Festool Seeking Member Feedback on Tools

Christian O. said:
What I'd like to get out of this post in addition to all the feedback is a list with questions you have about the HL850 planer and its use.

What are your top 5 questions on the HL850 you would ask if you had an HL850 expert to talk to?

Okay, that's simple:

1.  What is it supposed to be used for?

1(a).  Why is it a better choice than a different tool (for example, compared to the TS55 for trimming a door)

2.  What else are owners actually using it for?

2(a).  Why is it a better choice than a different tool (for example, compared to a rasp for shaping a curve)

3.  Can it trim end grain, or the edge of a sheet of plywood?

For what it's worth, I'm not employed professionally/full time in a trade or craft that uses Festool tools.  (I make furniture for my home...which I consider to be a part-time job in which I'm the boss, employee and client...and able to fully satisfy none of them.)

Regards,

John
 
John Stevens said:
For what it's worth, I'm not employed professionally/full time in a trade or craft that uses Festool tools.  (I make furniture for my home...which I consider to be a part-time job in which I'm the boss, employee and client...and able to fully satisfy none of them.)

Regards,

John

I thought Pam was the client.  ;D
 
  My question is not really on topic, But, why did Festools USA decide on the HL 850 instead of the EHL 65 for the US market? The 65 seems to be the size planer Americans are used to, I think it would easily out sell the 850. Maybe Festool didn't want to offer the same tool as everyone else?
 
I've been thinking about this for awhile.  John Stevens' first and second questions (and their "a" versions) are the two key questions that I came up with, but John stated them better.

These questions apply to ANY tool that Festool makes.  While some tools like the Festool jigsaw are more obvious, I look at many Festool tools and accessories and think, "What the heck is that thing?!?" or "Why is that better?"  If I keep digging and asking questions, I can usually answer the questions.  But I have to dig.

The problem for Festool is that most people won't dig for the answers.  That has to be more explicit.

One point about John's questions - note that they are expressed as "should" not "could".  Generally speaking, marketing literature by tool companies of all stripes almost always explains all the wonderful things for which you "could" use your tool.  ("It slices!  It dices!  Blah, blah, blah!")  The message turns into noise and the valuable nuggets disappear. 

For example, while you "can" use the HL850 for planing boards flat, it probably is best used for taking thin shavings off the ends of boards and doors.  While it "can" be used for jointing boards, it is best used for jointing only small boards.

An almost perfect example of this is the MFS system.  It's now on my "to-buy" list.  But it got on that list only AFTER members of this board explained how they used it.  That was NOT obvious from the literature.

Bottom line - Always explain the the tool and what it's best used for.  Sometimes that's a tough challenge, but it's critical (IMO).

Regards,

Dan.
 
On the plainer:

It would be nice if the Frount was a little longer the 3" it is not really enought to stablise the board or maybe a bolt on extenstion. 

Plug it cord!

The mounting base is not long enought also to get it in and out is a pain and you loose the thumb screw since it is not connected. 

Other than that I think it is a pretty good tool. 
 
My questions would be along the same lines as John's.  First off, why do I need a portable planer?  The next question would be why do I need the Festool portable planer?

I have a Makita planer I bought maybe 15 years ago that I've used about 3 times and a PC planer I bought about 10 years ago that I have only plugged it in to make sure it worked.  I have no doubt that the Festool is the better planer, but first I would have to be convinced that owning one would either save me time, make things easier or allow me to do something that I can't do now (like creating special surfaces using the optional cutter heads).

Tom.
 
HL850 Expert:

1.  Could you demonstrate and explain the recommended use for the base attachment.  What max size boards ought I expect to be able to joint with device?

2.  Could you demonstrate use of auxiliary blade knives and show example of completed work using this technique?

3.  When planing a rebate what is to keep the spinning knife cylinder from marring adjacent side if guard is in up and locked position?  Please demonstrate.

4.  How effective is the dust collection with this tool (percentage).  Is it feasible to operate vacuum without dust bag to save on bags?  Does using the vacuum attached to the planer inhibit range of motion?

Need to get those lauded Festool craftsman on You Tube building projects start to finish with pure Festool.  They can even speak German, we're all visual people here, right.
Brent
 
The 850 is in a class by itself, head and shoulders above the competition.  Beautiful balance.  If they had an add on for lipping function it would be a revolutionary tool.
B
 
Eli said:
I'm so with you. I wish they made an impact driver. I've got a decking job end of next month and it's either Makita or Bosch for that one.

