Finish Carpenters, need opinions

CarolinaNomad said:
Builderbob and Deepcreek,  I don't mean to interrupt the OP's thread, but I would like to see a pic of the stained shoe.  I've never seen that install.

I think it's a regional thing.
Ever since BM Decorators White became the "it" white for trim, we paint everything here.
Tim
 
Sparktrician said:
What about some 3/8" x 1-3/8" WM-946 Ogee Stop?

For some reason, I can't seem to get the shot in here.  Go to Smoot Lumber's millwork catalog, p. A-58.  It's about half-way down the page.  Might look good in this application, stood vertically. 

[smile]

I didn't account for adding actual base when I did this, so that might not look right because of the height would mess with the rails looking balanced. I could rip that down though, or use the LWM 951 just above the one you suggested. I think my mistake was in that moment of choosing not to add base-although there were good reasons not to. SInce this is the path, I think scribing the floor and calling it a day was a requirement. For my tastes anyway.

This is my point, and Peter brings up a great point..Is adding more detail down there a detractor, or does it add to this wainscot. I find this style wainscot to be very simple looking, colonial if you will. I made it look more formal with plinths and Windsor casing because this is the living room and dining room area of the house, and wanted a formal look.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
skids said:
I dont' have a pic of these two rooms I am referencing for the shoemolding on hand, but here is a pic I had in my phone of the staircase I did which has the same Wainscot detail.

Looks really good.
It's really subjective, but if the room can handle it I like more shadow line created by the back band and I like the cap to run into it rather ears. I don't think there is a right way and each clients requirements and room proportions etc. needs to be considered.
Thanks for posting, from here your work looks excellent.
Tim

Thanks, and I agree about the shadow lines. And you bring up an excellent point about whether the room can handle it, I call it scale. In my home this is of critical importance due to the fact the ceilings are only 8 foot. Wasn't until I got this house and broke into doing more moldings I discovered how much this limits me. But I have found work arounds.Quite honestly, I though of ordering 1/2 inch stock for the panels.. But in my next house, high ceilings is a requirement so I can go buck wild.

BTW, I have to admit, I didnt' do the skirts on that stair case, all the rails, wainscot and finish was me, and my Festools.  [wink]
 
skids said:
CarolinaNomad said:
Builderbob and Deepcreek,  I don't mean to interrupt the OP's thread, but I would like to see a pic of the stained shoe.  I've never seen that install.

Skids - I see that you are using drywall as part of your wainscot paneling.  Are you planning to spray finish or other?  I've seen this numerous times and I can tell right away the difference between the Drywall area and the MDF due to the texture of the paint.  If there is away to match the finished quality of the MDF with drywall.  Let me know

Sticking with the drywall, wasn't looking to make the project that complex otherwise I might as well went with raised panel wainscot. I didn't want shadow box, and didn't want the labor and expense of RP, so this was a nice happy medium. Although it was more work than I anticipated, but I love it nonetheless. I find sanding with the DTS with like a 220 calms that paint down enough. Priming helps too.

The staircase pic of the finish looks great.  I wasn't suggesting to change.  I am more curious to know how to finish drywall to match the MDF.  My last wainscoting job, like yours, I decided to go with 1/4" MDF to cover up the drywall due to I didn't know how to finish the drywall to match the mdf.  

 
Tim Raleigh said:
CarolinaNomad said:
Builderbob and Deepcreek,  I don't mean to interrupt the OP's thread, but I would like to see a pic of the stained shoe.  I've never seen that install.

I think it's a regional thing.
Ever since BM Decorators White became the "it" white for trim, we paint everything here.
Tim

It must be, because the only color I know is CC40. [big grin]
 
Personally I think more detail will look wrong based on your picture. To me it will look like there should be something more below it. And / or an additional something at the top to balance it out.

I agree that you feel you should have scribed the to the floor and left it at that. So I would be trying to make the shoe (yes actual shoe  molding shape) disappear especially with the wavy floor. Last thing you need is to see a more detailed molding  draw the eye to the waves.

