First Festool tool recomendations for new homeowners shop

[Stone Message]

I have just one MFT3 and it was one of my early Festool purchases. I really like it for jig work and it is the ideal platform for dog work (not canine but whichever bench dogs take your fancy). I can get the MFT3, CT26 and about 6 systainers comfortably in the back of my Toyota Yaris and so its portability is a major feature - I would be quite happy to see the Yaris run over a cliff (as long as nobody gets hurt).

Peter

 

[Stone Message]

The router video is now complete, it is up on YouTube and I have created a FOG thread for it.

Here is the thread:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/whick-festool-router-video/msg363162/?topicseen#msg363162

Peter

 

[Birdhunter]

My list:

1. Sawstop Industrial or Profesional table saw with high volume dust extraction.
2. Powermatic 8" helical jointer, Powermatic helical planer, Powermatic 14" bandsaw, Powermatic drill press.
3. Two MFTs with extension for a heavy vise.
4. TS55 with rail kit for MFT.
5. Domino700 with extra cutters and tenons and vacuum.
6. Festool 1400 router
7. Porter Cable motor-only built into homemade router table.
8. Assortment of Bessy clamps.
9. Festool T18 drill kit and CSX drill kit.

That would be a good start for serious home rehab.

 

[rizzoa13]

I'm going to put in a vote for a CT 36 AC if you plan to do any drywall work. I am extremely OCD with the drywall in my house and skim all my walls and use a recon rts400 to knock it down between coats. I love being able to clean up the wall between coats and not have white eyelashes afterwards  [eek] but it does do a number on my bags and filters so I wish I had the 36AC.

I'll also throw in a vote for the TS 75. I've found that while my 55 can handle most things i end up wanting more depth on bevel cuts pretty often and then I'm pretty much just screwed. Also I'm pretty sure the 75 has a broader range of blades for cutting different materials ie light gauge steel, acrylics and plastic? Not 100% on that maybe someone else can chime in.

I'm of the mind that I want my tools to cover the entire range of my needs and those are 2 options that will allow you to do more and really not affect your day to day use.

 

[Wood Hog]

Couldn't agree more the TS55 v TS75 debate seems like it will never end. I recently got into festool and bought the TS55, it cuts great, but the I started looking across my shop at 800 board ft of 2" thick Americain black walnut that I'd had cut 5 years ago, and thought I'm going to need to straight line cut that lot up at some point. So returned it for the TS75. I used the TS75 for the first time yesterday, it's fabulous , I'm not sure why people get so concerned about the weight. Its not as though your lifting it while its cutting, your sliding it. My 5 year old could push it with his pinky finger (if I'd let him.)
As yet I don't have the MFT3 table which is next on my list, I hope it's not too heavy for that.
As far as sanders my dream team is the EST 150/3 and the RO150 and for detail work the RO90. I have the CT 26 which works superbly well I've added an onida dust cyclone in between which means I save on festool bags.

Peter, great video, as a expat living in the states it's so nice to hear the word "spanner" makes me home sick ha ha. I was leaning toward the OF 1400 but after watching your video I realized the only time I use my current router is for draw dovetails in 13mm solid wood so I don't need the power of the OF 1400,  I have a 3 hp shaper table when I need to remove large amounts of wood in a hurry I think I'll now consider the OF1010. I hope your up coming OF 1010 video shows it being used on a dovetail jig?  Just a thought.
Cheers.

 

[adugas]

First, [welcome] to the FOG! You'll get lots of good advice here, and you'll also find that we are MORE than happy to help you spend your money!

[big grin]

I will be buying at least 1 and maybe 2 MFT tables as work spaces so if that impacts things. Also these tools will not be moved much and will generally live in our basement. 

Steve Bace (Festool Trainer) said at a demo I attended that the 'ideal number' of MFT's is THREE! Unfortunately I don't remember the exact reasons he gave or I'd post them here. Maybe I can find a reference, or someone else will post the answer here.

