If you want to make your own wings, here are some that may work:
http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/extension_wings.html
http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/extension_wings.html
First Festool tool recomendations for new homeowners shop
- Thread starter schtumpig
- Start date
schtumpig
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- Jan 2, 2014
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- 43
And the foolishness continues...
So I bought a CT-26 E second hand but unused on Craigslist. I wanted the CT-36 AC but this particular 'dust extractor' was 50% of the cost of a new CT-36 AC so I couldn't justify that much money just to do some do-it-yourself drywall sanding. Also with a tool this nice I think I would always use a bag so the bag-less feature of the CT-36 AC would not get used much. Unfortunately this vac does not come with the 36mm hose so I have to find one, if anyone wants to sell me one PM me. But even if I got the 36mm hose I would still need a 36mm to 27mm adapter and those run $50. So I am the proud owner of a second hand CT-26 E... [smile] with my OF-1400 sitting on top.
So my list was:
-Worktable:MFT/3
-Router:OF1400
-Vacuum:CT-26
-Track Saw: TS-55 or TS-75
-Miter Saw: Kapex
-Something to put the miter saw on
I went to my local dealer to check out the Kapex and the Dewalt 12" sliding compound miter saw in my own personal head-to-head shootout. The precision of the Kapex just won me over. It is a scalpel compared to the Dewalt cleaver. Then one of the sales guys told me that they are going to have a 10% sale of the Kapex and accessories in February so that settled it. The next purchase is a Kapex...... in February. As far as where to mount it I am still thinking about the MFT/3 Kapex especially because with 2 regular MFT/3's you could have one on each side to use as feed area when you need it essentially creating a temporary miter station. But someone mentioned that the regular MFT/3 don't work very well as feed/support platforms next to the Kapex. If anyone is using this configuration let me know. The other option that I think looks amazing is this Dewalt miter Stand (DWX725B I think) painted in Festool green by Grasshopper. It looks great! And costs only $107 + paint (by the way if anyone know the paint brand and color let me know)
Thanks Dan! And thank you everyone again for your advice. I love this forum it really helps when you are just getting into carpentry and Festool.
So I bought a CT-26 E second hand but unused on Craigslist. I wanted the CT-36 AC but this particular 'dust extractor' was 50% of the cost of a new CT-36 AC so I couldn't justify that much money just to do some do-it-yourself drywall sanding. Also with a tool this nice I think I would always use a bag so the bag-less feature of the CT-36 AC would not get used much. Unfortunately this vac does not come with the 36mm hose so I have to find one, if anyone wants to sell me one PM me. But even if I got the 36mm hose I would still need a 36mm to 27mm adapter and those run $50. So I am the proud owner of a second hand CT-26 E... [smile] with my OF-1400 sitting on top.
So my list was:
-Worktable:
-Router:
-Vacuum:
-Track Saw: TS-55 or TS-75
-Miter Saw: Kapex
-Something to put the miter saw on
I went to my local dealer to check out the Kapex and the Dewalt 12" sliding compound miter saw in my own personal head-to-head shootout. The precision of the Kapex just won me over. It is a scalpel compared to the Dewalt cleaver. Then one of the sales guys told me that they are going to have a 10% sale of the Kapex and accessories in February so that settled it. The next purchase is a Kapex...... in February. As far as where to mount it I am still thinking about the MFT/3 Kapex especially because with 2 regular MFT/3's you could have one on each side to use as feed area when you need it essentially creating a temporary miter station. But someone mentioned that the regular MFT/3 don't work very well as feed/support platforms next to the Kapex. If anyone is using this configuration let me know. The other option that I think looks amazing is this Dewalt miter Stand (DWX725B I think) painted in Festool green by Grasshopper. It looks great! And costs only $107 + paint (by the way if anyone know the paint brand and color let me know)
Grasshopper said:Thought I'd share my Dewalt stand supporting my Kapex.
Dan Clark said:
Thanks Dan! And thank you everyone again for your advice. I love this forum it really helps when you are just getting into carpentry and Festool.