Poly, stain, paint.... do a few sample feet with each and place them in a row along the floor / wall so you can compare to see what works the best.

Qtr. rnd. will  not be noticed by most , but will look wrong to anyone that knows  [wink]

Seth

 
Thanks guys, I knew I would get great advice here. I will let you know where I land. Thinking shoe is the way to go, although there are some other profiles in this catalog I might get samples of.

WHat do you folks think if these shoes..Control F and seach 131, 125P, 129P

http://www.mouldingandmillwork.com/wp-content/uploads/NE_Contractor_Booklet_2012_web.pdf

Is it because the shoe climbs the bottom rail a little that makes such a difference from quarter round? They just seem so similar to me.
 
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

 
deepcreek said:
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

I'm a fan of the oak that matches the floors. It's not an eyesore by any means. Plus it's more resilient to vacuuming along the edges. Something that's painted has a greater chance of taking a noticeable beating!

Bob
 
deepcreek said:
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

Come to think of it, I might have seen this before but didn't notice it because the quarter round almost disappears.
 
deepcreek said:
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

Someone should have centered that outlet....
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
deepcreek said:
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

Someone should have centered that outlet....

And unless it's an optical illusion, the boxes look like they are different sizes too. Stairs look nice though.

Honestly, to me it's almost a 6 of 1 half dozen of the other scenario when it comes to the finish on the shoe..I lean a little more towards paint grade since everything else in my house is paint grade and my floors aren't newly finished. They will be (probably 2014) and I am sure I will have to rip this shoe out at that time, so maybe then I will toy with the idea when I do it all at once.

You also run the risk of getting the wrong type of oak when you do it this way. I have white oak floors, and in my area white oak parts of anything are a special order. I hate the idea of red and white oak being laid right on top of each. But then again, 9 out of 10 aren't going to notice. But I will, and I did it, and I have live there.
 
I would go with shoe. Looks a lot better than quarter round in my opinion. I like to see base at bottom of wainscoting.
 
SRSemenza said:
Personally I think more detail will look wrong based on your picture. To me it will look like there should be something more below it. And / or an additional something at the top to balance it out.

I agree that you feel you should have scribed the to the floor and left it at that. So I would be trying to make the shoe (yes actual shoe  molding shape) disappear especially with the wavy floor. Last thing you need is to see a more detailed molding  draw the eye to the waves.

Poly, stain, paint.... do a few sample feet with each and place them in a row along the floor / wall so you can compare to see what works the best.

Qtr. rnd. will  not be noticed by most , but will look wrong to anyone that knows  [wink]

Seth

Seth, I like what you advise about making a sample of each before committing.
I have certainly seen both applications.  How soon are the floors being refinished, btw?  When that happens, the shoe finish will have to be revisited anyways.  If it's left in place, they are going to mar it. Otherwise, you may end up with a scoop/rise to the edges of room.  Many flooring finishers will include floor-matched shoe with the floors. 

Also - yes, 1/4 round looks horrific.  Base shoe is best. 
A more detailed "shoe moulding" would not only be distracting from the rest of your work, but it's also a PITA to clean/maintain.
 
Got some shoe samples on the way home today..I think I like the shoe best, probably go that route.

 
builderbob said:
deepcreek said:
Here's a photo from Google that shows a typical installation of hardwood floors, stained shoe, and painted wainscoting.

I'm a fan of the oak that matches the floors. It's not an eyesore by any means. Plus it's more resilient to vacuuming along the edges. Something that's painted has a greater chance of taking a noticeable beating!

Bob

It also minimizes the need for scribing by making irregularities far less noticeable.

 
Here it is normal to stain / finish the shoe molding to match the floor.  I think that practice may have come from speed and ease (many times a quick drying finish if just a clear), and also in an effort to trick the eye if there is future movement.  I think that a gap between two similarly colored woods (particularly if they are oriented 90 degrees to each other) creates a shadow line that is not as noticeable as if the situation had two differently colored (white shoe / stain floor) products.

Just something to think about.

Peter
 
Thanks guys..Kind of leaning towards this shoe..Anyone ever work with it? Not too fancy right?
 
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