Having just attended the Cabinet course in vegas with Steve as the trainer. The reason for the 3 tables was 2 tables are joined together one serves as outfeed support. The 3rd table is to the side for clamping and assmebly, the reason for this separate assembly table is you dont have to move the rail and fence on the cutting MFT/3 you can leave it set up. We found this beneficial in class encase we just need to trim a little bit it was done quickly and then return to assemble. Another tip for the MFT was to use multiply flag stops and use the fence as a story stick so speak. when making a few of the same size cabinets this is a big time saver.
Currently i have one MFT/# and the I made the PAulk work bench for my needs.

Just my  [2cents]

Seems you have your tools selected wisely. I agree with your kapex and CT26, MFT/3 and TS55/75 and the OF 1400. Only thing i would suggest is the is the addition of the domino 500 and a second CT26 combo for "savings"  [cool]. Reason for that is you mention your Kapex is going to be stationary and assuming set up next the MFT/3 you could leave everything set up in one area. Then when working else where in the house take the second CT26 with you and use with various other tools. Reason for 2 of the same vacuum is you will only need to stock one size replacemnt bag.  You find a ton of uses for the domino with in the household but if its not on the top of the list I would get a Rotex RO 125 sander and vacuum combo, everyone needs a sander so might as get a multipurpose one that not to big or to small and can tackle most jobs.

Again just  [2cents] 

Cheers and happy shopping

 

[peter halle]

1. To save money on new tools it looks like the only option is to buy package deals (I am thinking about both saw+mft table & kapex+dust extractor). Is there any other way to save money on new Festool tools? And what are the opinions about buying used tools if you have the money to buy new but are just a cheep sob.

The package deals do save you money if you use them.  Used tools tend to hold their value well so deals on Craigslist or even eBay are an option to be closely looked at.  Sometimes it makes more sense to buy new.  Every now and then Festool will have a reconditioned sale but the most recent one ended shortly ago.  I would venture a guess that it takes a long time to accumulate the number of tools that they sold during this past sale, so that along with some other things would make it unlikely that you will see another one any time soon.

2. I need a miter saw. So I need a Kapex. I didn't like how the saw runs into the Miterfast miter gauge. Are they going to update the Kapex in the near future (2015). I can wait for 6 months or even a year if a new Kapex version is on the way. Also if money is no option which is better the Kapex UG cart or MFT/3 Kapex table. I will be buying at least 1 and maybe 2 MFT tables as work spaces so if that impacts things. Also these tools will not be moved much and will generally live in our basement.

Nothing has been mentioned about a new version of the Kapex coming out.  Usually Europe gets a new tool 9 months to a year earlier than North America does, so I wouldn't worry about instant outdatedness.  The Kapex table allows you to have another (albeit lower) work surface for clamping needs also. If you add a Systainer one to the top then you are at the same height as a regular MFT so you can have an extension for long boards on your MFT.  The UG stands out for portability and quick setup.

3. What size vacuum (dust extractor) do people recommend for pairing it with the Kapex and tracksaw (TS55 or TS75)? I was kinda leaning toward the CT36 just because it was in the middle (The Goldilocks Theorem) but if the CT48 is better then let me know. Is the larger model just hold more material or are there hidden advantages?

This is a common question with no right or wrong answers.  The suction is basically the same across the entire platform.  The storage capacity and footprint (primarily height for most of the range) is different.  Personally I think that you should go smaller because you will be using this for all sorts of tasks inside the house and moving the big models up stairs is not the most enjoyable activity.  My vote would be CT-26 max.

4. I am going to need a track saw. I am a big-ish guy 6'2" and so the weight of the TS-75 is not an issue. In an old house like this there is a lot of real wood, so would the TS-75 be better at cutting hardwoods? Which saw do people prefer and why? The TS-55 or TS-75?

My guess is that Festool sells 4 times or more TS-55's versus the 75's.  I only have the 55 but have used the 75 a few times.  In your situation, if you really envision yourself doing solid lumber work over 1 1/2 inches thick often, then go with the 75.

5. Router question. I like the big OF2200 router, it was well designed but heavy. I want to buy a Leigh D4R dovetail jig and I want to use the router for that in addition to general home work. Would the OF1400 be better for this dovetail side job? Also if I understand the OF2200 won't fit the router table which was a really nicely made piece I may someday want to add. So any options on routers?   

