finishing dry wall at a sliding door

[truck90278]

need some advice.  My son has just had a sliding door installed at his house.  Now the interior needs finishing.  The studs are level with the edge of the door, so when drywall is applied it will be proud of the door.  What do you use to cover the edge of the dry wall at the door so we have a nice edge that won't chip.  ???

Thx for the help in advance
Ralph

 

[Old School Carpenter]

If I understand the question correctly this would be like a standard patio door? If that's the case, typically you would make an extension jamb out to the finish plane of the drywall, and then apply casing as normal. Another option would be to use a cornerbead and finish the drywall edge with a drywall return to the door.

Mike

 

[truck90278]

correct it is a patio door, now not sure what you mean by an extension jam.  are you saying  add an estension from the door frame to the edge of the drywall?  the door frame is flush with the studs, so when the dry wall is added, the extension would be only the thickness of of the dry wall.  Is a cornerbead something obtained from the Borg? and what is a "drywall return" to the door.  What i left out was, WE've never done this before, and money is short.

Thanks

 

[Julian Tracy]

You get what's called "J-Bead".  It slips over the drywall edge, you mud the taper to the edge of the Jbead and end up with a hard clean 1/2" edge.  Caulk that before painting and it'll be a clean, durable look.

For any drywall tips and info about specialized drywall finishing products, check Trimtex.com, I wouldn't be surprised if there was a wealth of information there to be had.

Julian

 

[truck90278]

thanks for the suggestions, this gets us in the right direction

 

[Old School Carpenter]

it is a patio door, now not sure what you mean by an extension jam.  are you saying add an extension from the door frame to the edge of the drywall? 
Yes
the door frame is flush with the studs, so when the dry wall is added, the extension would be only the thickness of of the dry wall.
 Correct, the extension in this case would only be 1/2 thick.
Is a cornerbead something obtained from the Borg?
Yes, your local Borg will have a selection of them, as well as J bead, L bead, etc. as mentioned by Julian
and what is a "drywall return" to the door.
In essence a drywall corner that "returns" or ends at the patio door, without trim made of wood 
What i left out was, We've never done this before, and money is short.
Not a problem, if you can mud drywall, you can do this, and the cost is minimal

Mike

 

[Old School Carpenter]

I get it but be nice to see a picture to see overall look???

Here is a drywall return,(a large one, as the house is an old stone farmhouse with 30" of stone). Cornerbead at the wall surface, L- bead at the window edge.

Mike

 

[jmarkflesher]

I vote for the metal J molding. Make sure you get a Spackle J molding and not a painted J molding. Ask for 1/2" if it is 1/2" rock because they make a 5/8" also. MARK

 

[truck90278]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions, helps a lot.  We started working on this project today. One issue we are dealing with is the old walls were plaster and not dry wall, On one side of the window we have to add drywall which needs to be flush with the plaster surface.  first measurements appeared to show the plaster was 1" thick, so we thought, OK simply have two layers of dry wall, well not that simple, appears the plaster is 7/8" so doubling the dry wall would be too thick.  Where this will be, we are only adding about 4" of drywall (width).  Short of tearing out all the plaster on this one wall, I was thinking why not simply add 3/8" strips on top of the studs which would space out the dry wall and make it flush with plaster.  What say you experts on this approach??  thanks for all the help and suggestions.

 

[Old School Carpenter]

Yes, shimming the drywall out is the best course of action. The joint between the plaster and drywall should be taped with paper tape and compound.
But before that I would recomend using Durabond powder mix to prefill any joints between the two. This is most like the plaster when it hardens and will provide a non-shrinking base for taping and finishing.
Be careful though, durabond is not really sandable, so make sure it is smooth and will be covered with the drywall compound.

Mike

 

[tjbnwi]

I did not read all the responses, but I'd do a jamb extension and casing just like you want to do with the windows. Less the stool and apron of course.

Tom

 

[Saskataper]

http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=viewcategory&catid=26

I think this is what you are looking for, metal bead is junk in my opinion, it's prone to denting and even rusting. TrimTex will have something that will work and it won't rust or dent, they even have an L-bead that will do a 5 5/8 return which saves having to put drywall on window returns.

I agree with the previous poster about using durabond to prefill then if you can find some use this tape
http://www.sg-adfors.com/Brands/FibaTape/FibaFuseDrywallTape
It's much easier than paper and stronger, and be aware that when you mud over the existing painted walls you will get bubbles (fisheyes) the best way to reduce them is to put mud on the area wait a few minutes then wipe it off and re mud it this usually will reduce but not eliminate the fisheyes, you will likely have to touch some up after its primed.

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I didn't see anyone make a comment regarding a reveal at the connection.  Placing a reveal at the connection is a personal preference.  It's possible to make it flush, but eventually the two materials will separate and create a crack along the connection.  When it will happen or how often it happens depends on the stability of the area.  Placing a minimum 3/16" reveal will help hide the crack when it occurs and make it easier to repair without trying to caulk the seam flush.