First Festool purchase - WOW!

[GaryFL08]

I'm sure this is no surprise to any of you guys out there, but I just had to post my excitement about my first Festool purchase.  I finally made the "plunge" and picked up a TS55/CT22 combo pre-price increase.  This weekend, I cut down some 3/4" birch ply and MDF to start doing a built-in wall/bechtop in my small shop.  WOW....I'd heard and seen how clean this thing cuts, but I had to do a comparison to my Jet cabinet saw w/ Freud combo industrial blade using ZCTP which also cuts beautifully) - comparing the cutline, the 2 were alsmost indistinguishable....looking closer the TS55 gave a superior cut with very slightly less fraying.  More than that was just how fast I blew through a couple 4x8 sheets...IN my shop, which is only 11x21!!  I've always had to take sheets out to the driveway and rough cut them down w/ my circular, then over to the TS to clean up.  WOW....my Jet TS (the one taking up 1/2 of my shop) is jealous.  And, the fact that my shop isnt covered in MDF dust ala CT22 is amazing.  Again, all stuff you guys know, but I'm so excited to move forward on my projects now with with this combo....

Question - obviously the 55" rail is somewhat limiting when ripping down a sheet.  I've heard dont get the same rail twice....but what is the best thing to do if getting another one?  Do I get a 75" and interlock them, or go with the 106"?  How accurate are they when interlocking vs. a single piece?  How quickly can they be interlocked?

Thanks!

 

[Dixon Peer]

Yes, the Festool set up you have is great for breaking down sheet goods.  Now you're hooked. 

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Gary
Welcome to the slippery slope.  I got started with Festool with exactly the same combo you have.  Bought it for breaking down sheets, but soon realized you can make the final cuts with it.  Table saw is pretty quiet these days.

Partial answer to your question... I bought a second 55 incher and have no regrets.  In my shop, it would be hard to store a single long rail, but the two 55'ers share a nail on the wall.

The rails go together pretty easily.  There's a little metal plug with set screws.  You need two, one for each channel.  I leave the joiner in one rail and just pop the other one on/off as needed.  Just run your finger down the joint to feel any offset.  If it feels smooth, then your cut will be straight.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/...d=929e1ef1207a5a8ba1323e30855953a7&pid=482107

If you follow my slide down the slope, a sander is next, then the mft will really put your table saw out of business.

 

[Ned]

Question - obviously the 55" rail is somewhat limiting when ripping down a sheet.  I've heard dont get the same rail twice....but what is the best thing to do if getting another one?  Do I get a 75" and interlock them, or go with the 106"?  How accurate are they when interlocking vs. a single piece?  How quickly can they be interlocked?

Here's the Never buy the same size rail thread.  Many of the arguments are there.

You can't beat having a single rail, but a 2700 or 3000 is pretty much a single-use rail, too--it's only good for those very long cuts.  Lots of people get acceptable results with joined rails, and the smaller rails are more versatile.

I will stick with my assertion that you shouldn't buy two of the same size rail, as explained in the thread.

The whole rail question is one where your particular situation determines what's best for you.

Ned

 

[bruegf]

I'd go w/ longer rail if you've got a place to store it.  Joining rails is not difficult, but I found a single rail far more convenient.  Not a bit sorry that I spent the money for it.

Fred

 

[Steve Jones]

Also consider the rail with holes for 32mm shelf pins - just in case you might later want to go in that direction, it might later save you buying a third rail just to get the holes

 

[butzla]

Hi Gary and welcome!  If you do a lot of travel, then 2  55" rails make more sense.  Festool makes a nifty travel bag that they will fit into when broken down.  But setting them up repetitively could be a pain in the arse.  If you are keeping it in your shop, go with 1 long rail and use the 55" rail for cross cutting.  I have a 55 and a 106".  However, if I had to do it again,  I would get the 118"  The extra length would be nice to have for beginning and ending a rip cut.  As it is now, the saw hangs off the rail both sides by about half the saw base length. 

 

[John Stevens]

I agree with everything "sToolman" wrote, especially this:

I have a 55 and a 106".  However, if I had to do it again,  I would get the 118"  The extra length would be nice to have for beginning and ending a rip cut.