The 1400 and the 1010 both will work for the D4R (I've never used the D4R) but you might have to purchase a different insert for the 1010 base due to centering issues I understand.  The 1010 is shorter so that helps with the ergonomics and it also accepts the 8mm shanks that are available from Leigh.  Peter Parfittt just posted a new video comparing the routers and started a thread here by the way.

The 1010 has a ton of accessories available for it that allows for maximum flexibility within its horsepower class.  The 1400 is a step up in features and power and allows the use of 1/2 shank bits.  The 2200 is a thoroughbred racehorse.  Wait on the 2200 until you need one.  Personally I went with the 1400 years ago and have never regretted my purchase.

The 2200 will fit the CMS and is used all over the world in that configuration.  Its use in combination with the CMS here in North America is not supported by Festool and may cause warranty issues - even though the parts to mount the 2200 have been included with the CMS here since its introduction.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

OK so Ill give my 2 shillings worth,

As you  know festool is a system. The foundation of the system is the  MFT, CT and TS. Everything else is built up those 3 items. My suggestion is buy those 3 items then buy as you need, You will need some of the clamps that go along with the MFT.
You will also need a assortment of guide rails. I suggest to start out with 2 1400 holey rails. The reason for the holey rails will become apparent asa you get more into the festool system.
Yes you will need a router table. I suggest the CMS GE unit with a 1010 router. The 1010 can do just about everything you will need a router to do at this stage in your shop .  Though it only uses 1/4 & 8mm shaft bits it is a very versitile router that can be used in a lot of varied applications with festool accessories.

Oh I have 2 MFTs When I return to the states I plan on either building a Ron Paulk style worrk table or another MFT. I can see using 3 will heelp quite a bit.

 

[Stone Message]

...
Peter, great video, as a expat living in the states it's so nice to hear the word "spanner" makes me home sick ha ha. I was leaning toward the OF 1400 but after watching your video I realized the only time I use my current router is for draw dovetails in 13mm solid wood so I don't need the power of the OF 1400,  I have a 3 hp shaper table when I need to remove large amounts of wood in a hurry I think I'll now consider the OF1010. I hope your up coming OF 1010 video shows it being used on a dovetail jig?  Just a thought.
Cheers.

Yes dovetailing will be in the video - I have the guide bush adapter (Leigh 704R) and the guide bush itself all ready to go.

Cheers.

Peter

 

[Sparktrician]

5. Router question. I like the big OF2200 router, it was well designed but heavy. I want to buy a Leigh D4R dovetail jig and I want to use the router for that in addition to general home work. Would the OF1400 be better for this dovetail side job? Also if I understand the OF2200 won't fit the router table which was a really nicely made piece I may someday want to add. So any options on routers?   

The 1400 and the 1010 both will work for the D4R (I've never used the D4R) but you might have to purchase a different insert for the 1010 base due to centering issues I understand.  The 1010 is shorter so that helps with the ergonomics and it also accepts the 8mm shanks that are available from Leigh.  Peter Parfittt just posted a new video comparing the routers and started a thread here by the way.

The 1010 has a ton of accessories available for it that allows for maximum flexibility within its horsepower class.  The 1400 is a step up in features and power and allows the use of 1/2 shank bits.  The 2200 is a thoroughbred racehorse.  Wait on the 2200 until you need one.  Personally I went with the 1400 years ago and have never regretted my purchase.

The 2200 will fit the CMS and is used all over the world in that configuration.  Its use in combination with the CMS here in North America is not supported by Festool and may cause warranty issues - even though the parts to mount the 2200 have been included with the CMS here since its introduction.

Peter

The OF 2200 router will fit the CMS without any problem, and the CMS comes with all the parts necessary to make it work, as Peter noted.  The one issue is the standard power switch that comes with the CMS.  It is rated to 13.5 amps, but the OF 2200 can draw up to 20 amps under full load.  This is why Festool will not support the use of the OF 2200 in the CMS in North America.  There are work-arounds to this problem that are electrically safe, but not approved by Festool.  As for using the OF 2200 for doing dovetails, this would be like using a .300 Winchester Magnum to swat a fly.  It would get old, and very fast.  The OF 1010 is ideal for doing dovetails due to its light weight.  It will handle the 8mm shank bits that come with Leigh dovetail jigs, and the guide bushings are capable of being centered on a mandrel when used with the Leigh 704R guide bushing adapter.  The standard Festool adapter fits too tightly to allow adjustment. 

