Festool Grinder - Question

Joined
Mar 5, 2007
Messages
274
Hi,

Quick question on the new Festool grinder.  The concrete slab for my new workshop was poured without a slope in the front of the two garage doors.  Not the end of the world, but I am wondering if this grinder could grind down like a 1/2 inch slope to my now paved driveway.  When the driveway was paved, the asphalt was kept deliberately lower than the concrete slab.

Thank you.
 
I don't have a Festool grinder but any grinder with a reasonable bog standard wheel will do that with a bit of time and effort. You'll be surprised how much, and how easily, you can remove and reshape concrete with a single wheel. The difference though will be the much better ergonomics and handling of the Festool.
 
Brian Livingstone said:
...but I am wondering if this grinder could grind down like a 1/2 inch slope to my now paved driveway. 

Absolutely, just fit a diamond wheel to the AGC. I assume you're talking about putting a 45º chamfer on the slab?

The diamond wheel fits with or without the guard although the guard is pretty useless, it just prevents you from bumping into adjacent surfaces.

However, make sure the diamond wheel is TIGHT on the AGC. Because the AGC has an effective brake and comes to a halt within 1-2 seconds, the diamond wheel will want to un-screw itself when stopped abruptly. It's happened to me using just Scotch-Brite discs and a backer pad. Most grinders take 5 or more seconds to stop so that's not usually an issue.

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Agreed ... though you really want dust extraction when grinding concrete.

Unfortunately the Protool/Festool DCG-AG 125 does not fit (not without a shim I had made for myself).

I would check for a Makita grinder with a DE shroud and consider dedicating it for that purpose. For one-off, just getting the diamond disc should do.
 

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A hand-held grinder will never give you an even slope across its whole length. I'd hire a jackhammer, dig it up, and re-pour it.
 
At least you have something fixable.  When I built my house I had the bright idea to put the garage drains UNDERNEATH the cars, so the snow would melt and run under the car to the drain.  Unfortunately my concrete finisher did not pick up that the the concrete should slope toward the drain.  So I have useless drains that do not drain and water that just puddles everywhere on the floor. 

 
woodbutcherbower said:
A hand-held grinder will never give you an even slope across its whole length. I'd hire a jackhammer, dig it up, and re-pour it.

I'd actually disagree here, I've never had trouble with keeping straight lines or levelness once you get used to the motion and technique. Granted I generally use my Makita PC5000 grinder, which they call a concrete planer, but the disc eats concrete like a wood planer eats wood and is just a glorified grinder.

Using a slow waving motion while grinding the same as you would use a sander to avoid heating up a section of wood yields a really good and even result I find.
 
mino said:
Agreed ... though you really want dust extraction when grinding concrete.

+1, it's absolutely mind blowing how must dust is generated while grinding, and without a shroud/extraction it billows EVERYWHERE!

My old SR5E connected to my Makita captures all the dust.
 
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