Festool/ Mafell Rails

[ScotF]

Any of the Bosch branded blades ending in DP are thicker than normal blades - actually very similar to the Carvex or Trion labeled blades. These will aid in cutting square and reducing deflection. The Cunex blade is nice, but really only shines in curved cuts. Personally I prefer the thicker blades for straight cuts that need to be square. The Mafell employs more technology than just the thicker Cunex blade - the entire clamping mechanism is different and holds the blade more securely with a wedge action. There is also no deflection from any rear wheel or roller guide, which can also introduce deflection. Since there are no guides, there is less heat and blades last longer.

It is an entirely different level saw. The Bosch is nice too - BTW, mine is not sourced from Mafell parts - it is made in Switzerland. FWIW - Festool makes nice saws too - I preferred the Trion over the Carvex when I owned one of each, but I thought the Bosch and Mafell cut better and provided more value. However, I am tempted to get the cordless Carvex because of the advantages it offers over corded saws and I think it is the best 18v on the market right now. So, I might add another FT at some point and grow my jigsaw collection again.

 

[Cheese]

Any of the Bosch branded blades ending in DP are thicker than normal blades - actually very similar to the Carvex or Trion labeled blades. These will aid in cutting square and reducing deflection. The Cunex blade is nice, but really only shines in curved cuts. Personally I prefer the thicker blades for straight cuts that need to be square. The Mafell employs more technology than just the thicker Cunex blade - the entire clamping mechanism is different and holds the blade more securely with a wedge action. There is also no deflection from any rear wheel or roller guide, which can also introduce deflection. Since there are no guides, there is less heat and blades last longer.

I agree 100%...I only use the Cunex blade for cutting very sharp radiuses when the jigsaw is tethered to a a central pivot point. For cutting larger free form radius cuts, I’ll use Trion blades in the Mafell and they will usually yield cuts that are within 1-2 degrees of perpendicularity. The Trion blades are stiff enough to resist sideways deflection because of the guidance system used in the P1 cc.

The Cunex blade is not fun to use because it is double the thickness of a standard jig saw blade, which makes for a very slow and tedious cutting process.

However if the P1 cc jigsaw was attached to a guide rail, the Cunex would again be my blade of choice.

 

[Steven Owen]

Any of the Bosch branded blades ending in DP are thicker than normal blades - actually very similar to the Carvex or Trion labeled blades. These will aid in cutting square and reducing deflection. The Cunex blade is nice, but really only shines in curved cuts. Personally I prefer the thicker blades for straight cuts that need to be square. The Mafell employs more technology than just the thicker Cunex blade - the entire clamping mechanism is different and holds the blade more securely with a wedge action. There is also no deflection from any rear wheel or roller guide, which can also introduce deflection. Since there are no guides, there is less heat and blades last longer.

I agree 100%...I only use the Cunex blade for cutting very sharp radiuses when the jigsaw is tethered to a a central pivot point. For cutting larger free form radius cuts, I’ll use Trion blades in the Mafell and they will usually yield cuts that are within 1-2 degrees of perpendicularity. The Trion blades are stiff enough to resist sideways deflection because of the guidance system used in the P1 cc.

The Cunex blade is not fun to use because it is double the thickness of a standard jig saw blade, which makes for a very slow and tedious cutting process.

However if the P1 cc jigsaw was attached to a guide rail, the Cunex would again be my blade of choice.

The Bosch 572 is usually off by about 3 to 5 degrees depending on the blade. I end-up using a rasp and an angle cube to fix perfect the edge if necessary.  It’s also why I never use jig saws for bevel cuts.  Even with a very rigid blade there’s still some deflection.

 

[Cheese]

Perhaps I should have been more clear in my last post. When using the P1 cc, and Trion blades, the perpendicularity of the cut is absolute when sawing straight cuts and when sawing large radius free-form radius cuts. Absolute, as measured by a Starrett square and the abundance of wood fuzz that’s left from the blade of the jig saw. 

If the Trion blade is pushed hard in a tight radius cut, then the blade will bend and you’ll have a 1-2 degree deviation in perpendicularity on the P1 cc, or 3-4 times that amount when using a Trion or Carvex jig saw.

A Cunex blade will yield absolute perpendicularity whether sawing in a straight line or in a radius/circle. However it is slow going because of the size of the kerf.

