most important question you should ask yourself is, if you're "just" going to buy a cordless drill or if you might want to add other tools later on. If it's the latter, you might want to take a very close look at all the different line-up's and volt classes from typical manufacturers and decide which one suits your needs best and buy their cordless drill.

I don't own any Milwaukee tools but from what I hear they make very decent tools and have the most tools readily available especially in their 10.8/12V line-up.

My personal view is that if you want to be truly mobile, exceeding 3 types of batteries is pretty much one big pain in the a**. This adds up pretty fast, 3 chargers, at least 2 batteries/style - even more so if you, like me, own more than one charger per style, for example. I keep 1 charger per style for mobile applications and have another one per style installed in my workshop - if I was a professional/making my living of it, I would have a third one per style in my car/trailer. This would total in 9 chargers, 3 per style.

And JFYI - I'm currently exactly at that point, 3 styles. Festool 10.8, Bosch 10.8, Snap-On 7,2V. It's not that bad yet because I use the Snap-On in the workshop only - So I can see an 18V or maybe 36V system in my future.

So what I want to say is, make a wise decision towards which system/volt class you want to go with and take it from there. Nothing worse than ending up with 3 tools and 3 different battery styles. Completely destroys the idea and mobility of cordless tools.

Also try and get an idea on how the different manufacturers treat their different line-up's: Are there enough accessories readily available? Is there a current flow of new tools, what has been introduced to the market in the last 6 or 12 months?

I'd say Bosch, for example is notoriously slow on the accessories part - people are waiting for more than a year now for Bosch to get out different types of saw blades for their 10.8V circular saw - still only one type available. Now you can shop for the missing ones with other brands but what if we're talking about accessories that can't be obtained from another brand/manufacturer.

If you however "just" want a cordless drill, go with whatever suits your needs and wallet.

Having used the Festool CXS for 2 days in a row now I'm going to say that I love it's ergonomics - although I previously never liked the look of the c-type handles, now I get it. It's precise, powerful and I like the feeling of the materials used. So, I'd say go with the Festool - and from what I have heard there's a 10.8V Jigsaw in the making - maybe that's interesting to know, too. When deciding between "just a drill" vs. "system". Also definitely a big + for Festool is the angle attachment which is still a little special and works far better than I initially thought! Although, other manufacturers are beginning to offer angle attachments, too.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 
Coliban said:
It can´t second that, with the same arguments, i described earlier. If you have a good repair service for Milwaukee, Makita and Dewalt and if the failure rates are equal to Festool, then i could agree, but over here, especially when i see how many used and old Festool tools are sold for example in ebay from craftsmen when the tools are at the end of their lifecycle and are still running, then i think, at least here in germany, it is a less expensive matter to invest in a quality brand. And there must be a reason why the handcraft sector is using high quality products which a high price.

Thank you for this comment. It is a very good thought. Unfortunately, we are not privy to statistics of failure rates across different brands. Perhaps some people on the FOG have access to such information, but most people don't. But it is a good question to ask yourself - what is a quality brand? As I think about it, the first level is a quality of manufacturing, i.e., production which uses modern statistical process control and which has all standard ISO quality systems certifications and follows them. This means that a tool will work out of the box and is unlikely to fail quickly. Most manufacturers are on this level as it is expected these days. The second level is good quality materials which guarantee that the tool will not wear out and fail in a year or two. The next level is good design and attention to detail. The next level after that is system integration.

With all due respect to Festool, I cannot say I am hugely impressed with its manufacturing quality. From about 15 +/- 5 Festool tools which I bought in the past 3 years, I had to replace two because of the manufacturing defects. A pin on the LR 32 system developed huge friction and got stuck, so that the rocker arm could not lift it to slide to the next hole, just after 2 hours of use. The base of a planer was more curved and out of alignment than on lowest grade Chinese tools sold at 10% of Festool cost. I swapped both tools at the dealer, and it was fine. I am not saying this changed my impression from the brand. I still prefer it to anything else because of the neat design and dust collection. One just has to be realistic, it is not a bulletproof brand with ideal quality. Things happen, also with Festool.