Eli,

I did a 1200 square foot 2 story deck on a lake house a couple years ago. Used a DeWalt 18v impact. Made all the difference. I use my impact way more than my drills. I've tore the head off of a 5"  3/8 shank bolt with the thing! The latest Makita 18V Lithium I was noticing would be what I'd get. They have a light weight one and they also have a right angle impact, which would be very useful in tight fittings:http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=BTL061. I'd look for a kit, or get both. I was swapping out the batteries constantly while doing the deck. Really got things moving, cause the batteries charged in only 15 minutes each (except waiting for cool down before charging on hot days).

Rod
 
rodwolfy said:
Eli,

I did a 1200 square foot 2 story deck on a lake house a couple years ago. Used a DeWalt 18v impact. Made all the difference. I use my impact way more than my drills. I've tore the head off of a 5"  3/8 shank bolt with the thing! The latest Makita 18V Lithium I was noticing would be what I'd get. They have a light weight one and they also have a right angle impact, which would be very useful in tight fittings:http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=BTL061. I'd look for a kit, or get both. I was swapping out the batteries constantly while doing the deck. Really got things moving, cause the batteries charged in only 15 minutes each (except waiting for cool down before charging on hot days).

Rod

Rod,

Thanks for posting that link to Makita's right angle impact. I never knew they had one of them. I'm definitely going to be getting one of them in the very near future. I already have the newer Makita 18v LXT drill, and was planning on getting the matching impact to go with it. I might just get the angled one now though as I already have an older 14.4 impact from Makita.

I really wish Festool would reconsider their position on impacts though. I posted something about this in the Contact Festool section here a while back. Christian said something to the affect of an impact is not viewed as a necessity by Festool. That baffles me because all you have to do is go over to JLC and read what the contractors are using. ALL of them have one on their trucks and would never be without one again either. Adding an impact to my arsenal made as much of an impact (no pun intended) as adding the TS55 did. Its not a question of whether or not its needed because a standard cordless drill will do the same job for the most part. However, the impact is soooo much easier on the operator, faster, lighter, and smaller (easier to fit inside tight spots). I really like the light that is on my impact too. I thought that was just a gimmick when I first got it, but its has proven to be very valuable.

Sorry to be so far off-topic... I'm just hoping someone from Festool is paying attention. Probably not, but I figured I'd try again anyway.
 
Things I would like to see improved whith HL850
1)dust chute could be eaiser switch left to right.
2)the angle fence should bevel at least 5 deg past 0 the other direction(I've made the mod but just don't feel I should have to modify a $500.00 tool for something tha should be stock)
3)variable speed
4)plug it cord
 
I have bought OF1400. Twice, my microadjustment ring has blocked in the very low position. I had to remove the bottom part of the router to ease the microadjustment ring. Why is there no scale to see the position of this ring? Or why is it blocked so easy?

I switch from random to rotary mode with every grit on my RO150. I'd like to have a brake for stopping Rotex much faster (the same as with OF1400).

Joseph
 
TahoeTwoBears said:
Larger pictures on all products. Better descriptors on the accessories, with perhaps useage being shown. Frequently, I discover by accident, what an accessory is for/does. Changes the whole outlook on the tool. 

Mike

I second the motion! 

Steve
 
Can I "third" that motion?  For example, without someone explaining how and why you might use different size copy rings, as in Jerry Work's MFS manual, I would never have considered purchase of more than one size.  Or why a copy ring at all when you can buy a  bearing collar bit.  Or why someone might be willing to pay a few hundred dollars for 4 little pieces of aluminum extrusions that can be fastened together into quadrilaterals of varying sizes when a few pieces of scrap fastened to some scrap plywood or MDF can be quickly fabricated to route some opening or slot.  Festool is definitely missing sales here.

Dave R.
 
TahoeTwoBears said:
Larger pictures on all products. Better descriptors on the accessories, with perhaps useage being shown. Frequently, I discover by accident, what an accessory is for/does. Changes the whole outlook on the tool. 

Yep, I've found that, too. I don't have a CT22 or 33, but a CT Mini. Whilst at my dealer a few months ago, He showed me the 'blower' function on the side of his demo CT22, which he used to clear a blocked hose. I was amazed that it had that, I'd never seen anything about that mentioned in any catalogue or on a website. Something like that is a major plus-point, and yet it's never mentioned!!! Seems a wasted opportunity to me.
 
Jonny,

That port is (I think) referred to as the exhaust port.  One purpose would be to use it to vent odors outside of the work environment when on the job site.  It's available on the 22/33 extractors.  Great feature and I agree that it should be better documented.  We are committed to providing better information about the products, their features and accessories -- it will just take time to produce that content.

Shane
 
I have been pondering the idea of putting that exhaust port to use to create a positive flow back to the housing under my router table. That is, to create a siphoning effect for evacuating chips. I might be all wet but I think strategic placement may provide more airflow and better pick-up. Problem is, too many experiments get in the way of cutting wood.
 
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