Festool TKS 80 for absolute beginner - opinion, problems, alternatives?

[jozef]

Hi guys. I have looked up all the available threads on TKS  80, but still can't wrap my mind around which table saw to buy.

For start - I'm in EU.

Biggest concern - safety.

Usage - home garage.

DIY projects for myself, later on probably projects for others. Not construction work, but "fine" and cabinet work.

Was really disappointed that SawStop is not available in EU. When I have been told FESTOOL is launching TKS 80 I was really happy and knew this is the saw for me.

But when asked on Reddit if it's a good choice I was pointed out it's not really the best for me. As the saw has two main problems:

1 - fence goes easily out of alignment

2 - build isn't very sturdy

Can someone please confirm this is really the case and something I would need to worry about?

I was told cabinet/sliding saw would be much better for "fine" woodworking. But as a total beginner do I even need it?

The alternatives I was recommended were to buy something like Felder/Hammer which honestly is out of price range. Or Mafell Erika.

I like the Erika quite a lot, but still worried about it not having SawStop technology. Is it really that much more safe using push-pull table saw? Why - because of less chance for kickback? If one has miter saw does one still prefer Erika over TKS 80?

People also pointed out this is not really a workshop saw as it's more suited to someone who plans on carrying it. And I need to look at more robust options.

Now I'm super confused.

Any help is really appreciated.

 

[threesixright]

I have a TKS 80. Sturdy build IMO. I’m not sure about the fence. Didn’t have the option to use it a lot. But it feels and looks solid.

If you want sawstop, its the only option here in the EU.

The ERIKA has no sawstop and is more expensive.

I think using a TS55 for sheet cutting and the TKS for the rest.

I bought it for my (all to be made)  kitchen and cabinets around the house.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi!

It's actually quite simple.

If you want the saw-stop feature it's the TKS 80, or going endless miles extra trying to source & import one of the actual SawStop saws - I know for sure about exactly one actual SawStop in Germany.

The TKS 80 was made with job-site safety & portability as some of the main concerns in mind. It will never be as sturdy/heavy as cabinet or sliding table saws.

You will - without a doubt - be able to achieve great results with the TKS 80 - as have hundreds of woodworkers before you with the older Festool models (and continue to do) - and if you're not planning on a permanent workshop setup in your garage, it's the way to go. Especially considering it's overall footprint.

People with large shops, handling whole sheets of material & building cabinets for a living - will obviously disagree and say a cabinet/ sliding table saw is the only way to go.

And if you ask in a *specific* German forum, they will tell you to buy old "last century" industrial equipment as it is so much better, beefier, sturdier, more accurate (that is, if you can adjust it and want to spent some days "under the hood" of such a monster ...) ...

I'd say go TKS 80 and be happy. It will do the exact repetitive cuts you need most.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Birdhunter]

I own the really big SawStop. The blade stopping ability was a big plus in my decision.

But, I think table saw safety also has to do with how solid the saw is. If the trunion flexes, you will have bad cuts and kick backs. If the saw vibrates, you will have rough cuts and small cutoffs can vibrate into the saw blade and fly back at you. If the fence isn't true, you get crooked cuts, pinched cuts (kick back), and binding (kick backs).

The best machine tools , including table saws, are heavy, ridged. and built to stay aligned.

Just my two pence.

 

[infer]

A Hammer K3 is also an option if you value safety. The sliding carriage keeps your fingers far from the blade.

 

[jozef]

Thank you very much for the replies. As I see the opinions are quite mixed even here.

Thinking about another option. As an alternative to table saw thinking about Festool/Mafell track saw + Omga miter saw?

I think maybe the speed wouldn't be exactly the same, but with this combination I would guess everything can be done as with the table saw, just safer?

A Hammer K3 is also an option if you value safety. The sliding carriage keeps your fingers far from the blade.

Hammer K3 was recommended on reddit too as an alternative. But what I don't really figure out is - how the Hammer system prevents you hands getting close to the blade opposed to using the sliding attachment on the Festool.

To me it looks exactly the same. Was checking out all the possible videos, but have not seen any difference, except of course that the Hammer is lot bigger and more stable and the sliding thing is exactly next to the blade. Opposed to having a fixed platform and then a sliding thing. But how this would make cutting safer I simply can't understand. So, if you/someone could explain I would really appreciate it.

 

[threesixright]

Thank you very much for the replies. As I see the opinions are quite mixed even here.