To be fair, from Bosch, Makita, and Dewalt tools which I own, I also had an issue - a slight misalignment in a Dewalt tile saw which I discovered after my first project with the tool. Dewalt has 90 day money back guarantee (compare it with 30 days offered by Festool) and three years warranty. Since I needed the tool for the next project, I decided to get it fixed. I loaded it into the trunk of my car, drove to the local service center, and got it fixed within an hour. Since that time, it works fine. I did not have any failures or issues with any other tools - although I admit they they are not nearly as nicely designed and as accurate as Festool.

I am fully with you, as long as I can afford buying high end tools, I will continue doing it even if I am not a woodworking professional. I do not because I enjoy working with tools with good ergonomics and with good dust collection, tools which help me to do a better job.

Here in the US, one finds many more used Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, Makita, etc., tools sold on the second hand market than Festool. Many of these tools are sold locally via craigslist, to avoid the complexity of shipment and to avoid commissions from e-bay. Many are just kept in the family for decades and eventually thrown away or sold for pennies on garage sales. The reason for this is that for one Festool tool sold on any given day, there may easily be 10 or 100 of similar in function tools from every other brand being purchased from major retailers. Our building and remodeling contractors rarely use Festool, as far as I can judge. I have not yet seen a single contractor who had it, although my experience is limited. My observation is that they prefer less expensive tools which they can throw into the back their truck, let them lie in dirt, and throw away and replace when the time comes without regret. Apparently, those tools work fine and last.

It is funny, but SAE system apparently plays a joke on our construction and manufacturing. There are only 3 countries in the world who do not officially use metric, and I am ashamed to even name those countries together with the US. Anyhow, our contractors typically use 1/8" tolerances just because counting fractions and reading them off the ruler gets harder after the eights. In Europe, one would not use 3 mm tolerance. It is natural to target 1 mm because 1 cm is too big, and the next level down is 1 mm... Which is obviously is 3 times more precise. My wife ordered cabinets from a US supplier, we had an issue with drawer alignment, the rep told me that they manufacture their cabinets with tolerances of 1/8". I was like - REALLY? That's the best you can? In cabinetmaking??

This is why there are so many different opinions, even on this forum, and elsewhere. While many other brands may not be as refined, they are also solid performers.

You pointed out that Festool tools can very often be found in good condition after years of use. What I noticed, is that after I paid so much money for each Festool tool, I handle it with great care. Not only I vacuum them after use and put them back into their boxes, but I also use "lower grade" tools when I expect a significant abuse. When I needed to plane my subfloors which could have nails, I did not use my Festool planer - I used a Makita planer which I also have. It may not be as precise, but I do not need that precision when removing high spots on the subfloor, and I do not care too much how much abuse it will get. I bought it for about $100 or so, its replacement knives are $12 at the nearest Home Depot, if knives get damaged by nails that I inadvertently hit, I will swap them for a little over ten bucks. If it dies on me, I will get rid of it without much regret. When I drill a hole which requires a lot of torque (which I consider kind of abusing for a tool), I would use one of my Dewalt drills rather than Festool because they did not fail on such tasks before, and if they eventually fail, it will not cost me a  fortune to replace. Given their age and replacement cost, I might not even bother with an attempt to repair.  In contrast, when I do non-tool-abusive work which requires precision and finess, I use Festool because those tools are such a joy to use. Of course, with such care and reduced abuse, my Festool tool collection will likely be like new even after 5 years :)

I am not arguing with what you said, just wanted to add some thoughts to it which your reply triggered.

Someone very correctly wrote above in this tread: if you are building furniture, you will enjoy Festool drills to their full extent. If you are framing houses, you might not need it. You might rather prefer something heavy, with lots of metal in it, that is truly hard to break, and something that is relatively cheap to replace. You do not need a Ferrari when the task at hand requires a pickup truck.
 
  A lot of praise for various makes! where would Hilti cordless drills rank amongst these?
 
sae said:
Cheese said:
Are you serious about being more powerfull than the the T 18 & the PDC?

I've got a bunch of Milwaukee M18 drills that I always considered to be significantly more powerfull than the Festool offerings, but I've always enjoyed, and used the right angle attachment on the Festools.

