Festool LR-32 and 5mm screws for european hinges

bholmsten

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Jan 20, 2012
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I have the Festool LR-32 system and recently used it for installing drawer slides.  I used the 5 mm eroscrews.  I loved it and bought a lot of screws.  Now I want to make a cabinet and use the euro hinges.  However, I noticed the hinge cups are 35mm but the screws that hold the cup in are not 5mm they are standard wood screws.  The wonderful staff at Woodcraft are ordering some Blum hinges that have 5 mm plastic wedges that then you screw a wood screw into.  So this allows you to use the 5 mm drilling system but still not use the 5mm euro screws.  Does anyone know of a hinge maker that makes euro hinges that are attached with 5mm euroscrews?
 
I just got back from the hardware store after dealing with a similar issue - most hinge plates that attach to the carcass won't accept 5mm screws.  A few do, mainly face-frame hinge plates (doesn't make sense to me, but whatever).

I checked the different kinds of hinges I've bought as I've experimented with cabinet doors, and none of them will take a 5mm euro screw.  Most take normal wood screws, some have an 8mm "dowel" that expands when you flip part of it.  The screw holes are also not 32mm center-to-center.  Grrr.

So, I'm afraid I have no answer for you, but can sympathize.

    Scott
 
I use Hettich hinges. They are designed to have a (I think) 10mm hole to attach the hinge to the door, into which a plastic plug is inserted. I discard this and drill a 5mm hole and use euro screws, no problem at all.
 
If I understand your question correctly, you might be over thinking this.  The system allows you to align the hole for the cup properly, then you use regular screws on the cup side of the hinge.  The carcase side has the screw holes spaced at 32 on center.  

I hope this is clear enough to understand.  When I have some time later I will post a link to some hinges and data sheets that show what I am saying.  

Daniel
 
I probably am overthinking as I am learning the new system.  I understand the whole centering the cup and the 32 mm spacing on the carcass.  I thought the holes on the euro hinges for the screws would also be 32 mm apart with the cup centered in between.  However, even if you marked the holes for the screws and then used the 5mm bit and plunged it you should be able to use the 5mm euroscrews.  I like the screws because I like the idea of all the same and I believe the threads are very deep and hold well in different materials?  I am like the comercial where they say can you design the house around the faucet.  I am going in the shop trying to figure out how to use the LR-32 and all my new euro-screws.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Ken,

The 5mm screws you linked are for the carcass plate. The press in Blum cups require 8mm holes, the screw in require a 2.5mm hole.

I use the CMT hinge jig. It drills all three holes at once.

The other option are the cam/toggle lock cups, no screws required.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Ken,

The 5mm screws you linked are for the carcass plate. The press in Blum cups require 8mm holes, the screw in require a 2.5mm hole.

I use the CMT hinge jig. It drills all three holes at once.

The other option are the cam/toggle lock cups, no screws required.

Tom

Correct Tom.  That was the information I thought he was looking for in his first post, the screws that go into the 5mm holes on the carcase.  The second post seemed like he was actually asking about the hinge cup mounting on the doors, which is why I posted the info on the Blum jig.  I believe the CMT is the same or similar enough to do the job, if this is finally what he's looking for.
 
Thanks again for the info.  Yes it is easy enough to just put the two wood screws that come with the hinges to hold the 35 mm cup in the door.  I just find it annoying that you have a 32 mm system that uses 5 mm screws.  They make 5mm shelf supports.  Drawer slides will accommodate 5 mm screws.  Why wouldn't someone make a hing cup that can be attached with 5mm screws.  Then to find out the pastic inserts are 8mm.  Do engineers actually do woodworking?  Why would you want to keep changing bits etc. I guess it helps sell more tools. 
 
Sorry, but I'm still confused with what you'd like to accomplish.  I think the screws on the door side and cabinet side are designed the way they are for a good reason, not just to make you buy a whole bunch of different screws.  [2cents]
 
The LR 32 system would not help with cup screw location without some modification.

The screws are not on the cup centerline. The on center spacing is not 32mm, I believe it is 28mm.  Also there are Grass and Salice euro hinges that have a different on center and cup centerline screw hole offset.

I have 2 different heads for my CMT boring jig, one for Blum which I use most often and one for the odd time I have to use Grass.

I just checked, the on center of the screws is 45mm.

Tom
 
As I mentioned before I had a lot of 5MM euro screws and wanted to use them.  I had hinge plates that were not 5mm.  I drilled the LR32 mm holes on the carcase and the 35 mm cup hole on the doors. I then marked the doors and drilled 5MM holes to hold the door cup hinge.  I alrerady had the 1400 set up with the 5mm bit, it's a brad point so its easy to line up with the make etc.  I followed the wise canadians advice and irt was easy to drill out the plates etc I already had.  Then attached with the 5mm euroscrews.
I guess my point was if everything was 5mm it would be so much easier.  I know the 8mm is for the dowels etc.  5mm screws have greater surface area and more aggressive thread for much better holding power than a 2.5 mm tapered screw.
Before you call me crazy, isnt this what Festool is all about?  I cord works on multiple machine, table heights are the same etc etc.
I guess I am asking the question, isnt good engineering and consistency the halmark of of Festool.  Somebody should make hinges that are 5mm throughout if the whole principle of the 32mm sytem uses 5mm.
I will add some pics.
 
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