The guide rails are very straight, and because of the non-slip surface on the underside and their ability to be clamped to a work piece, the "back edge" comes in handy for marking, for use with a non-Festool jigsaw or router, or to register a biscuit joiner or Domino.  In addition to the 1400 (55") and 2700 (106"), I have the 800mm (32") and the short and long perforated rails for the hole-boring system (1080mm/42" and 2400mm/95").  Yeah, I have six guide rails, and I don't use them to make stuff for sale  No regrets in buying any of them, except I wish I'd gotten the 3000 (118") instead of the 2700 (106").  It might seem excessive, but the more you use them, the more you'll want to use them (especially if you also use them for stuff other than sawing).  Hope this helps.

Regards,

John

 

[butzla]

I have the 800mm (32")

Regards,

John

John,  You reminded me that I also have a 32" rail....well it is now.  It once was a 55" rail that had a tragic run-in with my TS75 during a plunge-bevel cut.  (I wanted to cry when it happened).  I cut it down on my sliding compound but I find the shorter length very handy!

 

[Fred West]

Gary, I cannot add anymore than these other fellers have said to you other than welcome to the slippery slope and if you think the saws are somrthing wait until you get to the sanders. ;D Fred

 

[poto]

Gary - welcome to the slippery slope. It's particularly slippery today - the last day before the dreaded price increase.

I think you're going to want an MFT...

 

[Greg_R]

I have the 55" and the 118".  For absolute 4x8 breakdown perfection I'd use the 75" and the 118" (plenty of room to start and stop the cut, etc.).  For a typical built-in project I'm going to have 1-2 tall / long pieces from each board.  I'll rip these off first with the long rail and then the 55" rail has plenty of start / stop room for the crosscuts.

I agree that the entire concept of moving the tool through the wood vs. the wood through the tool has raised a lot of interesting questions about how we work in small shops.  By not having to move the wood you have just gained 2x the space you needed for the same operation on the old table saw.

 

[GaryFL08]

Thanks for all of the great input guys.  Lots a great suggestions. I didnt think I wanted to spend what a 106"+ rail was going to cost, but the more I kicked it around in my head and thought about what it will cost tomorrow (the great motivator), I decided to go for it.  I bought the 106" at Woodcraft today (only because I had a nice Woodcraft GC - future purchases will be from Bob).  SToolman, I just now read your post on the 118" (after I just came from the shop and tore open the crate on the 106").  The 106 actuall fits nicely in the corner vertically, but now I'm wondering if I should take it back and swap it....of course that wouldnt be until tomorrow, and I guess they'd hit me on the price increase.  I couldnt figure out before why you would need 118"...now I get it.  Think its worth the hassle & extra cost?  My next one would be the 32"...but I can stomach that, even at the new price...

I see what you mean...as I went in to get the rail today - Rotex, Domino & Triton.....man...keep me away! I refuse to even read anything about the Kapex...  ALTHOUGH...I can definitely see an MFT in my future.  If I had the cash, I'd get the 1080 now, as it was sitting there in a nice box...but I think I'll be pushed to get the MFT3.

 

[Thad]

The 106 actuall fits nicely in the corner vertically, but now I'm wondering if I should take it back and swap it....of course that wouldnt be until tomorrow, and I guess they'd hit me on the price increase.  I couldnt figure out before why you would need 118"...now I get it.  Think its worth the hassle & extra cost?  My next one would be the 32"...but I can stomach that, even at the new price...

Something else to keep in mind - the 118" will let you cut a 4x8 sheet diagonally; the 106" is too short for that.  I store my 118" horizontally along the wall on 3 small brackets so it's out of the way.

Thad

 

[bruegf]

I've not needed the 118" so far.  The 106" works well for an 8' sheet.  If I ever need more I'll just join with one of my short rails.

Fred

 

[GaryFL08]

True...I guess for the times that I may need to cut on the diagonal or need the additional length, I can join the 55 or 32.  If I were to get it now it...it'd be like another $60 for the 118.  I guess I'll stick with it...