I have not had time to read all of the replies. I See you have gotten the CT 26. I would still get a cyclone of some sort. I have a CT 33 that stays in my shop. A ct 22 that gets moved into house rooms on Occasion. I find I only need to check the CT occasionally when I notice the suction diminishing and that seems to take a very long time. Before getting the Rockler Dust Rite, it seemed to be every couple of weeks and i would be replacing the bag. I eventually got the Rockler DR and that captures all of the dust and debris from my saws and routers. sawdust from my sanders does find its way into the CT, but I can clean the HEPA filter many times before the bag gets even close to full. If I move the CT 22 upstairs, I don't bother taking the DR as when I got the 22, I got a package of extra bags for it, planning to do the same for the CT33. In a couple of years, I have only emptied the 33 a couple of times while emptying the Dust Rite a couple of times each winter. I use the contents of the DR to sand my driveway. The dust in the CT bag goes into the woods.
I went the ATF 55 and recently upgraded to TS55REQ. If I need a larger saw for such use as you mention, I would still use the TS 55 and for hardwoods, I would make two cuts for 2" lumber. I have only needed ext rat depth for the 55 cut a couple of times. I go as deep as possible and then finish off with a handsaw. How often will you expect to be cutting into a beam. On an old house, I suspect you need to think long and hard before removing or cutting into a beam. In my experience (In construction for 40 years+/-, mostly as mason but worked with carpenters often during slow periods of winter. Mostly on remodeling jobs) A beam was seldom cut in place. If it was, there was quite a bit of setup prep before the cut. A Sawzall was often the choice as it was safer. If a circular saw was used, and cut needed accuracy, a good circular saw was used. I have tried making cuts on 6x6 with my ATF 55 free hand, but it is clumsy and difficult to follow the one without using the guide rail. I have still have my old Milwaukee 7-1/2" circular saw that cuts a little deeper than the ATF and I can still cut quite accurately when needed. While i working as mason contractor, I often used my 8-1/4" circular saw for cutting beams. I thing that probably compared in depth of cut to the TS 75. It was just as easy to make accurate cuts as with the 7-1/2" saw. For the few times you would want a saw larger than your TS 55, I think you would find a good quality 7-1/2" or 8-1/4" circular saw would be adequate. You could buy quite a few green & blue toys with the difference in cost between a TS 75 and a good circular saw in lesser brand (my choice was always Milwaukee, but there are othe brands that are probably just as good. My 7-1/2 is over 50 years old, maybe even 60. My 8-1/4 was over thirty when I got tired of using it for cutting everything from concrete, bricks, blocks, stone, lumber with cement and full of nails, plaster walls (those were real plaster, not dry wall). i did not really get tired of using, it just caught fire one day. In thirty years of evry day use, that saw took every type of abuse possible with never needing a repair. Upon occasion, and accurate cut had to be made and a best blade was installed for one or two cuts. If I had to use a larger saw than my 7-1/2" today and it had to be accurate, I would either go with my jig saw or pick up a Milwaukee or DW circular saw instead of the TS 75. The 75 would get used no more often than a larger circular saw in another brand. it is probably a little more difficult to make an accurate cut, but it is doable.