Thinking about another option. As an alternative to table saw thinking about Festool/Mafell track saw + Omga miter saw?

I think maybe the speed wouldn't be exactly the same, but with this combination I would guess everything can be done as with the table saw, just safer?

A Hammer K3 is also an option if you value safety. The sliding carriage keeps your fingers far from the blade.

Hammer K3 was recommended on reddit too as an alternative. But what I don't really figure out is - how the Hammer system prevents you hands getting close to the blade opposed to using the sliding attachment on the Festool.

To me it looks exactly the same. Was checking out all the possible videos, but have not seen any difference, except of course that the Hammer is lot bigger and more stable and the sliding thing is exactly next to the blade. Opposed to having a fixed platform and then a sliding thing. But how this would make cutting safer I simply can't understand. So, if you/someone could explain I would really appreciate it.

If you want as safe as possible. TKS. Period. There is here in EU nothing else.

The K3 is same-ish  price (as the TKS SET) and can cut 100@90. The basic TKS comes under 2k.

I think TBH most important is no blade wobble, enough power and a good blade. The blade is what cuts. Obviously a good fence, but you could even add a INCRA, if factory fence is not good enough.

If you want real “safe” as in if your hand touches the blade with minimal damage, there is simply not many options (read one).

Just my 0.02

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[FestitaMakool]

As most said, anything bigger is in fact a large cabinet saw. The TKS 80 is on the borderline of being portable. If I understand you right you don’t have space for a stationary saw. Then wanting Saw Stop, the TKS is an obvious choice. It can be moved by one person, the optional fence and widening table is the first preferable options. Then there’s the sliding table, which can be invaluable. In short, you may have a “portable” sliding cabinet saw, or at least one of the closest options there is, with the safety of Saw Stop.

Not sure which fence your referring to? The included is in my opinion ok, but will slightly flex if you are hard at hand. Otherwise using good technique, it is enough. The optional fence (included in “SET” version) is secure, sturdy, and has a micro adjustment feature - I like it a lot.

I just noticed a pre-owned ERIKA 85 for sale here, it was above pricing of a new TKS 80.
Which brings me to pull/push saw. I’ve got a Precisio 50 SET version and a Metabo Secanta which both are pull saws. This has been new to me, but very soon I loved the more secure and controlled cross cuts I can do on these saws. The sliding table helps too, and the pull saw has replaced most of my cuts previously done on a sliding miter saw. My Kapex lives a quiet life these days [big grin]. I did just yesterday bevel cuts on outside window trimmings, the ease and accuracy cuts on the 6” wide boards makes these saws a breeze to use.

On my Metabo I have a wing table with stops, on the Precisio I have used the Kapex wings with stops, I know others do too - replacing a miter saw only limited to cut depth, you can do finishing work.

 

[Bertotti]

At one time I was just salivating for a nice big cabinet saw. I then discovered using a couple of tables I was able to do anything the table saw could do with my ts55. I have a small inexpensive Ryobi table saw but generally, everything I cut is on my tables with the ts55. A couple of jigs and you can have the repeatability the table saw gives, other than the tables it is easy to store away and you still have all the tablespace for other work. It may be a bit slower than a table saw but I don’t need speed. I have become perfectly happy with my track saw replacing the table saw. I am sure this isn’t true for everyone, it all depends on your needs and production if that is a consideration. But doing this means no saw stop, fiddling around a bit more with jigs, and paying very close attention to your measurements. It is not foolproof.

 

[FestitaMakool]

On the note on sturdiness, the TKS is well built - drawbacks would be just the same as Precisio CS 50 and 70. That would be the foldable legs. They are high quality, but it’s not dead weight, and will move if handled hard. If you build a rolling base with solid lockable casters - you’re closing in on a regular smaller cabinet saw.
I think what I noticed when viewing it, is what others have mentioned - there’s plastic covers underneath that may break when handling/carrying.

A Saw Stop is only safer in that one manner: That is whenever a part of your body comes in contact with the spinning blade. That would be in most cases the hand or arm.
It’s no safer in any other regards, it’ll kick back just the same.
A pull saw let’s you hold or clamp your workpiece far from the moving saw blade. That way your hands will be on a safe distance to the blade. That is that you do not hold a small piece close or hold your hand close. Kick back can happen, but reduced when doing cross cuts - and it’s the flying piece that’ll harm of stood right up front of the flight path. With pull saw you can stand aside and off center of the blade.