It feels just about as potent as my M18 Fuel did, I don't really remember the +/-10% power difference to be honest. I haven't used the PDC myself, and only toyed around with a T18 at a local dealer, so I can only really tell you what's on the spec sheet (I usually defer to the European sites because they have actual marketing/testing standards).

https://www.metabo.com/com/en/machines/cordless-devices/cordless-drills-screwdrivers/bs-18-ltx-bl-impuls-602241890-cordless-drill-screwdriver.html
https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=564605
https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=500781
www.milwaukeetool.eu/powertools/cordless/m18-cpd/

The brushed Metabo is actually another 20% more peak output than the brushless, but brushless is all the rage nowadays.

If you didn't use it,especially Festool PDC,DO NOT say its powerful than this,or more power than that....
Before make that statement you HAVE to use BOTH!
Good day!
 
griffs said:
  A lot of praise for various makes! where would Hilti cordless drills rank amongst these?

You cannot name them all... To me (and it is a very subjective judgement), Hilti and Fein are in the next tier after brands sold at Home Depot and Lowes. Festol is in the next tier up, Mafell and Mirca might be yet another tier up, as far as I can judge after reading about them but not without owning any Mafell or Mirca tools.

Going down, Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Black and Decker (sorry, the list is long, I can't remember every brand on the shelves of home improvement stores).... are brands which attempt to bring good manufacturing quality along with value engineering. Their goal is to bring to the market an acceptable level of performance at lowest possible cost. It is not their objective to make everything in the tool perfect. It is enough it it is fit for the task.  I think they achieved their goal because they dominate the market, at least in the number of units sold.  I doubt that they are that much different from each other, although some of these brands may have tools which are better than matching tools from other brands, in specific segments.

I would go as far as stating that power tools, in many ways, became a commodity. You can buy five different drills from different brands within a certain price range, and they will perform similarly. They may even be built in the same fab in China and share some of the same components. Motors, batteries, electronic components, plastics, are all outsourced.  At this level, it all boils down to personal preference and tastes, all the way down to the color of the tool or compatibility of batteries or chargers with other tools which you have at home.

Some brands from this list have a long history, including the history of making top notch, greatly engineered tools. This may have changed over the years, as they were looking for ways to reduce their costs and keep their market share. I think this is where many recollections of great tools from a particular manufacturer come from. But think about it, what was the price of those tools at the time (especially if you count in the inflation), and how much to they cost now?

I think this tier is where the good value for the money ends.

P.S. I am only trying to be unbiased. Milwaukee makes great tools for the money. One cannot go wrong with Milwaukee. However, If I had to buy a drill tomorrow, it would be a Festool drill. It is not because I can come up with data-driven arguments that I need a Festool drill. I can't. Festool drill - any drill - is just a better engineered drill which, however, spins just the same and drills round holes like any other drill. The ability to quickly swap super expensive Centrotec drills does not readily translate into monetary value, at least for me.  It is just more fun to use, and this fun costs money. I use tools for hobby or home projects, and I want every moment when I use them to be as enjoying as possible.  I like the brand and, what's the heck, thankfully, i can afford paying a higher cost for a tool which I am eager to own. I suspect, most FOG members are "in the same boat", in the sense that they buy higher end tools to make their tasks at hand more enjoyable. Many FOG members could complete their projects with any tool set, even if they would not be happy :)
 
BeardMan said:
If you didn't use it,especially Festool PDC,DO NOT say its powerful than this,or more power than that....
Before make that statement you HAVE to use BOTH!
Good day!

From what I've gathered, the testing procedures are highly regulated by the EU, the ISO/IEC standards are to be followed by all manufacturers selling in Europe. Each drill must list a soft and hard peak torque output, vibration in various materials, and a few other metrics that's obtained through a standardized testing procedure. There is no sliding scale that puts Festool at a disadvantage, and there's no reason to believe the tests are somehow falsified.

I'm not sure why it's hard for you to believe that there are drills more powerful than the PDC.

Sidenote: if you ever want to convert DeWalt's bullsh** UWO rating to actual torque values, look it up on the DeWalt EU sites.
 
BeardMan said:
...
If you didn't use it,especially Festool PDC,DO NOT say its powerful than this,or more power than that....
Before make that statement you HAVE to use BOTH!
Good day!

That is what specs are for.
They say the PDC is in a class of its own, but which class is it?

You may HAVE to use it, in order to say that the extra torque is needed or not.
Or that the power is needed or not needed.
 
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