 

[Holmz]

While you have accused me of being a red fan-boi , it really depends.
The main thing that excite me here are build threads, and it could be anything...
The things that get me wound-up are anything factually in error.

We have some mongrel woods...

I cut a few things with even the pixie dust encrusted p1cc, which this week is also rainbow emblazoned in support of our same sex marriage vote in Australia...

And an old aboriginal elder sold me a some unicorn horn dust which looked somewhat like the pedicure sander dust without the CT26 attached...

Even with all those 3 magics of pixie dust, rainbows and unicorns... on a mongrel wood can produce a wonky cut.
The power of the force is only so strong.

The only truthful thing we can say is that the blades are the stiffest, the guide mechanism idiot proof, and the power pretty high.
And that on standard pine it cuts like a champ.

 

[yetihunter]

While you have accused me of being a red fan-boi , it really depends.
The main thing that excite me here are build threads, and it could be anything...
The things that get me wound-up are anything factually in error.

We have some mongrel woods...

I cut a few things with even the pixie dust encrusted p1cc, which this week is also rainbow emblazoned in support of our same sex marriage vote in Australia...

And an old aboriginal elder sold me a some unicorn horn dust which looked somewhat like the pedicure sander dust without the CT26 attached...

Even with all those 3 magics of pixie dust, rainbows and unicorns... on a mongrel wood can produce a wonky cut.
The power of the force is only so strong.

The only truthful thing we can say is that the blades are the stiffest, the guide mechanism idiot proof, and the power pretty high.
And that on standard pine it cuts like a champ.

This reminds me of the time that I used a die grinder to remove the old man ridges from my toenails.

 

[McNally Family]

While you have accused me of being a red fan-boi , it really depends.
The main thing that excite me here are build threads, and it could be anything...
The things that get me wound-up are anything factually in error.

We have some mongrel woods...

I cut a few things with even the pixie dust encrusted p1cc, which this week is also rainbow emblazoned in support of our same sex marriage vote in Australia...

And an old aboriginal elder sold me a some unicorn horn dust which looked somewhat like the pedicure sander dust without the CT26 attached...

Even with all those 3 magics of pixie dust, rainbows and unicorns... on a mongrel wood can produce a wonky cut.
The power of the force is only so strong.

The only truthful thing we can say is that the blades are the stiffest, the guide mechanism idiot proof, and the power pretty high.
And that on standard pine it cuts like a champ.

This reminds me of the time that I used a die grinder to remove the old man ridges from my toenails.

Just curious, were they vertical or horizontal ridges?  One represents old age and the other is a symptom of a more serious illness.

 

[Holmz]

While you have accused me of being a red fan-boi , it really depends.
The main thing that excite me here are build threads, and it could be anything...
The things that get me wound-up are anything factually in error.

We have some mongrel woods...

I cut a few things with even the pixie dust encrusted p1cc, which this week is also rainbow emblazoned in support of our same sex marriage vote in Australia...

And an old aboriginal elder sold me a some unicorn horn dust which looked somewhat like the pedicure sander dust without the CT26 attached...

Even with all those 3 magics of pixie dust, rainbows and unicorns... on a mongrel wood can produce a wonky cut.
The power of the force is only so strong.

The only truthful thing we can say is that the blades are the stiffest, the guide mechanism idiot proof, and the power pretty high.
And that on standard pine it cuts like a champ.

This reminds me of the time that I used a die grinder to remove the old man ridges from my toenails.

Just curious, were they vertical or horizontal ridges?  One represents old age and the other is a symptom of a more serious illness.

The the thread has literally "gone off the rails".

But please tell... which ridge orientation represents which conditions, and which illnesses are represented?

 

[Steven Owen]

I would think the the way the strip interfaces to the rail itself would have been easy enough to address in the original design. Its an extrusion right. So you just design the extrusion with a slot for the strip and BANG.....no more adhesive for strip to rail interface. Sliding a composite or rubber into a the slot of an aluminum extrusion has been around for a pretty long time now. So unless Mafill has some sort of use patent floating around, that one would seem to have been a matter of just thinking about it long enough to come to that conclusion.

Think floor sweeps/weather strips on the bottom of storm doors. They all slide into an extruded slot. However, if Mafell has a patent on the rail, maybe they've included the slot as one of the claims on the patent.

I wish Bosch would sell it’s version of the Mafell Track Saw in Canada/US.  I’m guess there’s some kind of licensing issue preventing Bosch from releasing their track saw in North America.

