Festool OF1400 on rails - I don't see the point

[friedchicken]

"Why do it simple if it can be done complicated" - All Germans making any decision ever

Here's what I'm talking about:

https://yewtu.be/watch?v=pvK7czh9MDw

Why not simply run the router against a piece of wood or even just against the track?

 

[tjbnwi]

The advantage to being retained by the rail is the router cannot pull away from the guide. With a board it is possible for the router to lose contact with the guide edge.

Either process the guide should be clamped to keep it from moving.

Edge guided and locked to the rail.



Tom

 

[friedchicken]

I guess; but even in the example you gave, if the router walks away it would move outward and he can simply do another pass.

Also wondering why he didn't use a bearing bit and forego the fence entirely

 

[tjbnwi]

I guess; but even in the example you gave, if the router walks away it would move outward and he can simply do another pass.

Also wondering why he didn't use a bearing bit and forego the fence entirely

It you need a groove 1/4” wide and the router moves out you no longer have a consistent 1/4” groove.

I have never seen a lock miter bits manufactured with a bearing. I also wanted the run in/run out stability the fence gave me. Lock miter bits are a one attempt only cutter.

One other thing, processes change over time, I now own multiple shapers, one is set up with a lock miter head. Unless it needs to be sharpened the head does not get removed from the shaper. You may find in time a situation where locking the router to the rail is the best way to go.

In the case pictured, I needed to inlay guide channels into an existing floor. I choose to use the 700 because the footprint allows the router to get closer to the jambs. Using the 700 I had to make a “guide” for the rail. The last thing I wanted was risking the grooves for the guides having and over route at the edges. The rail is attached to the floor using two sided tape.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

This is exactly why I bought my OF1400 and the attachments. I wanted to flute some trim and didn't want to worry about non straight routing.

Peter

 

[Coen]

https://yewtu.be/watch?v=pvK7czh9MDw

Why can't you link to Youtube like a normal person?

Why not simply run the router against a piece of wood or even just against the track?

There is nothing that prevents you from doing that.

But I wouldn't because:
1)If you rotate the router around the vertical axis... it will change the offset from the piece of wood and... the same as in 2) will happen;
2)If you loose contact with the piece of wood; your groove will no longer be a straight line
3)Where do you find a straight piece of wood? By first cutting it from a sheet using a TS on a rail? If you have the rail anyway; why bother?

 

[luvmytoolz]

I always thought the fact you could use the rail with the routers was a terrific feature and a great marketing point.

There's been many times I've done sliding dovetails and grooves for shelving, etc, that would have been a much more complicated process without using the rails.

 

[Coen]

Yeah. TS 55, HK 85, PS 300, OF 1010 & OF 1400 (with LR32 set) (just to mention a few) all work with the same rails. It's awesome. Some individual tools might be outclassed by some competitors but getting three rail systems isn't worth it.

 

[Hipplewm]

"Why do it simple if it can be done complicated" - All Germans making any decision ever

Here's what I'm talking about:

https://yewtu.be/watch?v=pvK7czh9MDw

Why not simply run the router against a piece of wood or even just against the track?

For one, you have to use the back of the rail as the front has the splinter guard
running against the rail can still allow the router to twist or swerve and open up the cut
The rail can repeat much easier at multiple depths it needed
rail has LR32 holes and can't plunge to make the holes
Rail can have stop if you aren't going completely acress the board. You can plunge and go each direction to make a slot and have precisely measure stop and start points before you even turn on the router

 

[friedchicken]

Why can't you link to Youtube like a normal person?

I don't even know how to respond to this. Are you the normal police?

 

[friedchicken]

This is exactly why I bought my OF1400 and the attachments. I wanted to flute some trim and didn't want to worry about non straight routing.

Peter

I also see the router as a precision tool and the OF1400 sits above everything else on the market - is why I got one. My 2nd festool tool after the DTS (well, technically 3rd, I also got the hose).

I just wonder why go through the trouble of setting up a track like that; when the real world comes knocking I'll take a known straight board and ride it up against that. The alignment marks on the router base should make the process relatively trivial. It's my understanding you do not want to go against that cut out flat section of the base.

 

[peter halle]

The router runs partially on and off of the track if I understand your last part of your comment. The there is a little support that is lowered onto the workpiece to make up the height difference the track makes. People have been riding saws and routers next to pieces of wood for eons. Personally I prefer knowing that I would have to be a major league screwup to mess up a route or cut when using the rail. To each their own.

Peter

 

[luvmytoolz]

I just wonder why go through the trouble of setting up a track like that; when the real world comes knocking I'll take a known straight board and ride it up against that. The alignment marks on the router base should make the process relatively trivial. It's my understanding you do not want to go against that cut out flat section of the base.

Because aside from the speed and ease of setup, a track stops any adverse movement when changing position, extending your reach, etc, and makes sneaking up precisely on a measurement a trivial matter with the adjuster.

 

[friedchicken]

The router runs partially on and off of the track if I understand your last part of your comment. The there is a little support that is lowered onto the workpiece to make up the height difference the track makes. People have been riding saws and routers next to pieces of wood for eons. Personally I prefer knowing that I would have to be a major league screwup to mess up a route or cut when using the rail. To each their own.

Peter

The OF1400 I got included those parts for the track; there is indeed a little height guy you screw in with a knob to make up the difference from the track.

I guess what I'm wondering is: why not simply but the router against a piece of known flat wood or otherwise, and simply use that. You've answered that question: people have been doing it for eons, and if you want to make the tradeoff between convenience and some added protection, there's no reason not to...

unless there's something specific to the OF1400 that it'll get angry or something

 

[waho6o9]

I can do without the support foot on the 1400. The MicroFence interface set up works well for me.

 

[ReneS]

The OF1400 I got included those parts for the track; there is indeed a little height guy you screw in with a knob to make up the difference from the track.

I guess what I'm wondering is: why not simply but the router against a piece of known flat wood or otherwise, and simply use that. You've answered that question: people have been doing it for eons, and if you want to make the tradeoff between convenience and some added protection, there's no reason not to...

unless there's something specific to the OF1400 that it'll get angry or something

Like the others said, it's for ensuring the router doesn't move off course.

If you have never had that issue, that's great. But those of us who have like the security of being locked in to the track.

 

[luvmytoolz]

When I'm jointing timber with my large spiral cutter, I do use a straight edge as a guide, because any adverse movement doesn't impact as the cut is on the outside edge.

If the cuts not on the outside then you need some method to stop adverse movement. Simple as that.

Also keep in mind, a slot cut is both a conventional and climb cut, so any grain or density differences or knots WILL affect the pull of the router to a degree in either direction.

Using a track negates these issues. Especially so when using larger cutters.

 

[Cheese]

Here's another MicroFence set-up. Try doing this with some crooked 2x material.

A 1010 router with a 45º chamfer bit mounted on a Festool rail with a MicroFence adjuster. You can tweak the cutter offset of this set-up in .001" increments if you need to. Actually, theoretically in .0005" increments.

Every routed panel is square and perpendicular and when you start to fold it up it yields a perfectly square shower niche.

 

[tjbnwi]

Setting the track is no different to set a board. One advantage to the track adapter is if your off from your marks slightly you simple use the micro adjust to get you where you need to be. If you’re off a lot loosen the guide rods, shift the router, lock guide rods, micro adjust as needed.

I do not feel final adjustments are as easy with a board.

Tom

 

[bobtskutter]

When I'm jointing timber with my large spiral cutter, I do use a straight edge as a guide, because any adverse movement doesn't impact as the cut is on the outside edge.

Please can you explain what this means, I'm confused.

Thanks
Bob