 

[RKA]

I think Festool offers two sizes of tracksaws for a reason.  I haven't used the 75, but I think you may end up with tear out on the offcuts when cutting shallow material if the blade can't be fully plunged so it's captured by the zero clearance piece on the right side of the blade (maybe someone can confirm).  Also, you need more track on either end of your workpiece to accommodate the larger base on the 75.  In most cases that's not a big deal, but the holey rail isn't available in 75".  Also, the track included with the MFT is short as well, so your cross cutting capacity is theoretically reduced with the 75 on the MFT.  A 55 seems a little more versatile in general, but certainly, if you require the depth of cut the 75 offers, that's the way to go.  Two tools for a reason.  An alternative is a Mafell MT55c, which has a 1400 watt motor.  Only reason I mention that is because you seemed to be concerned about cutting hardwood.  Obviously it doesn't have the depth of a 75, so if depth is what you need....  Otherwise it's a fine saw and it has channels on the base so it can be used with the Festool tracks.  The only nuisance is you give up the plug it connection with this saw, and if you're using a boom arm of some sort, you have to tie back the plug it cable on the boom arm and secure the power cable on the Mafell saw.  When you're constantly switching between tools, that can become a huge hassle, but if your workflow allows you to do all your saw cuts first, then move onto the next task, it's not too bad.  The other downside with Mafell is price...apples to apples, 30%+ more expensive, no free shipping, no 30 day return and shorter warranty compared with Festool.  And while I haven't heard of any bad experiences with Mafell service, they have a single dealer in NA where Festool has a much larger footprint here.  I would expect a faster turn around on repairs and better availability of parts from Festool as a result.  Things to think about.  Personally I ended up with Mafell, but only due to a recall and availability issue on the Festool saws.  I would have been perfectly content with a working Festool saw if that was an option at the time. 

Peter's suggestion for the 1010 with the Leigh jig is spot on.  The 1400 is a little larger and heavier than it needs to be for that task.  If we had a better selection of 8mm bits in NA, the 1010 would be a general purpose router.  Unfortunately, 1/2" is the standard for larger bits here which makes a strong case for the 1400. 

My view on craigslist after having trying for many months...people ask too much for their used tools.  In many cases, so much that I won't even make the initial call to negotiate as it seems they are a bit unreasonable in their expectations.  For not much more, I get a 30 day no questions return policy and a full 3 years warranty.  After months of looking for a used Kapex, I contacted one seller and offered a firm 30% off list.  We were $50 apart and just couldn't agree on the final price.  I let it go and bought a new one, he continued to advertise for many months after that negotiation.  It may have helped if I was standing in front of him with cash rather than negotiating via email, but that involves a 2 hour round trip drive with no guarantee of a prize.  That's how it goes with CL.  The new Kapex was dropped off at my door.  Craigslist is great if you have time on your hands and are willing to wait for your deal of a lifetime.  If you want to outfit your shop with something specific and want to get on with things, it may not be worth your time. 

Good luck with the purchases!  Lots of right answers in this thread, and in the end it depends on what's important to you.  Soak it all in, make your decision and don't look back.  You'll enjoy every minute using these tools. 

 

[ear3]

I've only used the CMS at a dealer demo, so my observations are not backed up by real world usage.  But...I'm wondering about the advisability of recommending the CMS in a home shop environment, where portability is not an issue.  My impression of the CMS is that it is wanting for stability, due to the constraints of making it portable -- not that it threatens to tip over, but on simple operations like raising the bit height, the table rocks noticeably.  That doesn't matter so much if you're just routing small pieces.  But if you are milling, say, extended lengths of crown moulding, wouldn't this lack of stability create some problems?  I've also read many comments on the forum about thee fence being found wanting.

