Fine Saw Blade (491952) with TS55 blunt ?!?

[paul_david_thomas]

Hi,

I've got two fine wood blades with my TS55 (I also have a panther & Ali blade). They have been in use for about two years - now, don't laugh... But since doing quite some MDF work, they seem to be blunting. I've used de-greaser and cleaned out the teeth on the blades - and all went well... But after a hundred or so more cuts.. They seem to be dulling again.

1. Is it the case I should now just send them off and get them properly cleaned / sharpened.
2. I also assume doing a lot of MDF cutting (1") will cause more problems because of the glue
3. What speed do you cut MDF at ? 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 (or 11 for those rockers amongst you)
4. A couple of the teeth (3 or so) have small breaks - should I get them replaced ?

Paul.

p.s. I sawed out on some 2"x6" timber about 8' long and it ripped through it like butter - only takes a sec to swap out. poor fine blade, wel

 

[nickao]

After two years I would get the blades sharpened and they probably can fix the chips, if it is cost effective is another issue.

Dulling after a hundred cuts in MDF seems quite reasonable.

I am always in a rush and always cut with full speed for wood. I might change the speed if I was cutting something else like plastic or metal.

The cracked or damaged tips can break off and fly in your face so be careful.

 

[tvogel400]

Paul

1 Find your local saw sharpener and use them. Keep your blades clean with easy off oven cleaner(toxic and alkaline) or 3m adhesive remover, spray on let set and scrub off in water witha plastic or brass brush. Be warned the pretty paint will dissapear.

2 Mdf  is very abrasive it will dull a atb blade much faster than a tcg style tooth. I sort of agree agree w/ nick  how long are these cuts are they bevels are you using dc, 100 cutts in .75 mdf till dull would IMHO be very disappointing.

3 As fast as you can to get good results, I would think mdf would require full speed. Keep that blade moving-remember heat destroys everything.

4 Your sharpening service  should be able to replace teeth that have been damaged.

A 48 tooth blade should cost around $20 with replaced teeth around $7 a pop-at least in my area -SF bay area. Sharpening makes sense because IMHO the
stock blade should be good for a least 5-6 sharpenings.

Keep the blade clean and inspect it frequently-treat it right and it will reward you.

Good luck
Tom
 

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Thanks for the responses.

I usually cut at 5 or 6 speed. I've done quite a bit of work with these blades before they got hit by the MDF.

I'll get both cleaned and corrected by a local company. I think it's a cost of ?12 - so $20 ish.

Your right, they should be good for a few re-sharpens. I've been extremely happy with the quality of the cuts from the blades. To give you an examples, here are some shots from my place - well, some stairs in engineered walnut. The cuts needed no retouching or sanding and were spot on to the mm....

Paul.

 

[Daviddubya]

You can get perfectly satisfactory results using a blade with less teeth than the 48 tooth Fine blade when cutting MDF, unless the MDF is veneered.  The 28 tooth Universal blade will work well.  As stated, MDF is hard on blades.

When having your blades sharpened, seek out a sharpening shop that local cabinet shops use.  I am fortunate to have an excellent sharpening shop locally in the Phoenix area, Scott's Sharpening Service.  Scott does mail order work, if you want to go that route.

 

[gkeas]

3. What speed do you cut MDF at ? 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 (or 11 for those rockers amongst you)

Paul.

Nice "Spinal Tap" referrence!

I cut MDF (melamine included) at full blast (11).  I make a scoring cut, then go for it!  I have 2 of the fine cut blades, so 1 is always sharp.

 

[Ted Miller]

Paul, If any blades have cracked brazing or missing teeth, replace the blade on your saw right away. If a tooth is missing or chipped this causing excessive force on the next tooth inline. I have seen teeth come off blades at a full spin and it was not a pretty sight.

MDF will gum up gullets and clogg around teeth very fast causing the teeth not to cut like they should at certain speeds. Plus the blades heat up that much faster. When I cut a lot MDF I clean and inspect my blades weekly...

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Cutting walnut today and it was as if I was having a large cigar !!

Took both of my blades to be cleaned, cut and have teeth replaced. Let's hope it's not too expensive !!

Paul.

 

[tvogel400]

Paul

Seriously- get the rip blade. Walnut is a tough wood, 48 teeth are too many, plus you are just heating them up and dulling them faster.

Actually maybe some one can answer me this is the 28 tooth 160mm blade the same kerf as the 48 universal blade? i.e 2.2mm. I ask because I went to festool

store and the package said 2.5-my catalog says 2.2. ???

Tom

 

[nickao]

No walnut is actually very soft. Softer than a lot of "softwoods".

One of the characteristics of Walnut is it does create a smoke when cutting, but not because it is hard. I do agree a rip blade would be better for ripping and less teeth also would make cutting easier. But Walnut is one of the softest "hardwoods".

A simple test for hardness is press the wood with your finger nail. I can write my name in Walnut, but not Oak and definitely not Brazilian Cherry or most exotics.

You can also check a Janka chart. Janka is the measurement test used to determine woods relative hardness.

Partial janka chart

Nickao

 

[paul_david_thomas]

Nickao,

Ummm... That's useful to know. It was smoking and leaving black residue - or at least REALLY dark. It was ok, as most of the exposed area was not going to be visible. The visible area I camfered off with a hand plane - I needed to take 5mm off at a 45deg angle.

Nah, these blades were nearly 2 years old had a few chips on the teeth and done A LOT of work - three complete house projects - all the second fix work. Most first first I tend to do with a Makita drop (studs/joists) and a cheap SkilSaw (ripping) as I don't want to hurt my baby FESTOOL's...

Now, skirts, doors, floors, kitchens... FESTOOL's get loose on this.

Actually, I lie... I cut and lay about 140sq m of ply's and chipboard in my last project and that needed to be spot on - that was a TS55 & Guide rail.

Paul.

 

[nickao]

2 years old! You are getting your monies worth for sure.

Obviously you were stretching the usefulness of the blades. The walnut will smoke a very little and leave a very little amount of black residue. But not nearly the amount you are describing. Sounds like time for new blades for you.

Nickao