Tinker
I went the ATF 55 and recently upgraded to TS55REQ. If I need a larger saw for such use as you mention, I would still use the TS 55 and for hardwoods, I would make two cuts for 2" lumber. I have only needed ext rat depth for the 55 cut a couple of times. I go as deep as possible and then finish off with a handsaw. How often will you expect to be cutting into a beam. On an old house, I suspect you need to think long and hard before removing or cutting into a beam. In my experience (In construction for 40 years+/-, mostly as mason but worked with carpenters often during slow periods of winter. Mostly on remodeling jobs) A beam was seldom cut in place. If it was, there was quite a bit of setup prep before the cut. A Sawzall was often the choice as it was safer. If a circular saw was used, and cut needed accuracy, a good circular saw was used. I have tried making cuts on 6x6 with my ATF 55 free hand, but it is clumsy and difficult to follow the one without using the guide rail. I have still have my old Milwaukee 7-1/2" circular saw that cuts a little deeper than the ATF and I can still cut quite accurately when needed. While i working as mason contractor, I often used my 8-1/4" circular saw for cutting beams. I thing that probably compared in depth of cut to the TS 75. It was just as easy to make accurate cuts as with the 7-1/2" saw. For the few times you would want a saw larger than your TS 55, I think you would find a good quality 7-1/2" or 8-1/4" circular saw would be adequate. You could buy quite a few green & blue toys with the difference in cost between a TS 75 and a good circular saw in lesser brand (my choice was always Milwaukee, but there are othe brands that are probably just as good. My 7-1/2 is over 50 years old, maybe even 60. My 8-1/4 was over thirty when I got tired of using it for cutting everything from concrete, bricks, blocks, stone, lumber with cement and full of nails, plaster walls (those were real plaster, not dry wall). i did not really get tired of using, it just caught fire one day. In thirty years of evry day use, that saw took every type of abuse possible with never needing a repair. Upon occasion, and accurate cut had to be made and a best blade was installed for one or two cuts. If I had to use a larger saw than my 7-1/2" today and it had to be accurate, I would either go with my jig saw or pick up a Milwaukee or DW circular saw instead of the TS 75. The 75 would get used no more often than a larger circular saw in another brand. it is probably a little more difficult to make an accurate cut, but it is doable.
Tinker
Sparktrician
Member
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- Dec 4, 2009
- Messages
- 4,606
schtumpig said:
Try Benjamin Moore 3B P-702, 2031-30, Sweet Pea.
Then one of the sales guys told me that they are going to have a 10% sale of the Kapex and accessories in February so that settled it.
[/quote]
Is this a confirmed nationwide promotion through Festool??? If so I know what I'm doing in February. [smile]
[/quote]
Is this a confirmed nationwide promotion through Festool??? If so I know what I'm doing in February. [smile]
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2007
- Messages
- 13,126
Potts17 said:
Is this a confirmed nationwide promotion through Festool??? If so I know what I'm doing in February. [smile]
[/quote]
If so, nothing has been publicly announced yet. But then Festool is usually tight-lipped about future promotions.
Peter
schtumpig
Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 43
I read you post carefully and I agree with the idea that some work requires additional tools. The main beams in the basement are 12" square so the TS-75 would be the wrong tool. I went and looked at the TS-55 and TS-75 and basically the TS-55 can do a -1 degree bevel and cost $110 less. The TS-75 can cut 20mm deeper. It becomes kind of a chicken and the egg argument after a while. I am waiting until after I buy the Kapex so there is no rush. The main reason I would NOT buy the TS-75 is if the cut quality or accuracy was less than the TS-55. If anyone has used both and can comment to accuracy or finished cut quality given they were both set up properly then let me know.Tinker said:
As far as the 10% off that is what I was told but what do I know (not much). The guy could have been out late last night partying after OHIO STATE WON THE NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP! [big grin] (sorry couldn't help myself [embarassed]) but I hope it is true. He said something about a 10% domino sale last year and this was the sale for this year. It makes sense to me as a consumer, this tool spotlight sale is a great way to get those people who are on the fence like me to buy into the Festool system by featuring a great flagship tool each year.
I am leaning more and more toward mounting the Kapex on the Dewalt stand and painting it Festool green (thanks for the color Sparktrician [smile]). I like the MFT/3 Kapex but it doesn't really feel like it integrates with the Festool system in as useful a way as I would hope. It would be nice if the stand was height adjustable so you could raise it up to extend the work surface of you standard MFT/3. If the Kapex is basically going to live on it then maybe I should put it on something cheaper with an integrated expandable fence like the Dewalt stand. I was looking at the FastCap 'Best fence' combined with a Dewalt stand or the Multiblades Kapex saw-helper bracket to make my own fence. I will start with the Kapex in February and go from there.
I have both the 55 and 75. I had the 55 first but it did not like cutting 3/8" polycarbonate so I bought the 75 also. I use the 55 mostly on my MFT and the 75 on a 64" X 99" MFT I built for sheet goods... ply, polycarbonate, acrylics, ABS, and acrylics.