Couple this with the high cost of the table and the fact that it's not rated for use with the 2200 in NA (not that you couldn't use the 2200, but if there were ever any problems you would have voided the warranty), for my money I would go with a sturdier cabinet type router table setup with a dedicated powerful motor + router lift (like a PC 3 1/4 motor that a previous commenter suggested), or a router with integrated above the table adjustment, like the Triton (which I have and love to death).  All of this would still probably come in under the cost of the deluxe CMS setup.   

OK so Ill give my 2 shillings worth,

As you  know festool is a system. The foundation of the system is the  MFT, CT and TS. Everything else is built up those 3 items. My suggestion is buy those 3 items then buy as you need, You will need some of the clamps that go along with the MFT.
You will also need a assortment of guide rails. I suggest to start out with 2 1400 holey rails. The reason for the holey rails will become apparent asa you get more into the festool system.
Yes you will need a router table. I suggest the CMS GE unit with a 1010 router. The 1010 can do just about everything you will need a router to do at this stage in your shop .  Though it only uses 1/4 & 8mm shaft bits it is a very versitile router that can be used in a lot of varied applications with festool accessories.

Oh I have 2 MFTs When I return to the states I plan on either building a Ron Paulk style worrk table or another MFT. I can see using 3 will heelp quite a bit.

 

[ear3]

Totally agree.  One of the big reasons I've been converting my shop over to Festool, other than the actual performance of the tools, is the NQA return policy and 3 yr. warranty.  My first CT was a MIDI, but after a couple of weeks I realized the CT26 would be better for the job I was going to be on.  So I simply went to the dealer and swapped it out, paying the difference.  The relationship I've built with my local dealer, where I can go in and ask any question about usage or get immediate trouble shooting, is also incredibly valuable.  Finally, tools will inevitably have problems, even Festool, so having the security of knowing you are covered for three years is awesome.  Thus far I've only had an issue that required return and repair with the Carvex, but the process was easy and fast, with less than 2 weeks turn around time.

All of this is to say that you sacrifice some essential components of the Festool experience when you buy used. 

My view on craigslist after having trying for many months...people ask too much for their used tools.  In many cases, so much that I won't even make the initial call to negotiate as it seems they are a bit unreasonable in their expectations.  For not much more, I get a 30 day no questions return policy and a full 3 years warranty.  After months of looking for a used Kapex, I contacted one seller and offered a firm 30% off list.  We were $50 apart and just couldn't agree on the final price.  I let it go and bought a new one, he continued to advertise for many months after that negotiation.  It may have helped if I was standing in front of him with cash rather than negotiating via email, but that involves a 2 hour round trip drive with no guarantee of a prize.  That's how it goes with CL.  The new Kapex was dropped off at my door.  Craigslist is great if you have time on your hands and are willing to wait for your deal of a lifetime.  If you want to outfit your shop with something specific and want to get on with things, it may not be worth your time. 

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

That is mearly a spot to store and transport the angle finder.  I tossed mine somewhere in my shop, not sure where it is.  Probably beside all the mft fence and rail brackets I chucked in a corner.

 

[tiralie]

Steve Bace (Festool Trainer) said at a demo I attended that the 'ideal number' of MFT's is THREE! Unfortunately I don't remember the exact reasons he gave or I'd post them here.

Not sure what Steve Bace said, but three MFT's are the minimum to support sheet goods.
The MFT's can be reconfigured to support any type of work requirement.
I have built numerous "portable" tables and supports for working on and hated them all. The MFT's solved a lot of problems for me.

I have 3 full size MFT's, 4 including the kapex/MFT and they get used a lot.

They are portable.
They don't take a lot of space when folded up.
They support a lot of weight
They can hold and support and clamp any shape.
They make working safer.

In some cases I could have used a 4th full size MFT.

Even with those MFT's I still use multiple home made and commercial aluminum saw horses.
If you don't need a sturdy portable work table there are many other solutions.
Tim

 

[Iceclimber]

First i think it is worth suggesting to slow down on your purchases and purchase only what you need for your next project. By all means if you need all these tools at once for that first project buy them as making due without the proper tools results in shotty work. Buying tools can be fun and although buying them all at once seems like a ton if fun buying them over a period if time can be just as enjoyable. Especially if you have find or tool budget. Tapping that out then being left wanting or needing a tool for a task is no fun..