 

[Dan Clark]

Thanks for all of the great input guys.  Lots a great suggestions. I didnt think I wanted to spend what a 106"+ rail was going to cost, but the more I kicked it around in my head and thought about what it will cost tomorrow (the great motivator), I decided to go for it.  I bought the 106" at Woodcraft today (only because I had a nice Woodcraft GC - future purchases will be from Bob).  SToolman, I just now read your post on the 118" (after I just came from the shop and tore open the crate on the 106").  The 106 actuall fits nicely in the corner vertically, but now I'm wondering if I should take it back and swap it....of course that wouldnt be until tomorrow, and I guess they'd hit me on the price increase.  I couldnt figure out before why you would need 118"...now I get it.  Think its worth the hassle & extra cost?  My next one would be the 32"...but I can stomach that, even at the new price...

I see what you mean...as I went in to get the rail today - Rotex, Domino & Triton.....man...keep me away! I refuse to even read anything about the Kapex...  ALTHOUGH...I can definitely see an MFT in my future.  If I had the cash, I'd get the 1080 now, as it was sitting there in a nice box...but I think I'll be pushed to get the MFT3.

Gary,

See, it's like this...  When you first get Festool tools, you get REALLY excited.  You lose control.  You're like a kid in a candy shop.    However...

After a while, when you get some Festool board-feet under your belt (so to speak), you will learn to control those urges.  The siren call of the Festool loses it's urgency. 

Now take me, for example...  I thought about the April 1 price increase.  Being a mature Festoolian, I controlllllled my urges.  I clamped down on that passion!  I got a firm grasp on the realities of my situation.  I did NOT buy everything in sight (like you newbies would).  NO, I was under control!!!

So, I only ordered a 3000mm guide rail.  And a nice LS130.  Of course, was only rational that I order an RTS400 too because it shares the same paper as the LS130.  And, it would be stupid not to take advantage of the  lower prices, so I bought six accessories for the LS130. (Makes sense to you, doesn't it!?!)  And it would have been REALLY dumb not to buy some sandpaper for my new sanders and my current Rotex, so I limited myself to 23 boxes of sandpaper.  Being the rational sort, I also got a Sys2 to store the sandpaper. 

See...  This is how a mature, rational, EXPERIENCED Festoolian handles the slippery slope.    Learn from your elders and enjoy the slide... uhm... experience.  With lots of practice, you too can control the decent. 

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. And of course, I wait patiently for my new tools.  Drool...  Slobber...  ;D ;D ;D  (But I'm in control!)

 

[nickao]

That's so funny Dan!

 

[Les]

Thanks for all of the great input guys.  Lots a great suggestions. I didnt think I wanted to spend what a 106"+ rail was going to cost, but the more I kicked it around in my head and thought about what it will cost tomorrow (the great motivator), I decided to go for it.  I bought the 106" at Woodcraft today (only because I had a nice Woodcraft GC - future purchases will be from Bob).  SToolman, I just now read your post on the 118" (after I just came from the shop and tore open the crate on the 106").  The 106 actuall fits nicely in the corner vertically, but now I'm wondering if I should take it back and swap it....of course that wouldnt be until tomorrow, and I guess they'd hit me on the price increase.  I couldnt figure out before why you would need 118"...now I get it.  Think its worth the hassle & extra cost?  My next one would be the 32"...but I can stomach that, even at the new price...

I see what you mean...as I went in to get the rail today - Rotex, Domino & Triton.....man...keep me away! I refuse to even read anything about the Kapex...  ALTHOUGH...I can definitely see an MFT in my future.  If I had the cash, I'd get the 1080 now, as it was sitting there in a nice box...but I think I'll be pushed to get the MFT3.

In order to keep my rails from warping, I hang them. I'm sure that is what the holes are for. They will take a "set" if stored on end.

 

[semenza]

The 106 actuall fits nicely in the corner vertically, but now I'm wondering if I should take it back and swap it....of course that wouldnt be until tomorrow, and I guess they'd hit me on the price increase.  I couldnt figure out before why you would need 118"...now I get it.  Think its worth the hassle & extra cost?  My next one would be the 32"...but I can stomach that, even at the new price...

Something else to keep in mind - the 118" will let you cut a 4x8 sheet diagonally; the 106" is too short for that.  I store my 118" horizontally along the wall on 3 small brackets so it's out of the way.

Thad

HI,

        Another plus I found to the 118" is that it makes it a bit easier to straight line rip boards that are only rough cut to 8'. In other words they are a little or than 8'.  But the 106" will do the job.

Seth