Festool LR32 System and Bosch 1617 Plunge router

Dick Mahany

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2016
Messages
555
Has anyone mounted a Bosch 1617 plunge router to the LR32 guide rail mounting plate?  At this time, I'm not in a position to acquire any of the Festool router and I really like my Bosch 1617.
 
The Bosch OFA FSN has an adapter for using it on a bosch/Mafell track.
The OFA FSN is available through dictum.de .
The OFA FSN also takes FT and Elu and DW routers, and the rail is a holey 32 mm job.
 
Dick Mahany said:
Has anyone mounted a Bosch 1617 plunge router to the LR32 guide rail mounting plate?  At this time, I'm not in a position to acquire any of the Festool router and I really like my Bosch 1617.

Any plunge router will work. You just have to drill the proper holes.
 
I am working on my adaptation right now.  Initially, I thought I could just drill the plate, but the problem is that the plunge base is too large and you need to cut off at least one screw (the thing with the black knob on it).  Frankly, I wasn't sure if I could make it work so I didn't want to destroy the plate!  At least if I don't destroy it, it might have value as a second hand item.  :)

So, I found a post from a guy who used this plate with a domino and the LR32 rail.  I "stole" his design and simplified it.  While building, I realized that the router base needed to be propped up so that it's "level" once the whole thing is assembled.  I'm thinking that I'll remove the existing black base, then make a new one that is 3/4" high.  I'm thinking that it'll be 1/2" wood, with a  1/4" layer of HDMW at the bottom (ok...not sure if that's a good thing or not, but I think I want to try and see if that'll help it glide along with the rest of the mechanism).

I used scrap MDF so that's why there's a "hole" in the center of the plate.  The knobs are just trying to fasten the mdf to the plate and provide an attachment point for the aluminum piece that supports the rods that attach to the plunge base.    If I can't securely attach the aluminum to the MDF, I may remake the thing in plywood.  Note that the mdf thing does come off without disassembling.  It's tight...but it does come off.

The only "problem" that I'm concerned about is that the plate seems to need weight where the plate hole is.  Makes sense since the router was supposed to go there.  I'm going to test it with the new route base plate and if it still needs weight on the other side, I'll  find some sort of weight to make it work.  My favorite weight is rolls of pennies since it's relatively cheap and if they don't work I can spend them or deposit them.  :)

One other note...I am using a Makita router rail attachment and making it work with my Bosch plunge base using another idea I found here.  The Makita attachment worked great with a Makita router to route straight dados.  But I hated the Makita router that I bought because it had the router rail attachment.  So it'll be sold and I'll just keep the rail attachment and make it work with my Bosch.  I believe that my modifications will work with my Bosch Colt plunge base too. 

My next project after this is to make my Bosch Colt with plunge base into a "quasi domino machine" and have it ride along the back of the rail as a guide and then set up "stops" using custom made stops that will use the LR32 rail to set them up at the precise width of mortise that I need.  We'll see how well that goes...

 

Attachments

  • IMG_0514.JPG
    IMG_0514.JPG
    107.8 KB · Views: 9,894
I've successfully squeezed a 1617 on to the LR32 plate without drilling.  It's been a while and I no longer own a 1617 but I think I had to rotate it so the flat edge of the plunge base is against one of the knobs, at roughly 45d angle (vs. perpendicular or parallel).

 
I swear I had tried to rotate that plunge base to fit between the screws/knobs.  I had a new inspiration....a custom subbase that fits on the screws/knobs.  I had considered hanging the router off of the splinter guard side, but not using a subbase to fasten it more securely to the router.    Hmmmm
 
I found a photo. :)

ffa27059d29c9de714d1857e3212416b.jpg


aosty said:
I've successfully squeezed a 1617 on to the LR32 plate without drilling.  It's been a while and I no longer own a 1617 but I think I had to rotate it so the flat edge of the plunge base is against one of the knobs, at roughly 45d angle (vs. perpendicular or parallel).
 
aosty said:
I found a photo. :)

ffa27059d29c9de714d1857e3212416b.jpg


aosty said:
I've successfully squeezed a 1617 on to the LR32 plate without drilling.  It's been a while and I no longer own a 1617 but I think I had to rotate it so the flat edge of the plunge base is against one of the knobs, at roughly 45d angle (vs. perpendicular or parallel).
What that square lying next to your guide rail? Looks interesting!
 
[member=27474]dutchie[/member]

That looks like a Woodpecker 18 inch precision triangle. I believe they made a run in that Incra gold color a while back.
 
aosty said:
I found a photo. :)

ffa27059d29c9de714d1857e3212416b.jpg


aosty said:
I've successfully squeezed a 1617 on to the LR32 plate without drilling.  It's been a while and I no longer own a 1617 but I think I had to rotate it so the flat edge of the plunge base is against one of the knobs, at roughly 45d angle (vs. perpendicular or parallel).

I spot Peltor Optime III ear caps  [tongue]

Do you have the Bosch router also centered on the plate? So all the stuff supplied with the LR32 system to measure out offsets line up with the actual cuts?
 
Coen said:
I spot Peltor Optime III ear caps  [tongue]
[tongue]

Do you have the Bosch router also centered on the plate? So all the stuff supplied with the LR32 system to measure out offsets line up with the actual cuts?

Yep, it was properly centered in the plate using the centering cone device.

 
Do you have the Bosch router also centered on the plate? So all the stuff supplied with the LR32 system to measure out offsets line up with the actual cuts?

Yep, it was properly centered in the plate using the centering cone device.
[/quote]

I just received my LR32.  My Bosch 1617 plunge base is off center when I try to mount it.  I removed the plastic sub base and it is a little better, not still not centered.  It looks like I have to mill away a bit of the base to fit in between the hold down screw studs on the LR32.  Did you have to make such mods?
 
I wasn't able to make it work with the hole in the center without modifications. 

I am building a new subplate that attaches to the metal plate.  I was nearly finished, but I messed it up so I'll have to try again.  :(  I really want the router bit aligned with the little arrow on the metal plate.  I know it doesn't matter...but I figured that everything aligned would make more sense.  :)
 
Dick Mahany said:
I just received my LR32.  My Bosch 1617 plunge base is off center when I try to mount it.  I removed the plastic sub base and it is a little better, not still not centered.  It looks like I have to mill away a bit of the base to fit in between the hold down screw studs on the LR32.  Did you have to make such mods?

I did not have to modify mine... how much do you need to mill?  Perhaps the Bosch base had different revisions?
Sorry, my photo isn't better... I would take another but, as I said, I no longer have the 1617.
 
aosty said:
I did not have to modify mine... how much do you need to mill?  Perhaps the Bosch base had different revisions?
Sorry, my photo isn't better... I would take another but, as I said, I no longer have the 1617.

It looks like if I removed one of the lower horizontal guide rod supports on the very outside edge of the casting that it would be enough.  I don't think it would compromise the ability to securely tighten the edge guide attachments too much, so I'm tempted to do it.  Worst case is that I would have to buy a replacement plunge base if needed and just dedicate the modified base to the LR32.  Thanks again for your pic.
 
I think I figured out how it was done!  I had taken off the 1/4" black base on the bottom of the plunge base to attach my prototype.  When I tried it on the Festool plate, it fit much better.  Before, the Bosch base interfered with the toggle thing.  But I guess the 1/4" made a diff and now I can get it on.  I just had to remove the two screws that hold the rods on the base.

It's still not fully centered in the festool base hole,  but I think my 20 mm bit will still work...  :)  THANKS guys!
 
Back
Top