I think the TS 75 is a no brainer. The whole argument of it being heavy is silly. Its not heavy and if it was it is sliding in a rai. Rocket science people sure maybe the cutting angles with it is a bit more difficult "although it has yet to offer me a problem" and the footprint a bit larger eating up slightly more rail. The fact is those are very minor issues imop. Again as many have said you have to weigh the options yourself. Sure you can buy one and return it but i know that seems wasteful to me so i try and buy the tool that is going to stay with me the first time. Imop the 75 is a no brainer. Imget splinter free cuts on cabinet grade plywood with a stock blade that has ripped miles of sheet goods. Yes i cut slow but it beats buying another $125 finish blade. Also get the long rail when you buy the saw or a short holey rail. I personally get sick of shuffling stuff around and connecting and disconnecting rail gets annoying real quick. It takes time and even on your own home you end up under the guy at times.

I will second the CT 36 is really really heavy when it gets half full and above. I would suggest a CT36 and a Midi. When i go on sight i cant even begin to imagine stuffing a CT36 into my truck not to mention hauling it up and down stairs. Even at home just moving it around the shop its a shoulder breaker when full. The CT 26 is not much smaller. I think having the size of the CT 36 as a stationary CT is great because even it with regular use will fill up quicker than you would like. Im not keen on the Dust Deputy setup because i do move my CT around and moving the Dust Deputy also would get old quick. Putting it on a cart would make moving it around tight corners cumbersome. Plus I think the whole non anti static thing voids festool warranty and for the premium price we pay for our Festools I'm not willing to mess with my Warranty.

Get the Kapex UG cart of you get the Kapex. Imop you could build one as i did and many do but they are not nearly half as mobile as the UG and wings. By the time you are done you will spend a fair amount of money building one. Sure it will be cost a bit less but will you really have all that mobility the UG offers and will it really be as nice with regard to accuracy and ease of use? Sure the tables and the wings are  a option but imop the tables are heavy. I find i rarely bring them on sight unless i am setting up for a a number of days in a row. Otherwise i bring my sawhorses and 2x4 and plywood cut table that way i have tables I'm also willing to destroy and use as sheet goods cut tables. My opinion could have something to do with having both my MFT tables setup to a CMS VL in my shop on a not so level floor and not wanting to move it all. Imop though the MFT tables are really heavy and i for one don't like moving them around. Sure you can move them with relative ease but i would hardly call them light. I suppose if i could afford to purchase one that was dedicated to sitting in the back of my truck i might feel different?

Don't get the 2200 for dovetails. Get the 1400 or 1010....

Im on the fence with the CMS after having owned it for a couple months. Don't get me wrong its really really nice but the fence is a POS imop. And the fact that in the USA i cant use the 2200 under warranty is just nuts! For the premium price the only thing premium it offers over the competition is its mobility and fit and finish minus the fence "a pretty integral part" of a router table if you ask me

I love my Festools "really i do" but dont get to caught up in the hype or drink to much of the coolaid. Many of them are great "like great" i could not live without them. Many of them are just another tool.

Get some sanders they will blow your mind. I just finished about 15 BF of birdseye maple with my RO 90 and DTS400 and i cant believe how nice the project came out. I have been working in the trades for nearly 20 years and much of that time has been spent sanding. The work environment coupled with the quality of work the Festool sanders can create in skilled hands is unreal. No dips, high spots, waves, swirl marks, digs or any of that stuff and very very little if any dust!

 

[tiralie]

I looked at the extensions and they seem kinda narrow for cutting crown molding (something I see a lot of in my future). I may just build my own extensions using the Crown Stop (#494369) that are wider and cheaper.  [smile]

They are lite and that's the point. I don't have them, but I am fairly certain you can support fairly large crown with those extensions.

So for that reason I am leaning toward the CT26 to make moving it around easier.

It gets heavy when that bag is full. I was surprised. The Onedia UDD really helps extend the bag, particularly when routing.

