Finishing a Cherry counter

[TurnagainD]

I'm starting a project that calls for a Cherry bar top and I'm wondering what to finish it with.  We use a 3 part thinner, 2 part urethane, 1 part linseed oil on trim but I think something more durable is in order here.  The new top we are putting in sits above a beech top that has not been re-finished in 8 years on use in a restaurant and it still looks good.  It has a built up look to it and I'd like a similar look with similar longevity.

I appreciate any help out there.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[Gregory Paolini]

Kevin,

If for home use, just modify your existing recipe a little, to 3 parts poly, 2 thinner, and 1 oil.  This will give a faster, thicker build, and after a few coats, should provide plenty of protection for a bar top.  You'll have to work a little faster though, since the thicker finish will gum up faster if left alone.

For commercial apps, I would consider a conversion finish, or even an epoxy.

Hope this helps!
Gregory Paolini

 

[Sparktrician]

+1 on Gregory's comment.  Cherry is so soft that it dings easily and is easily liquid-spotted in a bar environment, so a good epoxy finish would protect the wood from dings, water, and alcoholic substances. 

[smile]

 

[EvilNuff]

For home use, I have a similar cherry project (though I don't need quite the durability) would cutting back on the poly help the appearance at all?  Any specific poly's y'all would recommend?

 

[Sam Murdoch]

The hardest and still very easy to apply (and repair) finish that I have ever used on a many, many wood tops is WATERLOX. Don't apply it with a rag like you would with other oil finishes, like Watco, but liberally with a good brush. It will level out beautifully overnight. The only down side is that you do need a dry, dust free environment with temperature over 55° in order to apply Waterlox properly. After 2 or 3 coats the grain of your cherry top will be revealed in a way that no urethane or epoxy can duplicate - no plastic look here. Comes in the original satin or as a high gloss. Yup, I love it!

 

[RonMiller]

I'm about to do a similar bit of work - a 33" by 11' cherry kitchen countertop. Does anyone have actual experience with Rubio Monocoat? It's expensive but less than Waterlox when all the parts are added up (since I want a satin or matte finish). And it's a one coat deal rather than the 5 coats on the top and 4 on the bottom that WL recommends. That's one day of work versus about 2 weeks.

Anyone compared these or done work with Monocoat?