Festool HK55 as Track Saw?

friedchicken

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I finally got a set of guide rails, and (somehow) that included the FSK420 for the HK saws.

Now I'm faced with the option of either the TS60 or the HK55, but the TS60 costs an alot whereas the HK55 does not.
Can the HK55 work as a good track saw?
 
I think it depends upon how important dust collection is to you. With the open blade guard of the HK it just won't capture the amount of dust that a TS 60 will. I use my HKC 55 with a dust bag outdoors and it works well...but it's certainly not up to my TSC 55K for ultimate dust capture.
 
If you're primarily going to be breaking down sheet materials you'll want the TS 60. The HK will work with plywood and long rails but it's pretty awkward. TS 60 works fine with the FSK rails too.
 
For what it's worth, I love my TS 55 track saw. And having bought the cordless version from FS Recon, I can say that I love that saw even more. Smooth, accurate cuts, Basically splinter-free cuts in plywood. The saws mate perfectly to the track. Dust collection is excellent.

I started with the Makita track saw, and having been a big fan of Makita back in the late 80s, I was very disappointed in how the saw's mechanism for mating to the track wore out over time and became unreliable.
 
Back when I was thinking about getting a track saw, the guys were telling me to get the TS60. However, at the time I didn't want to spend the money. The 60 has all those features: anti-kickback, 5mm more cut depth, FSK compatibility, more power, etc. I ended up going with the 55 FEQ that I use to cut slabs, sheets and other materials. I have not felt that I "should have" gotten the 60 in the 18 months since I got the 55.

The HK is like a regular circ saw. The blade is exposed but I've seen it available as low as $400. If you won't mind the lack of dust collection as the TS saws, it will work. It just won't plunge in the same manner, but that feature may not be pertinent to your work.
 
I just ordered the TS60 because of the sale at Bits & Bits.
I believe I would still have a 30day return window, but the discounted price, lack of sales tax, and politics possibly raising festool prices pushed me to get it. That and the fact that they seem to be selling out fast pushed me to order quickly.

It sounds like the HK55 would work as a viable tracksaw, and would probably be more useful for my needs. Would the TS60 work as a regular circular saw? Is it overkill? Will it get offended and break on me?
 
I just ordered the TS60 because of the sale at Bits & Bits.
I believe I would still have a 30day return window, but the discounted price, lack of sales tax, and politics possibly raising festool prices pushed me to get it. That and the fact that they seem to be selling out fast pushed me to order quickly.

It sounds like the HK55 would work as a viable tracksaw, and would probably be more useful for my needs. Would the TS60 work as a regular circular saw? Is it overkill? Will it get offended and break on me?
Consider the work you need to do. When I'm working with lumber or slabs, I'll use a regular non-Festool circ saw to do a lot of the rough cutting. The Skil 12v circ is surprisingly decent for cuts. And the Flex rear-handled is a beast.
 
I'd say no - plunge saws make terrible circular saws, in my opinion, because you can't lock the blade depth like you can on a regular circ saw.
This is a valid point I have to take into consideration.

Consider the work you need to do. When I'm working with lumber or slabs, I'll use a regular non-Festool circ saw to do a lot of the rough cutting. The Skil 12v circ is surprisingly decent for cuts. And the Flex rear-handled is a beast.
I have a Makita circular saw. It's excellent but my objective is to have as few tools as possible.

If it comes down to it I'll either sell or return the TS60, but I'm going to see how I feel about it first.
 
Consider the work you need to do. When I'm working with lumber or slabs, I'll use a regular non-Festool circ saw to do a lot of the rough cutting. The Skil 12v circ is surprisingly decent for cuts. And the Flex rear-handled is a beast.

But that's the whole point of the HKC; you can take it outdoors or on a job site and make tons of perfect cuts using the rails without having to drag around your KAPEX.
 
If I were to suggest only one, I'd say go for the HK over TS. It can be used as standalone circular saw, basic mitre saw replacement, and basic plunge saw replacement.
I say basic for these as it will never truly replace a mite saw or plunge saw - but as a jack of all trades and with the correct blades for the materials you are cutting it will give excellent cuts.
In melamine, I used to do 2mm pre-score cuts then a full depth cut (using a TS plunge saw blade) - perfect results.
It was my go to saw when traveling light.
 
My track saw is an HK, and I’ve never used a TS. Based on watching the various videos of TS saws in use, the HK’s plunge action is a bit clumsy. You press the saw down rather than tilting forward, and it’s easy to not push it far enough to lock, so your cut depth is off. I only use the plunging when it’s necessary.
Dust collection isn’t as good, but it does ok.
As a general purpose saw it’s lovely, the blade guard control is a lot easier than reaching over the saw. I don’t use mine without a track very often. I have two FSK tracks and several TS tracks.
 
Horses for courses. They are two very different saws with very different uses cases.

You can use the HK as a track saw, cut sheet goods withit and even plunge to pre-defined depths (which - and I kid you not - is an operation that requires four buttons to be pushed simultaneously at the start of the cut and you have to push the handle backwards while going forwards), but it is nowhere near as efficient, useful and clean as using a dedicated tracksaw for that purpose. Apart from everything else it just makes a tremendous mess all around you even with a vac attached.

On the other hand: using a TS 60 to cut boards, beams and rafters is just as much of a nightmare. The plunge mechanism cannot be fixed in place and thus you've go an additional pivot point you have to deal with while balancing a FSK rail on a narrow piece of wood. It's doable but a super sketchy operation.

In short: if you mainly deal with sheet goods get yourself the track saw, if you mainly deal with framing, roofing or decking get a HK series. Both saws can stand in for the other if you're in a pinch as there is a certain overlap in capability, but neither does it particularly well in practise.
 
On the other hand: using a TS 60 to cut boards, beams and rafters is just as much of a nightmare. The plunge mechanism cannot be fixed in place and thus you've go an additional pivot point you have to deal with while balancing a FSK rail on a narrow piece of wood. It's doable but a super sketchy operation.
Clamp at the front of an FSK rail when using a TS 60 for a cross cut. Makes all the difference.
 
But that's the whole point of the HKC; you can take it outdoors or on a job site and make tons of perfect cuts using the rails without having to drag around your KAPEX.
Agreed. I meant the commentary to be less about the KAPEX but the other brand saws to be a cheaper and complimentary alternative since he just bought the TS60.
 
It sounds like the HK is the better saw for me than the TS60, however in the immediate short term I need to dimension some boards for which the TS60 will be perfect.
Had this deal not fallen on my lap I would seek out an HK.

Once I'm done with this immediate project, I can look if I want to sell the TS60 to get an HK, or keep it. Or get both (not likely, I want less tools not more).
 
TS 60 is a castrated saw; it lacks a riving knife. The HK series saws still have that edge of the blade cover that functions as a riving knife.
 
TS 60 is a castrated saw; it lacks a riving knife. The HK series saws still have that edge of the blade cover that functions as a riving knife.
Near weekly use on mine since 2023, been working like a champ. Never an issue with not having a riving knife.
 
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