So if you did not have a table saw would you want the TS-75 for sure? I know that the table saw is kind of indispensable but for the time being I am going to start with one track saw and see how it goes, the question is just which one.

No. The TS 75 solves some very specific problems e.g. cutting bevels on 1.5-2" stock that is too unwieldy to move to the table saw or slider.
Lots of people will argue that a table saw is not required but it does make ripping narrow and thin stock etc. a lot easier/faster than setting up the TS and hold downs so the stock doesn't move around.

Tim

 

[Iceclimber]

If you do any real work with time and production in mind you will find yourself wanting for at least some kind of table saw even if just a contractor saw. At least for me the Track saw does mot solve my need for a dedicated table saw at times. Sure i can do much of what i would do on a table saw with my track saw but as the above poster said it is hardly as quick and at times accurate...

 

[semenza]

Hi schtumpig,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

      Lots of good advice. You just need to sort it out for your situation. My brief recommendations --------------

  1400 Router. Big enough but small enough.

  TS75. I normally would say TS55 but you are likely to run into cuts that need the depth and power. Get the Fine blade too.

  MFT/3.  A great versatile and portable workbench. Get one and set up a cutting table for sheet goods and long boards.

  CT36 or 48 (maybe).  If not going with the DD. If going with the DD then CT26. BUT keep in mind the DD will really cut down portability.

  RO150 and or RO90. A Rotex can be very useful  in remodeling.

  CT Midi or Mini. Once you get these tools you will want to be using them in other locations beside the basement shop. Especially for remodel sanding. You will find it a real nuisance and work slow down to unhook and haul the vac back and forth to the basement. You will end up wanting to make a cut and then take it to the work location and then sand and then go make a cut and so on. Especially if you go with the DD ........ you will want a portable vac.

Seth

 

[Dan Clark]

Schtumpig,

Your initial list is excellent.  The MFT/CT/TS55 (older versions) were my first Festools.  When I was remodeling my master bath (10' X 13'), my shop was IN the bathroom.  And that includes the CT22 WITH the boom arm.  There are some bathroom pics in this boom arm review on talkFestool: Boom Arm Review.  It's amazing how fast you can work when you don't have to run up and down stairs to your shop.

Since then, I've added the OF1400, five Festool sanders, a bunch of guide rails, Domino, HL850, Kapex, and a CT26.    The OF1400 is excellent.  For finish carpentry, the Kapex is the best miter saw available (add zero clearance plates and a Tenryu finish blade).  The HL850 made planing a bunch of joists coplaner quite easy. 

My CT22 is now my portable vac and the CT26 with the boom arm is my "shop" vac.  They are core to almost everything I do.  Besides providing dust collection for my Festool tools, they also provide very good to excellent dust collection for my Triton router (router table), Dewalt thickness planer, Laguna band saw, Dewalt table saw, hand sanders, and Kreg jig.  FYI, Fein Hose Adapter will connect the D27 hose to almost anything.  I have four, including one in the Makita belt sander box and one in the Kreg box.

For the TS55 vs 75, that's a tough decision.  The TS55 is the best option for cutting ply and most solid wood up to about 5/4.  It will cut 7/4 at 90 degrees, but not on a bevel.  For thicker hardwoods, you'll want to use to use the 12 or 28 tooth blades.  IMO, the TS55 is the best overall option, unless you will be cutting a lot of thicker material, especially hardwoods.  Then the TS75 is probably the best option.

One philosophical point... While I agree with the concept that quality work is mostly the skills and knowledge of the woodworker, the problem is how to get skilled and knowledgeable?  We can study books and videos, but skills and knowledge come mostly from doing - learning on the job.  When a relative beginner encounters a problem, the question is: What caused the problem - the tools or the person?  With poor quality tools, it's difficult to know.  With good quality tools, you can be pretty sure who (not what) caused the problem. [cool]  IMO, Festool tools are MORE important for us folks who aren't expert craftsman. 

A final point... Ask yourself: Why so much passion about Festool tools?  IMO, it's because they work and keep working, and every day we use them, they tell us "You made a damn-fine buying decision!".  The cost fades quickly, but the quality keeps talkin' to us.

Good luck with your decisions.

Regards,

Dan.