Festool Stile and Rail bit--Festool 490645

[skids]

Is this a bit you could use freehand? Or is a table mandatory for bits in this category?

 

[neeleman]

Photo's say more then words.
I think you mean this one?
I would say you can better use it in a table for a better result.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Is this a bit you could use freehand? Or is a table mandatory for bits in this category?

Skids and Everyone,

Nearly all stile and rail router bit sets work the same way. The Festool version proved better than average when I used in on a trip to Europe.

However, to use these freehand is a challenge because on material as narrow as door frame stock there is not much material to support the router and you have no good way to clamp the stock without modifying clamping elements. It is just so much easier to use a router table.

 

[skids]

Is this a bit you could use freehand? Or is a table mandatory for bits in this category?

Skids and Everyone,

Nearly all stile and rail router bit sets work the same way. The Festool version proved better than average when I used in on a trip to Europe.

However, to use these freehand is a challenge because on material as narrow as door frame stock there is not much material to support the router and you have no good way to clamp the stock without modifying clamping elements. It is just so much easier to use a router table.

Thanks..Any reason you can't cut the stock width after you router it out?

 

[ccarrolladams]

Thanks..Any reason you can't cut the stock width after you router it out?

Perhaps in theory that would be possible, but with the usual 50mm wide cabinet door and drawer front stiles and rails, that would only result in 1 110mm wide piece to route on both sides before sawing and then jointing.

Nobody I know wants to edge route a piece 100mm wide freehand for stiles. Routing the rail cope cut freehand is far more difficult. but if you ganged several of them you could clamp them. But everything would need to go perfectly with the freehand router.

Okay, so to saw the two pieces apart and jointer them, you would need a table saw and a jointer, which is a start toward a cabinet making shop. More realistically those starting in the cabinet business buy their drawer boxes and, door fronts and cabinet doors from vendors.

Have you ever met a shop owner with a table saw and jointer who did not also own a router table?

But, by all means have a great insurance policy and have a go at routing rails and stiles freehand.

 

[skids]

Thanks..Any reason you can't cut the stock width after you router it out?

Perhaps in theory that would be possible, but with the usual 50mm wide cabinet door and drawer front stiles and rails, that would only result in 1 110mm wide piece to route on both sides before sawing and then jointing.

Nobody I know wants to edge route a piece 100mm wide freehand for stiles. Routing the rail cope cut freehand is far more difficult. but if you ganged several of them you could clamp them. But everything would need to go perfectly with the freehand router.

Okay, so to saw the two pieces apart and jointer them, you would need a table saw and a jointer, which is a start toward a cabinet making shop. More realistically those starting in the cabinet business buy their drawer boxes and, door fronts and cabinet doors from vendors.

Have you ever met a shop owner with a table saw and jointer who did not also own a router table?

But, by all means have a great insurance policy and have a go at routing rails and stiles freehand.

Well obviously I am not looking to get hurt and use my insurance, which is why I asked the question. I am new to routing, have an OF1010 and trying to get my head around the limitations and tolerances of this router. Eventually I want to add the CMS to my MFT, but wanted to know if there was a way to try my hand at a door or two.

For now I will stick to edging with the 1010 until I get better with it. So for the router is a little gem.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Cope and Stick joints are by their nature Advanced Router Techniques. Long ago we did make those with 1000w routers, and that is still enough power. The problem is these days those bits have 1/2" shanks.

My suggestion is to but a few bits for your OF1010 and practice on various kinds of material to gain confidence. Keep increasing the complexity of the bits. Then when you are ready and confident, buy an OF1400, which can accept larger bits and uses 1/2" shanks. Probably you could buy some scraps of 1x6" poplar or soft maple. Clamp one end so you have room to try 12 to 20" cuts on the edges with Stick bits. The Cope bits take more practice since they are end grain and the parts are narrow, but the skills and experience you gain making the Stick cuts will build your confidence.

Festools are all marvelous, but besides buying them we all need to practice and with luck get some coaching. Routing, like jointing and thickness planing require a feel for the wood, which comes with experience.

 

[sprior]

Skids, while you're waiting to buy the CMS of your dreams you should keep in mind that you certainly can cheaply build a functional router table to work with in the meantime.  Buy  a universal router plate, drill mounting holes to match your router, make a stand out of 2x4s, table out of mdf or melamine (the careful part is cutting the hole and rabbit for the plate, and then a fence is two pieces of mdf at 90 degrees with a hole to clear the bit and maybe a dust collector fitting out the back.  You clamp the fence to the table with whatever clamps you have around.  This really does work and you could use it when making those doors with the bit you mentioned and cost around $100.  And yes you will be delighted to replace it later with the CMS, but you'll have experience to appreciate the upgrade.

 

[skids]

Thanks gents! This is all excellent advice...I admit I know little about routing on a table (MFT) like this..I have only used a router in the past for quick edge trimming here and there. This is a whole new animal routing with a Festool router. I am still fascinated at how you adjust the milling depth on this router, the precision is awesome.

I need to get busy on a few projects that this router is capable of. Like you said it will help build some confidence as I build towards more sophisticated projects and tools. I ordered a book today, hopefully that sheds some light on some things I can do.