 

[Holmz]

I would think the the way the strip interfaces to the rail itself would have been easy enough to address in the original design. Its an extrusion right. So you just design the extrusion with a slot for the strip and BANG.....no more adhesive for strip to rail interface. Sliding a composite or rubber into a the slot of an aluminum extrusion has been around for a pretty long time now. So unless Mafill has some sort of use patent floating around, that one would seem to have been a matter of just thinking about it long enough to come to that conclusion.

Think floor sweeps/weather strips on the bottom of storm doors. They all slide into an extruded slot. However, if Mafell has a patent on the rail, maybe they've included the slot as one of the claims on the patent.

I wish Bosch would sell it’s version of the Mafell Track Saw in Canada/US.  I’m guess there’s some kind of licensing issue preventing Bosch from releasing their track saw in North America.

Well buddy up to someone in the UK or Germany or buy it off of eBay?
Your main question should be 110v or 230v.

Then you either need a step up transformer, or get a 220 plug if you have 220 in the shop.

That also opens up the 230v Mirka... which the model with the 5" and 6" pad is (I think) the 5650. I got mine straight from 'Hel'sinki, which all known for their good Finnish sanders.

 

[amt]

You can probably buy from axminster and ship to USA for very good price.  Just order the 110v and change the plug yourself.

 

[yetihunter]

Bosch rails are plentiful and cheap on the UK amazon website.

I never asked for a shipping quote, but Axminster does have the 2 1600 rails + connector + bag package for
a couple of hundos. 
http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-fsn-guide-rail-accessory-kit-503645

As for the Herculean pedi party: said incident only occurred in my imagination.   

 

[yetihunter]

I would think the the way the strip interfaces to the rail itself would have been easy enough to address in the original design. Its an extrusion right. So you just design the extrusion with a slot for the strip and BANG.....no more adhesive for strip to rail interface. Sliding a composite or rubber into a the slot of an aluminum extrusion has been around for a pretty long time now. So unless Mafill has some sort of use patent floating around, that one would seem to have been a matter of just thinking about it long enough to come to that conclusion.

Think floor sweeps/weather strips on the bottom of storm doors. They all slide into an extruded slot. However, if Mafell has a patent on the rail, maybe they've included the slot as one of the claims on the patent.

I wish Bosch would sell it’s version of the Mafell Track Saw in Canada/US.  I’m guess there’s some kind of licensing issue preventing Bosch from releasing their track saw in North America.

There's a lot of things Bosch's power tool division isn't selling in North America. 
As in, either just about everything innovative or everything we'd consider buying from them.   

 

[McNally Family]

While you have accused me of being a red fan-boi , it really depends.
The main thing that excite me here are build threads, and it could be anything...
The things that get me wound-up are anything factually in error.

We have some mongrel woods...

I cut a few things with even the pixie dust encrusted p1cc, which this week is also rainbow emblazoned in support of our same sex marriage vote in Australia...

And an old aboriginal elder sold me a some unicorn horn dust which looked somewhat like the pedicure sander dust without the CT26 attached...

Even with all those 3 magics of pixie dust, rainbows and unicorns... on a mongrel wood can produce a wonky cut.
The power of the force is only so strong.

The only truthful thing we can say is that the blades are the stiffest, the guide mechanism idiot proof, and the power pretty high.
And that on standard pine it cuts like a champ.

This reminds me of the time that I used a die grinder to remove the old man ridges from my toenails.

Just curious, were they vertical or horizontal ridges?  One represents old age and the other is a symptom of a more serious illness.

The the thread has literally "gone off the rails".

But please tell... which ridge orientation represents which conditions, and which illnesses are represented?

Link to the Mayo Clinic:
https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/adult-health/expert-answers/nails/faq-20058541

Horizontal ridges
Deep horizontal ridges, called Beau’s lines, are often symptoms of a serious condition. They may actually stop nail growth until the underlying condition is treated. Acute kidney disease may also be present if Beau’s lines appear. In addition, when Beau’s lines develop on all 20 nails, it could be a symptom of:

mumps
thyroid disease
diabetes
syphilis
Chemotherapy may also cause Beau’s lines.

 

[aloysius]

Thought there'd be an STI in there somewhere.  Not that I'm speaking from experience or anything....

 

[yetihunter]

According to the internet, everything means that you have thyroid disease.  Well, except for
that massive goiter I had when I was ten or eleven.  Go figure?  [big grin]